Travel

Why I Left NYC to Live Off-Grid in a Tiny Camper

Apparently, living sustainably in the woods really is all it's cracked up to be.

Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis, Design by Grace Han for Thrillist
Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis, Design by Grace Han for Thrillist
Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis, Design by Grace Han for Thrillist

Professional chef, musician, and dog mom Lee Kalpakis spent Summer 2020 relocating from her Brooklyn apartment to the Hudson Valley. Furloughed from work due to the pandemic with a soon-to-expire lease, Lee and her partner, Sean, raced to relocate on a tight timeline and even tighter budget. By September, they’d purchased a plot of land in the woods, where they plan to build a house, and a 1976 Fleetwood Prowler camper, where they are currently living full-time. Follow their camper renovation journey on Instagram. As told to Keller Powell.I’m an Upstate New York girl, originally. My parents are from Montreal. They traveled around Canada and the states in a van for a while before settling down in the Hudson Valley to open a restaurant and have kids. I think maybe that’s why I’ve always been drawn to this kind of lifestyle.

I love New York City. I was there for 14 years total. My favorite thing to do was just walk around for hours by myself-I think because it made me feel like I was in a movie. We didn’t leave the city because we were sick of it. We always knew we wanted to buy land and build a house upstate, but our dream was to keep our apartment in Brooklyn and have a house up here. Letting that dream go was so hard for me. But there wasn’t another option.

Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis
Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis
Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis

When the pandemic hit, I was working freelance as a recipe developer and assistant food stylist (the person who helps cook all the food for a photo shoot) at places like Bon Appétit, Epicurious, Delish, and Jewish Food Society. I was also working as a private chef and really, really loved it. My boyfriend Sean is a carpenter, and was building sets for Showtime and HBO and fun things like that.

When things got serious in the city, all our gigs were put on pause. We were hoping things would just… go back to normal. Two weeks turned into two months, and our jobs didn’t come back. Before we knew it our lease was up on our beautiful loft in Bushwick and we couldn’t afford to keep it. 

So we pushed forward to figure out our next move. We’re both from the Hudson Valley, and real estate started blowing up here, so buying land as soon as possible was our best and only option. In May, we found a secluded plot we could afford. In July, we found a 1976 Fleetwood camper and completely gutted it to make a simple, low-impact home. 

Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis
Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis
Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis

I wish I could say the transition was super easy, but it was a serious adjustment to go from a 700-square-foot loft to a tiny camper in the middle of the woods. Especially sleeping at night, when I was so used to city noises-out here, you hear nothing. Except we have several barred owls on the property, and when they mate they sound like women screaming, so you can imagine how that went over at 3am.

Of course I felt lonely, but who hasn’t in the past year? You spend enough time somewhere and get used to it. As much as we both loved the city, we were tired of constantly working without being able to save. We wanted to spend more time doing things we love, like climbing, surfing, hiking, swimming, fishing, snowboarding, and cycling. We wanted to build our own house so we didn’t have to pay rent or a mortgage. We envisioned a life for ourselves that was simple, surrounded by nature, and close to family. 

Downsizing has been invigorating. I love getting rid of unnecessary things and working toward the goal of only owning things you truly love and use. I’m addicted to Facebook marketplace; I buy things, but the real adrenaline rush comes from selling. I got rid of so much stuff over the summer and it felt so good to see those things turn into money to put towards the camper build.We are doing all the renovations ourselves; when we’re done, we’ll move on to building our house. Sean is a professional builder with over 10 years of experience, which allows us to save dramatically on construction costs. To be honest, if we’d needed to hire professionals, we couldn’t have done it. Throughout this whole process, we’ve been short on money, but not short on time. 

We’re very much inspired by Dick Proenneke and have watched Alone In The Wilderness a bunch. It’s a must for anyone who fantasizes about living off-grid. But the most valuable resources were friends and family who had experience in real estate and building. We have a friend who built an off-grid home years ago, so being able to see his setup and bounce ideas off him was huge. Find someone who’s done it before-that’s the best advice I can give.

Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis
Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis
Photo courtesy of Lee Kalpakis

If you’re the kind of person who has a meltdown when a bee flies by, this isn’t for you. You have to be comfortable in nature-you also have to be willing to work constantly to maintain your comfort levels. Every week we get our propane tanks filled at the hardware store, and haul all our water in. We have a composting toilet and a big shaggy dog who loves to play in the mud. It’s a lot of moving parts that keep you on your toes. 

But there’s something I really love about all these responsibilities. When things are running smoothly, you feel proud. I’ve never lived in such a low-impact space, and it feels exhilarating to live so efficiently. We keep things simple because there’s no other way. We’ve embraced a day-to-day that is low waste and above all, conscious. You have your finger on the pulse of the entire operation of living; it feels really good.

In a tiny kitchen, everything is accounted for. Nothing is forgotten in the back of the fridge. As someone who cooks professionally, camper cooking has been a fun challenge. Pantry items like rice, pasta, olive oil, and vinegars are bought in bulk and kept in storage. Meat and produce we get at our local farm and are purchased much more frequently. We love an outdoor cooking project, even in the winter.  So meat and larger quantities of vegetables are usually done out on the grill, any kind of soup or stew is done in my Le Creuset Dutch oven, and we do eggs and pancakes in my stainless steel sauté pan from Pot Luck. And surprisingly, the original oven in the camper works great.

Above all else, it’s the sense of freedom that’s so staggering. We own something, and don’t have to pay rent or a mortgage. There was a time in my life when that was unfathomable. It’s made everything worth it.Sign up here for our daily Thrillist email, get Next Flight Out for more travel coverage, and subscribe here for our YouTube channel to get your fix of the best in food/drink/fun.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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