Travel

The Most Incredible Places in Arizona (That Aren't The Grand Canyon)

Half the state looks like it was drawn by Dr. Seuss.

Westend61/Getty Images
Westend61/Getty Images
Westend61/Getty Images

Just over a decade ago I came to Arizona with low expectations and an exit plan. After all, I was leaving the glorious Pacific Northwest for what I thought was nothing more than a big, desolate desert with little to offer beyond the Grand Canyon and a four-year degree from the biggest party school in the country.

I’m still here.

Arizona completely shattered my pessimistic expectations. Where once I was a skeptic, now I’m one of those people that explain away the sweltering summer months with phrases like, “It’s just a dry heat.” Because even in the driest, hottest weather, Arizona is an absolute stunner.

It’s a state where orange-hued slot canyons give the desert a psychedelic vibe, and colourful sandstone formations could trick even the most earthbound explorer into thinking they’ve wandered off to Mars. Here, creative communities with unexpectedly rad food and drink scenes serve as your jumping off point for adventure. Ancient deserts seem painted by unseen artists, waterfalls run both deep-brown and turquoise blue, and campers can drift to sleep beneath an unforgettable heaven of stars.

That canyon? It is indeed grand. But look beyond it and you’ll discover a state whose beauty all but ensures you’ll want to stay for the long haul.

Through the Lens/Moment/Getty
Through the Lens/Moment/Getty
Through the Lens/Moment/Getty

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument

Stretching over 290,000 miles in northern Arizona, this sherbet-hued dreamworld is incredibly scenic. Here you can discover Paria Canyon and Buckskin Gulch, the latter being the longest slot canyon in the world. Adventure seekers can take the path less travelled and conquer the 6.4-mile unmarked hike to The Wave and achieve Instagram glory with an iconic shot from the top of the sandstone formation, which seemingly emerged from a Dr. Seuss drawing. This trip does take some pre-planning; there is a walk-in and lottery system for the 20 permits that the Bureau of Land Management issues each day. Fingers-crossed one of them has your name on it.

Bronek Kaminski/Photodisc/Getty
Bronek Kaminski/Photodisc/Getty
Bronek Kaminski/Photodisc/Getty

Sedona

I can’t tell you exactly what it was at the time, but something brought me to Arizona…and looking back, maybe it was the pull of Sedona’s legendary psychic vortexes. I’m not the only one feeling the tug of some sort of unknown spiritual energy: Nearly 3 million tourists visit Sedona annually, a figure that’s tripled over the last decade or so. Just a day trip from Phoenix, Sedona is a new-agey town surrounded by forests and red-rock buttes that thrust into the heavens like skyscrapers. Recognized for their powerful energy and scenic views, Bell Rock, Boynton Canyon, Airport Mesa, and Cathedral Rock are said to be the strongest vortexes around town. What does a vortex feel like, exactly? You’ll have to experience it for yourself

Sean Pavone/Shutterstock
Sean Pavone/Shutterstock
Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

Tucson

Did you know that once a year, over 60,000 crystal aficionados, fossil smugglers, royal princes, and all manner of rockhounds flock to Tucson for the Gem and Mineral Show? Luckily, the vibe in this deeply underrated city is less Uncut Gems-stressful and more easygoing, outdoorsy, and inexpensive-making it a city on the rise for artists and creatives. It’s conveniently nestled between landmarks like Saguaro National Park and Mica Mountain, and home to institutions like the Tucson Museum of Art and the University of Arizona. The aforementioned gem show usually ends without a stark raving mad Adam Sandler risking it all, but who knows? Anything can happen in the desert.

Brad Holt/Moment/Getty
Brad Holt/Moment/Getty
Brad Holt/Moment/Getty

Mission San Xavier del Bac

Located just 10 miles from Downtown Tucson, this stunningly beautiful mission was founded in 1692 and built in 1700, which makes it the oldest intact European structure in the state of Arizona and the best example of Spanish Colonial architecture in the country. Referred to as The White Dove of the Desert, the church’s interior is brimming with original statuary and detailed mural paintings that portray motifs influenced by both the Spanish and Tohono O’odham people; a style that is truly unique to Arizona and absolutely unmissable when passing through Tucson or nearby Saguaro National Park.

DAVID C TOMLINSON / THE IMAGE BANK / GETTY IMAGES
DAVID C TOMLINSON / THE IMAGE BANK / GETTY IMAGES
DAVID C TOMLINSON / THE IMAGE BANK / GETTY IMAGES

Saguaro National Park

About 20 minutes from Tucson, Saguaro National Park’s giant-and I mean HUGE-saguaro cacti will convince you that you’ve wandered straight into an Old Western. Enjoy the view from your car on either the Cactus Forest or Scenic Bajada Loop Drive; spot ancient rock carvings on the Signal Hill Petroglyphs; or hit the trail at the Valley View Overlook or Mica View Loop. Due to the pandemic, public programs are currently suspended, but all roads and trails are open to the public.

JeffGoulden/E+/Getty
JeffGoulden/E+/Getty
JeffGoulden/E+/Getty

Grand Falls

Also known as Chocolate Falls thanks to the fact that it looks like it’s overflowing with Yoohoo,  Grand Falls is a natural waterfall system positioned within the Painted Desert on the Navajo Nation. Topping out at 185-feet tall, Grand Falls is notably Arizona’s largest waterfall (it’s even taller than Niagara). Despite its grandeur and size, Grand Falls isn’t constantly flowing like its counterpart in the east. Fed by the Little Colorado River, Grand Falls turns the faucet on only during certain times of the year, including Arizona’s monsoon season and during wintertime snowstorms. For this trip, timing really is everything.

Praveen P.N/Moment/Getty
Praveen P.N/Moment/Getty
Praveen P.N/Moment/Getty

Monument Valley

Since the 1930s, Monument Valley’s iconic desert landscape has been featured in dozens of movies and western-style films. With its tower-like red sandstone bluffs and long-stretched highway, Monument Valley’s panoramic scenery is essentially the picture of the American Southwest. Parts of the area, including Hunts Mesa and Mystery Valley, are only accessible by guided tour. However, road-trippers can drive through the park on a dirt road that winds 17-miles. A trip through the park takes about two to three hours from start to finish.

Nick Fox/Shutterstock
Nick Fox/Shutterstock
Nick Fox/Shutterstock

Bisbee

Bisbee’s reputation for being a little eccentric isn’t exactly a lie. The town has been nicknamed “Mayberry on Acid.” Hell, they even printed it on t-shirts. Nestled in the Mule Mountains just 10-miles north of the Mexico border, this copper mining town-turned-artist colony provides travellers an offbeat experience against a backdrop of historic mines, psychedelic art displays, houses on stilts, assemblies of art cars, and highly interesting lawn decorations. All of that comes punctuated by old classics, including the century-old Mimosa Market, and newfangled trappings like the Airstream rentals that seem to define the modern day desert vacation.

Rebecca L. Latson/Moment/Getty
Rebecca L. Latson/Moment/Getty
Rebecca L. Latson/Moment/Getty

Painted Desert

Millions of years in the making and spanning more than 953,000 acres from Grand Canyon National Park to Petrified National Forest, the aptly named Painted Desert is a living canvas brushed with a palate of red, pink, and lavender, which make for epic sunset views. The unique landscape consists of innumerable impressive formations and features created by volcanic eruptions, floods, and earthquakes. About 25 miles east of Holbrook is Petrified Forest National Park. It takes some imagination to see it, but this area of what we know call Painted Desert was flourishing with vegetation and trees some 200 million years ago before volcanic lava basically destroyed everything in its path. The petrified wood, made mostly of quartz, is all that’s left today.

Jared Murray/Unsplash
Jared Murray/Unsplash
Jared Murray/Unsplash

Flagstaff

Just when you think you’ve got Arizona all figured out, she hits you with that UNO Reverse. This time, it comes in the form of Flagstaff, just 45 minutes north of Sedona. Flagstaff seems to make up for what the rest of the state lacks: Humphrey’s Peak, the state’s tallest mountain, replaces the usual sandy expanses. The Arizona Snowbowl, the state’s biggest ski resort, defies the dry desert heat (as does the city’s annual 108 inches of snowfall). A national forest surrounds the town with 1.8 million acres of green ponderosa pine trees where you might expect cacti and tumbleweeds. And if you need a stiff drink to recover from the shock of just how wrong you were, Flagstaff is also known for being one of the Southwest’s best cities for craft beers. If you didn’t know, now you know.

Fotoluminate LLC/Shutterstock
Fotoluminate LLC/Shutterstock
Fotoluminate LLC/Shutterstock

Cottonwood / Jerome

Cottonwood is the star of Northern Arizona’s sly reputation as a wine region, thanks in large part to Maynard James Keenan-yes, the lead singer of Tool. In 2007, he and a partner launched the Arizona Stronghold Vineyards, now Arizona’s best-selling and highest-volume winery using estate-grown grapes. The fun continues at places like Merkin Vineyards Tasting Room & Osteria, where you can enjoy local wine alongside hearty Italian food, as the Lord intended. Cottonwood’s restaurant and bar scene is surprisingly hefty for such a small town. And just 15 minutes down the track, the hillside village of Jerome offers yet another Keenan-owned winery, Caduceus Cellars, ghosty attractions like the Jerome Grand Hotel, and the Gold King Mine, where you can explore old mine shafts, a working sawmill, a collection of over 180 rusty vintage vehicles, and even pan for some gold. Make room in your photo roll.

Dave Stamboulis/Contributor/Moment/Getty
Dave Stamboulis/Contributor/Moment/Getty
Dave Stamboulis/Contributor/Moment/Getty

Page

For the uninitiated, Page looks like nothing more than a desolate spot on the map near the statline crossing into Utah. Look a little closer. Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend, local secrets for years, have become some of the most photographed natural attractions in the Southwest (thanks, Instagram!). A quick hike will get you to the Horseshoe Bend overlook where you can get a bird’s eye view of the Colorado River and horseshoe-shaped meander below. And in a state with no shortage of unique geological formations, some of the most puzzling and fascinating just be found at Antelope Canyon. Guided tours are required, but the supernatural beauty of it all is definitely worth it.

Michael Hanson/The Image Bank/Getty
Michael Hanson/The Image Bank/Getty
Michael Hanson/The Image Bank/Getty

Havasu Falls

Located in the Grand Canyon, Havasu Falls-or Supai Falls-is undoubtedly a special, dare I say magic, place. There is a somewhat-rugged 10-mile hike in to see the turquoise blue natural wonder, but sturdy hiking shoes, plenty of water, and a good attitude is all you really need. Absolute must-sees such as Mooney Falls, Beaver Falls, and the confluence of the Colorado River are all within hiking distance from your camp if you’re feeling ambitious. Reservations and permits are required for all hikers and campers, and can be secured online prior to your adventure. As of August 2020, some travel restrictions are in effect.

Also note that Havasu Falls is not the same as Lake Havasu City, so don’t rock up to the Grand Canyon expecting to find a secret metropolis. The latter is out on the California border and is just as worthy of a visit to check out London Bridge, the second biggest tourist attraction in the state.

Artistik31/Shutterstock
Artistik31/Shutterstock
Artistik31/Shutterstock

Emerald Cove

This hidden cove is like something taken straight out of a fairytale. Don’t let the fact that it’s only accessible by some sort of watercraft get you down. Borrow a kayak from a friend (everyone knows a guy, right?) and set out on an aquatic quest to discover the green waters of the ever-so-enchanting Emerald Cove for yourself. Begin your journey from Willow Beach and paddle your heart out upstream. You’ll encounter the serene scenic site in no time. There’s 235-miles of picturesque Colorado River shoreline to explore here, too, so it’s not like you’re paddling in a vacuum.

Lauren Topor Reichert is a Phoenix-based writer and photographer with a serious case of wanderlust. Follow her around Arizona, and beyond, on Instagram

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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