Travel

Escape to This Hidden Forest Town in the Lost Sierra

The national forest you don't know is a stunning weekend getaway from the San Francisco Bay Area for swimming, hiking, boating, beer, and golf.

Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist

Mental maps are funny things, the way we warp and scrunch actual geography in our heads to fit the familiar into place. A six-hour drive you know can feel shorter than a four-hour drive you don’t, and a friend moving to a new neighborhood forces you to reorder your thinking about the entire city. Most Californians have an idea of where Lake Tahoe is, can picture the sparkling waters southwest of Reno in the summer, or know the winding drive from Truckee to the snowy slopes in winter. But many of us have a blank space in the other direction, northwest out of Truckee. That is Plumas National Forest, part of the aptly-named Lost Sierra, a hidden NorCal escape that makes a perfect weekend getaway.

The town of Quincy is the seat of Plumas County, a quaint former gold rush town that was originally founded in 1852. It doesn’t look like the set of a Western or a corny ghost town, but you can feel its Old West roots. Main Street runs for about five blocks, with a narrow row of businesses ringed by pines and forested mountains looming all around. It’s quiet and charming, the perfect home base for adventures in the surrounding forest. Here are some of our favorite things to do on a weekend getaway to Quincy and the Plumas National Forest in the Lost Sierra.

Travel time:

4 hours from San Francisco

Flickr/Don Debold
Flickr/Don Debold
Flickr/Don Debold

If you don’t do anything else: Go extreme on a low-key lake

Everyone knows about the watersports at Tahoe, but Plumas National Forest has its answer in Lake Almanor, one of the largest manufactured lakes in the state and one of the few large bodies of water where the water is shockingly warm. If you’re a terrestrial creature, there’s the Lake Almanor Trail, a 12-mile path for hiking and biking that runs around much of the shoreline, but it’s also a pretty spectacular lake for watersports. Rent jet skis, pontoons, or ski boats from Major’s Outpost on the West shore of the lake for high-speed action. All their ski boat rentals come with tow ropes, skis, tubes, and life vests. If you’re looking for something a little slower-paced, Knotty Pines Resort and Marina on the North side of the lake rents kayaks, canoes, paddle boats, and fishing boats. That last one is particularly noteworthy-Almanor is an excellent lake for fishing.

Fill your days:

Outdoor activities in Quincy

Quincy is close enough to the famed Pacific Crest Trail that some hotels in town have explicitly banned PCT hikers from staying there, presumably in fear of their dirty, trail-beaten boots and clothing. It’s about a 20-minute drive west out of town to find the PCT, and it makes for a fun excursion to hit the nearby sections. There are also tons of other popular hikes, such as Spanish Ridge for a reasonably challenging hilly hike to the north or Greenhorn Creek for a more chill and flat stroll on a logging road along a babbling creek.

Flickr/Tony Zuliani
Flickr/Tony Zuliani
Flickr/Tony Zuliani

The old saw may be that golf is a great walk spoiled, but here you can flip it on its head-in Quincy, golf is a perfect excuse to take a great nature walk. It’s hard to beat the gorgeous setting of the dozen or so golf courses scattered around Plumas National Forest. Among others are Bailey Creek by Lake Almanor; Grizzly Ranch, Whitehawk Ranch, Plumas PinesGraeagle Meadows, and The Dragon at Nakoma Ranch to the south towards Reno; and Mt. Huff right near town. Each boasts pine forests, mountain views, and crisp fresh air.

If you want to keep those chill vibes going, you can take that slow pace right out onto the water with some river tubing. Plumas National Forest has an extensive network of interconnected lakes and rivers that are great for a float. From Quincy, you can head a few minutes west to Buck’s Lake, where several campgrounds, hotels, day-use parks, and boat launches exist. You can float around in the lake itself or in Buck’s Creek, Haskins Creek, or Mill Creek nearby. Out of Quincy to the south, the Middle Fork of the Feather River has lovely swimming holes, fishing, and tubing, especially near the collection of cabins and campsites called Camp Layman.

Eat, drink, and sleep:

Restaurants and bars in Quincy

All those outdoor adventures mean you’ll need some serious fuel. There aren’t many restaurants in Quincy, and the ones there tend to close early or keep odd hours. But breakfast is where the town shines, and Patti’s Morning Thunder Cafe is the place to be before noon. The wood-paneled outside screams vintage roadside diner, and the interior is its match, chaotic and fun, a jumbled aesthetic with more wood on the walls and tons of old photos, seasonal decorations that sometimes stay up a little long, wine-mom style coffee signs, and even an antique fireplace. The menu is full of perfect California diner classics, such as omelets, pancakes, sandwiches, and the requisite breakfast burrito, huevos rancheros, tostadas, and a pretty wild stuffed avocado salad.

Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist

And Quincy’s Main Street does have a few bars, but none so fun and unexpected as the tasting room at Quintopia Brewing-because it’s also the home of the West End Theatre and dramaworks, Quincy’s very own community arts organization and black box theater. The brewery serves as its lobby, and it also feels like a living room for local artists. On any given night, actors are hanging out and laughing over pints, and on weekends, it means you may find the bar relatively quiet… until intermission hits and the audience filters out to chug a beer and get a refill to bring back in for the second act.

If that isn’t a draw on its own, Quintopia’s beers are damn good. The menu is familiar, with beers that run the gamut from light and crisp like Kiandra Kolsch through the usual series of well-balanced IPAs and on into a full-bodied pub ale and a solid stout. Unlike many craft breweries, though, the beers tend to stay on the lower ABV end of the spectrum, with only the occasional beer cracking 7%, a refreshing perspective. Food is eclectic and much better than it has to be, from pub standards, such as the Hot Pretzels and Loaded Fries, to a Falafel Wrap, Chili-Lime Pork Salad, and a surprisingly great Cold Noodle Bowl.

Where to stay in Quincy

There are a ton of good options for lodging in Quincy and the area in general, from hotels and rentable condos near the aforementioned golf courses to cabins and campsites dotted throughout the forest. But there’s a lot to be said for staying right in town, close to what counts as the center of the action around here. And it’s hard to get more central than the Feather Bed Inn, a charming and historic family-owned inn in the middle of town. The Queen Anne-style inn was originally built as a family home in 1893 and has since been converted to five guest rooms upstairs with two cottages below. It’s comfortable, quaint, and makes an excellent base for adventure as it’s the kind of place you’ll be excited to return to when you’re exhausted from a long day in the woods.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Ben Mesirow is a Staff Writer at Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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