Travel

Big Waves, Cheap Beer and Hippie Culture Make This San Diego Suburb Worthy of a Road Trip

Come for the beaches, stay for the beer.

Design by Grace Han for Thrillist
Design by Grace Han for Thrillist
Design by Grace Han for Thrillist

Encinitas is the perfect Southern California surf town, maybe the perfect surf town anywhere-conversations are peppered with surf reports, shops sell sandwiches and burritos named after local waves, long and short boards spill from garages and bob on the heads of the hardcore out for dawn patrol. But unlike the snooty oceanfront McMansionvilles to the north or the frat-bro beach communities to the south, Encinitas has a hipper, more laid back vibe, like your cool older cousin who drives a convertible and took you on your first trip to Tijuana.

Originally home to the Kumeyaay, Europeans first arrived in the area in 1769, when Gaspar de Portolá, governor of Baja California, visited the area and named it Los Encinos after the oak forests lining the valley. In 1842, following Mexican Independence, a large plot of this land was granted to Andres Ybarra in what is now New Encinitas and Olivenhain. Later, in 1881, John Pitcher and Tom Rattan founded the town of Old Encinitas.

Photo by Karin Keller
Photo by Karin Keller
Photo by Karin Keller

For the next half century or so, Encinitas remained a sleepy collection of rural communities known mostly for its flower industry. During Prohibition, it became a popular stop for Angelenos heading across the border to Tijuana in search of legal booze. With the opening of the Del Mar Racetrack in 1937, celebrities like Sammy Davis Jr. and Bing Crosby became regular visitors, awarding Encinitas the cool factor it still enjoys today.

Curiously, what we now know as the city of Encinitas didn’t exist until 1986, when the communities of Cardiff-by-the-Sea, Leucadia, New Encinitas, Old Encinitas and Olivenhain voted to incorporate. While the five neighbourhoods comprising Encinitas have one governing body, each has maintained a unique identity and character.

Photo courtesy of Moonlight Beach Encinitas
Photo courtesy of Moonlight Beach Encinitas
Photo courtesy of Moonlight Beach Encinitas

Old Encinitas

Old Encinitas is the historical heart of the city and home to two of its most popular beaches. Moonlight State Beach is the all-around best for a family-friendly, all-day beach session. It’s good for beginner-to-intermediate surfers and boasts an array of amenities including ADA accessibility, a full-time lifeguard, a kiddie playground, fire rings, picnic tables, volleyball and tennis courts, a snack bar, and a large grassy area for spreading out. Swami’s Beach, named after one of the fathers of modern yoga and referenced in the Beach Boys’ classic Surfin’ USA, enjoys world-wide acclaim for its outstanding right point break and numerous lively beach and reef breaks. It also has conveniences like restrooms, a water fountain, picnic tables, and benches scattered around Swami Park, plus free parking in the lot and along Highway 101. Refuel from your surfing session with manhole-sized pancakes at Potato Shack Cafe (cash only, ATM on site), Lotus Cafe and Juice Bar’s healthy, hearty all-day breakfasts or Tijuana-style tacos, paletas, imported beer, and freshly prepared churros at The Taco Stand.

Away from the beach, Old Encinitas maintains the Encinitas Historical Society, where you can chat with well-versed docents or peruse photographs and documents, oral histories, and exhibits, all housed in an 1883 one-room schoolhouse. They also host guided walking tours at 10 am every third Saturday from September through July. Other historical sites include the San Dieguito Heritage Museum, La Paloma Theatre (where “talkies” were first introduced to Southern California in 1927 and you can still see a show today), and the SS Encinitas and SS Moonlight boathouses.

When happy hour rolls around, head to the Highway 101 corridor, where you’ll find options like Culture Brewing’s hazys, seltzers, and sours or Modern Times Far West Lounge for 30 taps of tasty beer and plant-based cuisine. Blue Ribbon Artisan Pizza delivers wood-fired pizzas and a killer butterscotch pudding, while Buona Forchetta dishes upscale Northern Italian entrees, including vegan options.

Photo courtesy of  Californiabeaches.com
Photo courtesy of Californiabeaches.com
Photo courtesy of Californiabeaches.com

Leucadia

“Keep Leucadia Funky” might sound like a PR campaign slogan, but it sums up the free-spirited, groovy vibe that embodies life in the northernmost neighbourhood of Encinitas. Founded in 1870 by a group of English spiritualists in search of religious freedom, Leucadia is home to hippies, bohos, surfer dudes, and artists of all persuasions.

The three main beaches in Leucadia are accessed via three stairways leading down from Neptune Avenue and offer no amenities, permanent lifeguards or restrooms. Grandview Beach, a narrow strip of sand below the cliffs, has swells for just about every ability and board length and tends to get crowded on weekends. Beacon’s Beach (officially South Leucadia State Beach) has long, slow beginner-friendly waves that can still be fun for more experienced surfers. Stone Steps Beach’s wave quality can be unpredictable, but when it’s good, it’s a blast, and it’s never crowded. Warm up afterwards with coffee and an excellent pastry at Pannikin, located in the historic Santa Fe railroad station, or grab a dozen raised and glazed beauties at Leucadia Donut Shoppe, a neighbourhood institution for more than 30 years.

True to its nature, downtown Leucadia is overwhelmingly locally owned, with an eclectic mix of surf and coffee shops, art galleries, clothing and beachwear boutiques mixed in with hipster and hippie cafes.

Head to Regal Seagull for more than two dozen taps of craft beer and killer artisan sausages, plus happy hour and adult happy meal deals on weekdays, or Saint Archer Brewing Company’s huge tasting room with 30 taps of signature core and specialty brews, plus cans, crowlers, and bombers to go. Solterra Winery produces wines using grapes sourced from Northern California all the way to Baja California, Mexico and serves rustic Mediterranean cuisine with a touch of California influence.

Photo courtesy of californiabeaches.com
Photo courtesy of californiabeaches.com
Photo courtesy of californiabeaches.com

Cardiff-by-the-Sea

Cardiff-by-the-Sea was originally farmland settled after the Mission Era, when Hector MacKinnon and his wife, Sarah, moved to the area to grow grain and raise livestock in 1875. Purchased in 1910 by Boston painter J. Frank Cullen, who began selling parcels of land to settlers from the east, it’s thought that the neighbourhood’s name came from his wife’s hometown of Cardiff, Wales.

A great way to experience the Cardiff surf scene is to camp at San Elijo State Beach, which has laundry facilities, dock access, Wi-Fi, bathrooms with showers, fire rings, a bilge pump station, a ranger station, and is easy walking distance to Cardiff Towne Center for early morning coffee. South of the campgrounds is Cardiff State Beach, home to Cardiff Reef with its right and left breaks and groups of snazzy longboarders, while about 50 yards north of the main reef is Suckouts, where the shelf break and quick dropoff are better suited to experienced surfers. At low tide, seek out the tidepools just south of the parking lot. Afterwards, hit up VG Donut & Bakery, a third-generation Cardiff favourite that makes fresh doughnuts twice a day, at 4 am and 4 pm.

The San Elijo Lagoon Ecological Reserve and Nature Center is a 979-acre shallow-water estuary, formed where the Escondido and La Orilla Creeks meet the Pacific Ocean. Seven miles of easy-to-moderate trails and the moderate-to-strenuous Annie’s Canyon Trail traverse wetland habitats of coastal strand, salt marsh, freshwater/brackish marsh, riparian scrub, coastal sage scrub, and mixed chaparral. Stop at the Nature Center to learn more about the reserve and plan your hike.

After your adventures, relax at The Confessional in The Lost Abbey with Belgian ales, saisons, and sours in a breezy, BYO food-friendly tasting room, then head to Restaurant Row for ocean-view dining and organic, homestyle cooking at Ki’s Restaurant, or Cardiff Beach Bar @Tower 13 for craft cocktails and shared plates.

Photo courtesy of The Craftsman New American Tavern
Photo courtesy of The Craftsman New American Tavern
Photo courtesy of The Craftsman New American Tavern

New Encinitas

New Encinitas was originally part of the land grant Rancho de Los Encinitos, and later Las Encinitas Rancho, which was primarily a produce and flower growing area that includes a section of the famous Ecke Ranch, where Paul Ecke developed and marketed poinsettias so successfully that the flower became a symbol of Christmas. Now, those orchards and flower fields have given way to housing developments and shopping plazas typical of modern suburban areas. This is where you want to head when you need supplies for a day at the beach or if the propane tank suddenly runs out.

Once you’ve loaded up on provisions, head to The Brewers Tap Room for 25 rotating taps of local craft beer, then hit The Craftsman New American Tavern for comfort food like baked mac and cheese, buttermilk fried chicken, and bacon-wrapped meatloaf. Don’t leave the neighbourhood without a visit to Elizabethan Desserts, a sweet ‘50s style bake shop with exquisite cupcakes, cookies, bars, and sweet and savoury pies, including a take-and-bake Thanksgiving pie stuffed with roasted turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, green beans, stuffing, and a side of cranberry chipotle sauce, under a buttery, flaky crust.

Wikimedia Commons/Zackstarr
Wikimedia Commons/Zackstarr
Wikimedia Commons/Zackstarr

Olivenhain

Like New Encinitas, Olivenhain was part of Rancho de Los Encinitos, then Rancho Las Encinitas. By the early 1880s, the rancho had changed hands a number of times before the Kimball brothers became owners and sought to form a colony of European immigrants to settle the area. They found a like-minded interest in Theodore Pinther, and in May 1884 the first colonists arrived-their only requirement being that they spoke German fluently.

Olivenhain has remained a semi-rural residential area with gently rolling hills and custom homes on expansive lots, but few restaurants or shops. It enjoys a large network of hiking and equestrian trails, including a portion of the San Elijo Lagoon Ecological Reserve and Nature Center and Manchester Preserve. Plan a night drive to the area for outstanding stargazing, the result of Olivenhain’s Dark Skies Policy, which restricts nighttime outdoor lighting to reduce light pollution.

Mary Beth Abate is a San Diego-based freelance writer by way of Chicago and Los Angeles. Her hobbies include yoga, pickling and fermenting stuff, reading cookbooks and drinking fabulous gin. Keep up with her experiments @MaryBeth_Abate.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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