Travel

You Can Rent This Kaleidoscopic Snake House on Airbnb

Just outside downtown Mexico City, stay in an Airbnb literally built for a god.

Photo courtesy of Quetzalcoatl's Nest Airbnb
Photo courtesy of Quetzalcoatl’s Nest Airbnb
Photo courtesy of Quetzalcoatl’s Nest Airbnb

In the woods outside downtown Mexico City, an ethereal serpent winds through the trees and up into the green hills. Its technicolour body, smattered with windows that look into a tranquil, milky white interior, weaves itself in and out of the landscape, alive with shades of bright orange, cerulean, and emerald green. Those who stumble upon it might think it’s something out of an ancient myth (if not a vision seen during an intense acid trip). Those who went out of their way to seek it, however, know they’re gazing upon Quetzalcoatl’s Nest.

When humble genius/architect Javier Senosiain was given land to design another one of his masterpieces, he wasn’t planning to build a massive, kaleidoscopic snake nest. As a believer in organic architecture, he simply wanted to build something to complement the land.

“Organic architecture flows with nature,” explains Patricia Castillo, a friend of the architect who hosts an apartment inside the structure on Airbnb. “It’s not destroying, it’s not competing-it’s observing nature and how you can copy the structures, colours, forms, and integrate that into your way of living.”

Courtesy of Quetzalcoatl's Nest Airbnb
Courtesy of Quetzalcoatl’s Nest Airbnb
Courtesy of Quetzalcoatl’s Nest Airbnb

When Senosiain built an early model, he used pool floaties instead of rope (seriously) to create an outline over the oddly-shaped plot of land, which was defined by caves, canyons, and scores of trees. Noticing that the shape he’d built resembled a snake, Senosiain recalled a quote from one of his architectural heroes, Antoni Gaudí: “Originality is a return to the origin.”

In reverence of the Aztecs, the original occupants of the land that is now Mexico City, Senosiain decided to model a structure after the unique shape of the feathered snake god Quetzalcoatl-or more accurately, Quetzalcoatl’s Nest.

Photo courtesy of Quetzalcoatl's Nest Airbnb
Photo courtesy of Quetzalcoatl’s Nest Airbnb
Photo courtesy of Quetzalcoatl’s Nest Airbnb

He built the twisting, iridescent form over six years, completing the project in 2006. Back then, the property was a 10-bedroom residential apartment with gardens and a huge park whose caves and ponds stretched over 44 acres. But about five years ago, a few of the rooms were transformed into Airbnb rentals, attracting out-of-towners-and Instagram influencers-looking for an otherworldly stay.

Quetzalcoatl’s Nest can host up to six guests in one of its curvaceous apartments for $6300 pesos per night (or $300 USD for a two-night minimum stay) on Airbnb. (Seven rooms are still being rented long-term, so be mindful of other guests during your stay).

But it’s more than just a place to rest your head. “Many of the guests have told me that they thought they were coming to stay in an apartment… they never expected to have a transformational experience,” says Castillo. “And from that day, they started questioning how they were living, what they were doing, and what they wanted.”

Castillo says Quetzalcoatl’s Nest is bigger, more colourful, and more “unreal” in person than you could ever imagine (or any influencer could capture for IG). But the interior is surprisingly minimalistic and modern. The most unique detail here are the rooms’ rounded corners-and those hold meaning, too.

Photo courtesy of Quetzalcoatl's Nest Airbnb
Photo courtesy of Quetzalcoatl’s Nest Airbnb
Photo courtesy of Quetzalcoatl’s Nest Airbnb

Senosaiain believed that when we’re born, we go from a round womb to a square crib, to a square car, to a square apartment, and on and on from one unnatural box to the next. The fluidity of the rooms at Quetzalcoatl’s Nest were built to release visitors from that cycle-and, instead, return us to the origin, just as Gaudí said.

“[The boxed-in] way of living takes us apart from three things we were born with: astonishment, imagination, and freedom,” Castillo says. “This place is built to be in contact with nature. To go back to your origin. To question who you are, and what are your dreams.”

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Joel Balsam is a freelance journalist and travel guidebook writer whose work can be found in National Geographic Travel, Time, The Guardian, Lonely Planet, and Travel + Leisure. Follow him @joelbalsam.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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