If the word “suburb” conjures up images of gated communities with manicured lawns and a Costco that’s close, but not close enough, Oceanside, California is not that. There’s a Costco in nearby Vista, but that’s pretty much where the similarity ends. The northernmost suburb of San Diego had, for years, barely been a blip on the road from Los Angeles to San Diego, with a downtown area that could politely be described as “unsavoury.”
“Nobody wanted to go downtown,” says Kim Heim, Director of Special Projects for MainStreet Oceanside, whose mission is to attract new, pedestrian-friendly activities and businesses to Oceanside’s downtown. “Bar brawls were fairly commonplace, and the fights didn’t always end at the sidewalk,” Heim continues. “It scared people, and locals weren’t going to come downtown for dinner.”
That sentiment is echoed by Harrison Dwelley, co-owner of Beach Break Cafe in South Oceanside. “I was born in Oceanside and grew up here. There’s a photo of Gary Blair, my business partner and me when we were in Little League on the back wall. I’ve seen the changes. Downtown Oceanside was definitely pretty sketchy not so long ago. But this is one of the last undeveloped beach towns in Southern California. It’s beautiful, and it was just a matter of time before the big hotels came.”
No one is knocking the arrival of the beachside hotels, though. Tourism in Oceanside was enjoying record growth pre-COVID-19, and with travel restrictions eased, there’s plenty of pent-up demand for sun and fun getaways. Oceanside’s proximity to both Los Angeles and San Diego make it a perfect day trip or long weekend jaunt.
Dwelley takes the changes in stride. “Tourism is a bigger piece of Oceanside’s economy now, and that means people are more willing to make the investment in new businesses. A lot of former military members stay in Oceanside; they want to be part of the community, to raise their family here.”
“But even with all the growth, Oceanside is still Oceanside,” Dwelley continues. “We like it that way and we’re working to keep that local feel. So far, we’ve been successful.”
How to get there
Oceanside is easy to get to by car from either Los Angeles or San Diego-Interstate 5 or Highway 101 are the most popular routes, with CA-76 and CA-78 also running through the city. By train, take Amtrak’s Pacific Surfliner from Santa Barbara or the Metrolink from LA, Orange County, San Bernardino and Riverside. From San Diego, hop on the Coaster or take the Sprinter from Escondido.
Hit the beach
It’s not called Oceanside for nothing-the city enjoys near-perfect weather and what the Encyclopedia of Surfing calls “one of Southern California’s most consistent surf spots” along its nearly four miles of coastline. The most popular beach is easily accessible on foot with a walk down Pier View Way, through a short tunnel under the railroad tracks, and straight to the Oceanside Pier, the longest wooden over-water pier on the West Coast. The most popular surfing spots are here, at Oceanside Pier View South Beach and Oceanside Pier View North Beach, which have consistently solid waves and can get crowded during good conditions. It’s also popular with non-surfers for its wide swaths of sand and proximity to restaurants and shopping. Check out nearby Wheel Fun Rentals for cruiser bikes, tandems, single and double surreys, quad sports and beach choppers to rent by the hour, half-day, and full day.
Oceanside has a total of nine named beaches that range from expansive to petite, some of which require a little foresight and may disappear completely at high tide. Keep this in mind before you decide to wander off and leave your stuff on the sand. Oceanside Harbor is a mecca for water activities of all kinds-you’ll find deep sea fishing, whale watching, and sunset cocktail cruises here, as well as a fuel dock, launch ramp, bait receiver, and slip rentals available for those visiting by sea. It’s also a smooth, quiet place for stand up paddleboarding and kayaking, as well as having its own beaches and great surfing conditions. You can easily rent SUPs, kayaks, jet skis, electric boats, and power boats for use in the harbour at Boat Rentals of America. Grab a bite to eat or do some shopping at Harbor Village, and check out the Insta-worthy Oceanside sign, which welcomes visitors to the harbour.
You’ll need plenty of energy to do all the fun things on your itinerary, and Oceanside’s burgeoning culinary scene has a plethora of new and OG local favourites. From stacks of buttery pancakes in the morning to vegan sushi at night, you’ll find a wide range of choices to satisfy your cravings. Some of our favourites include:
Start your day at Beach Break Cafe, South Oceanside’s wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot, where your coffee cup is always full and the plates of food are always enormous. Do not sleep on the coffee cake, a buttery, warm slice loaded with crunchy, cinnamony streusel that comes as a side with most dishes, but you really should get an extra piece to go. Corned beef hash fans will love the big chunks of meat and potatoes under perfectly cooked eggs, but there’s also a case to be made for Banana Crunch French Toast, starring thick, custardy wedges piled high with sliced bananas and mounds of whipped cream. Lunchtime selections run the gamut from hearty sandwiches and salads to tacos and burritos.
The brainchild of Jen Byard, Communal offers a full craft coffee and drink menu, seasonal food dishes, fresh flowers, and curated goods in an inspired space that fosters community and creative thinking. The anchor of Tremont Collective, a community of like-minded businesses, it has a private patio, designated flower shop, and a home decor shop next door dubbed “The Annex.” Menu items include bagels, breakfast sandwiches, bowls, and latte flights, plus a toast bar, pizzettas, salads, and entrees, with craft cocktails and beer and wine by the glass.
The chic ambiance and diverse menu aren’t the only things to love about The Plot. It’s also the city’s only zero-waste restaurant, where more than 99% of the produce and dry goods are utilized, as compared with a 4–10% industry average. Even the stems from romaine lettuce aren’t wasted-owners Davin and Jessica Waite’s rescue tortoise, Winston Churchill, takes care of those. Plant-based proteins are made nearly exclusively in-house (the exception is their organic tofu from San Diego Soy Dairy), including an imitation crӓb using San Diego’s Mindful Mushroom‘s lion’s mane mushrooms. Standouts include the customer favourite Chronic, a tempura fried roll stuffed with crӓb, spicy tüna, and avocado, drizzled with sweet and spicy citrus and mäyo; Chickën and Waffles, made with “maple love”; and rib-sticking Shepherd’s Pie.
Just about a block away from The Plot is the Waite’s sister restaurant, Wrench & Rodent Seabasstropub, where Chef Davin crafts cutting-edge dishes that often utilize lesser known fish species and kitchen garden ingredients; you might find a scattering of nasturtium petals or a mint stem sauce under your impeccably prepared sea bream. Dry-aged fish, a more recent innovation, and a vegan omakase menu are available, and there’s a handful of daily specials to choose from as well.
Childhood friends Charlie Anderson and Jamey Stone grew up together in Oceanside and dreamed of one day opening a pizza joint in their hometown. Sometimes dreams do come true, and that includes dreams of chewy, crispy coal-fired crust, topped with fresh, local ingredients. Their signature dish, The Privateer Pie, may raise an eyebrow with its chicken breast and walnut pesto topping, as does The Captain Fin Pie, slathered in white sauce, provolone, potatoes, bacon, and black pepper, but trust us, they work deliciously. Traditional combos like Brixton Pie, with tomato sauce, Grana Padano, and pepperoni gets a tweak of fresh lemon zest ricotta, while Raen Pie combines white sauce, provolone, fior di latte, prosciutto di Parma, arugula, and black pepper. The extensive wine list is one of the largest in North County.
A Balinese-inspired fusion menu that perfectly complements the exhilarating cocktail menu is the draw at Dija Mara. Dishes like Beef Short Rib or Tofu Pendang play flavorfully against signature drinks like Cardinal Sin, featuring Dija’s house-spiced fermented rum, or the earthiness of the beetroot-infused wine-based gin in Beets by Bali. They also have Oceanside’s only all-natural wine program, featuring domestic and international bottles not often seen on SoCal wine lists. Check them out on Sundays for sparkling brunchtails and local faves like Dija Hangover burritos and Kaya French Toast.
Eat your way around the world at The Sunset Market
If at all possible, plan to visit on a Thursday, when Oceanside gathers together for the Oceanside Sunset Market, a celebration of food, music, and community. Now in its fifteenth year, the Sunset Market features more than 200 vendors over a four-block expanse and happens from 5-9 pm every Thursday except Thanksgiving and during inclement weather. There’s an international food court, a world market, live music, and Fresh and Ready Row, where you’ll find gourmet grab-and-go goodies.
If you love Thai food, The Pad Thai Stand is a must-visit-they make five different regional versions of the beloved noodle dish, including a standout Southern style that pops with vibrant spices and silky coconut milk, and all are made fresh when you order. Sabor Piri Piri Kitchen serves up Mozambique-inspired comfort food like Chicken Peanut Curry and Kale with Black-Eyed Peas in a coconut curry sauce over rice. There’s also classic fare like dogs, bbq, cajun and East Coast specialties and fried chicken, island favourites from Jamaica and Hawaii, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern delicacies, and Latin America is well-represented with diverse offerings from Venezuela, Mexico, El Salvador, Brazil, and Guatemala. There’s even a full street with nothing but desserts!
If this all seems overwhelming, make your first stop a visit to the MainStreet Oceanside tent, where Kim Heim and the crew will give you the lay of the land so you can narrow down your search. We recommend that you eat (or just buy) dessert first, especially if it’s something that will keep fairly well. Most people naturally visit the savoury side of the street first, then go hunting for a sweet finish, causing the lines at the dessert stands to get longer as the night goes on.
Travel the O’Side Sips Trail
Thirsty travellers will want to check out O’Side Sips, a free, web-based passport program that currently features 29 locations serving up local beers, cocktails and spirits, wine, coffee and tea, and juices. Scroll through the list of participating businesses and plot your route, take advantage of exclusive discounts, and check in at locations to accumulate points, redeemable for cool travel swag at the California Welcome Center Oceanside. Can’t miss stops on the trail include:
Bagby Beer Company has been an Oceanside favourite for nearly a decade. The brewery features a rotating cast of beers (if you happen to be there when the You’re The Best is on tap, get it), as well as a unique menu that features everything from Saucy Frites, a riff on classic poutine, to a Cheddar Smashburger, and Lomo Saltado, all of which can be made vegan on request. Not into beer? There’s also an impressive list of cocktails with handcrafted syrups and fresh juices, boozy slushies and equally thoughtful, buzz-free non-alcoholic libations.
Banana Dang Coffee features delicious coffee drinks, banana-based smoothies, sweet and savoury toasts and vegan pastries in a quirky, fun little gem of a shop. Doodle away in one of the available notebooks or pen a quick ode to your favourite things to do in O’side and your artwork might appear in their Doodle Gallery.
Head distiller Nicholas Hammond at Pacific Coast Spirits may have roots in winemaking, but he’s spent the better part of a decade learning the art of distilling from experts both stateside and in Mexico and Chile. Boasting an impressive list of spirits that includes a white rye, a single malt, American and London gins, and a pisco-style immature brandy, the 12,000-square-foot distillery includes a massive cocktail lounge and a farm-to-table kitchen that serves up shareable plates like Albacore Tuna Rolls, masa-fried Cauliflower Tacos, and a smashing Fried Chicken and Cheddar Biscuits combo.
If you’re spending more than a day in Oceanside, you’ve got plenty of options for accommodations. Brand new oceanfront hotels, The Seabird Resort and Mission Pacific Hotel, both Hyatt Hotels brands, are steps from the beach and Oceanside Pier. The Seabird is reminiscent of a classic beachfront resort, with three restaurants, a pool overlooking the Pacific Ocean, and a full service spa. Mission Pacific Hotel boasts a rooftop pool, three restaurants, including Valle from acclaimed chef Roberto Alcocer, and Oceanside’s first rooftop bar, aptly named The Rooftop Bar, also helmed by chef Alcocer. In the courtyard, you’ll find the historic Graves House, better known as the Top Gun House, which has been beautifully restored and houses The HIGH-Pie, with apple or cherry hand pies-on-a-stick that can be dipped in toppings like chocolate, sea salt caramel, and lemon curd, or filled a la mode-style.
A few blocks from the beach is a beauty of a boutique hotel called The Brick Hotel, built on the bones of an 1888 hardware store and showcasing the lovingly restored brick facade after which it’s named. Enjoy a cocktail at Frankie’s Cocktail Lounge, or visit the Stone Brewing Tap Room for some of San Diego’s favourite brews. Additional options for food and beverages are expected to open soon, including executive chef Quinnton Austin’s namesake Q&A Restaurant & Oyster Bar, serving chargrilled oysters and other NOLA-inspired eats (and eventually, a separate menu of food offerings to both Frankies and Stone Tap Room), Cococabana Rooftop Bar, and the return of the Succulent Cafe, a beloved coffee shop that’s lush with the current darling of the plant world.
The Green Room Hotel, just a bit down the road, offers the quintessential South O’side experience in the city’s newest boutique hotel. This funky little 1950’s motel underwent a major makeover, and now sports matte black walls accented by crisp white trim on the outside, and a boho-chic, minimalist interior. There are twelve individually curated rooms, including studios, one-bedroom suites, and a two-story, two-bedroom suite that’s ideal for families. Each has luxurious Tuft & Needle king or queen beds and premium Comphy bedding, contactless check in with Igloo home smart locks set to a unique entry code, and artwork by local artists. Some include mini kitchenettes with cute, retro-looking appliances, and an outdoor patio where you can relax with a glass of wine after a hard day at the beach. There’s also a cozy common area with comfy chairs, a fire pit, an outdoor shower, and an old school cedar hot tub, plus free access to foam core grab-and-go surfboards, boogie boards, and beach cruisers. Best of all, it’s next door to Municipal Taco & Mezcal, where you can score $2 tacos from 8:30 pm until closing Monday through Saturday, and just a couple of blocks from The Pour House, a cool dive bar that brings in live music several nights a week.
The Oceanside Museum of Art, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, is adjacent to the beautiful Oceanside Library and City Hall buildings at the corner of North Ditmar Street and Pier View Way. The galleries feature a rotation of exhibits-currently there’s six different presentations, including Shinpei Takeda: Limit Of Your Safe Space, an exploration of societal changes and interactions in the era of a global pandemic and military conflict, and James E. Watts: Storyteller, with whimsical sculptures from classic stories, fashioned out of repurposed metal cookie tins, lunch boxes, and other assorted metal objects with exquisitely carved alabaster accents.
Did you know that Benjamin Franklin invented the swim fin when he was just eleven years old? Even if you’re not a surfer, you’ll love the California Surf Museum, a few blocks down Pier View Way from the Oceanside Museum of Art. It was founded in 1986, and is dedicated to surf culture worldwide. For the best experience, let the encyclopedic docents guide you around the galleries, but it’s equally fascinating if you prefer a self-guided tour. A rotation of exhibits-currently there’s at least nine different presentations-take you through the history and culture of wave riding, including a tribute to renowned surfboard shaper Donald Takayama, and a delightfully nerdy Where’s The Surf? Find Swell Direction With Wave Science, featuring The Coastal Data Information Program‘s (CDIP) near real-time network of monitoring sites for waves and beaches across the US. You can also take a deep dive into the history of boogie boarding, explore a timeline of surfboard development, and be amazed by the most popular exhibit; Courageous Inspiration: Bethany Hamilton, the compelling story of the then-thirteen year old surfer who lost her left arm when she was attacked by a fourteen-foot tiger shark off the coast of Kaua’i in 2003. The display includes the surfboard she was using at the time, minus a big, bite-shaped chunk, her bathing suit, and an inspirational tribute to her recovery and triumphant return to competitive surfing a mere two and a half months later.
Mary Beth Abate is a San Diego-based freelance writer by way of Chicago and Los Angeles. Her hobbies include yoga, pickling and fermenting stuff, reading cookbooks and drinking fabulous gin. Keep up with her experiments @MaryBeth_Abate.
The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’. Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health.
Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid.
Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park. As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor.
To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power.
Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.
You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks.
It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties!
An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:
‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.”