Travel

From Whale Watching to Camel Riding: 5 Things to Do in a Weekend at Port Stephens

The perfect combo.

things to do port stephens
Photo: Supplied

For years and years, most of my childhood holidays were spent in Port Stephens. Just 2.5 hours’ drive north of Sydney, it’s close enough to travel to with children but far enough to feel like you’re on a real trip away. The perfect combo. For the first few weeks of the year, we would spend our days in the pool, on the beach or out fishing. In the evenings, we could usually be found at Nelson Bay’s d’Albora Marina, having dinner and taking in the sunset along the water.

It was a wonderful place to holiday as a child, which unsurprisingly makes it a popular destination for Sydney families, and one I’ve been keen to revisit as an adult. With endless ideas for what I could do and limited time (like most working adults) to do them in, I decided to re-explore Port Stephens with my husband in a weekend away. Here’s exactly what we did:

Stay at The Anchorage

things to do port stephens
Photo: Supplied

If I said much of my time prior to our weekend away wasn’t spent on Instagram looking at pictures of The Anchorage, it would be a lie. After a fair bit of scrolling, it was the accommodation I decided I was most keen on experiencing. And it was just as beautiful in real life. Sitting on the waterfront of a marina, with Corlette Beach just a short walk away, looking out the window feels like you’re in a postcard.

On arrival, we enjoyed a glass of bubbles and took in the view from Moby’s Bar. The best way to knock off on a Friday afternoon. In the evening, we returned for a few cocktails (during Happy Hour, of course) and some pizzas for dinner. Moby’s Bar is casual and relaxed as well as home to an extensive collection of whiskies that my husband was more than happy to explore.

Go Whale Watching

things to do port stephens
Photo: Supplied

The following morning, we took a short drive to Wharf 1 of the Cruise Passenger Terminal in Nelson Bay for a whale watching boat trip. With May being the beginning of the whale watching season, we were keen to see some humpback whales, with more than 30,000 of them passing the Port Stephens coastline as they migrate from Antarctica to the warmer waters of the Pacific. There are so many whales that pass-through Port Stephens; the migration path is nicknamed ‘humpback highway’.

According to our skipper, humpback whales are some of the most playful whales in the world, and we were lucky enough to see this behaviour on full display. We saw lots of tail slaps — when the whale’s tail comes out of the water and slaps the surface, pectoral slaps — when the pectoral fin comes out of the water and slaps the surface, as well as a breach right in front of me — when the whale propelled its body out of the water.

Take a Drive to Gan Gan Lookout

things to do port stephens
Photo: Supplied

Back on land, we decided to go for a drive to see some of the sights and being behind the wheel of the Mazda CX-5 GT SP is an experience in itself. As a leading medium SUV, it’s really spacious and comfortable and made our road trip a breeze while we explored the outdoors. The interior is sleek and stylish, while the Apple CarPlay made it easy to sync my iPhone and get around.

Driving up the winding path to Gan Gan Lookout, the sunroof meant we could take in all the details from every angle, making the car great for adventure. At a height of 160 metres, Gan Gan Hill is the highest lookout in Port Stephens with incredible views, but you really are spoiled for choice when it comes to options for other amazing viewpoints you can visit that are only a short distance away too.

Have a Camel Ride at Sunset

things to do port stephens
Photo: Supplied

Yes, you read that right; I said camels at sunset. Just a short drive away at Anna Bay, you can take a camel ride trekking into the higher sand dunes and returning along the water’s edge on the scenic Birubi Beach. I have to say this was the highlight of our weekend away because a.) camels are really cute, and b.) it was lots of fun.

My camel’s name was DJ while my husband had Pete, who was apparently the fastest of all of the 10 or so camels (which is good information to have if you’re in need of a quick escape.) If you’re not so much of a camel person, doing it for the stunning sunset views is worth it alone. Though I can say driving the Mazda is a much smoother ride than a camel.

Eat at the Little Beach Boathouse

things to do port stephens
Photo: Supplied

Dinner at the Little Beach Boathouse was really a treat. Located on the old Little Beach Marina in Nelson Bay, not only does it have incredible views but it also has some of the best fresh local produce on the menu.

For entrée, we decided on the grilled half-shell scallops with cauliflower puree, pomegranate and crushed walnuts and the black mussels with coconut laksa sauce, fresh chilli, coriander and sourdough. You really can’t go past the local seafood; it was delicious. Having seafood for entrée, we decided on a twice-cooked pork belly in creamy herbed polenta, bacon, brussel sprouts and red wine jus for the main, which was also mouth-watering.

The service was impeccable, and the staff were very attentive, even noting our names throughout ordering and checking on us multiple times throughout our meal. It was the perfect way to end a really special weekend away.

Valentina Todoroska road-tested the Mazda CX-5 GT SP as a guest of Mazda. For more information, visit the Mazda website.

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Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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