Travel

An Icy Land of Extreme Adventure Awaits at the Top of the World

Bask in the northern lights during a never-ending night.

Chase Dekker Wild-Life Images/ Moment/ Getty Images
Chase Dekker Wild-Life Images/ Moment/ Getty Images
Chase Dekker Wild-Life Images/ Moment/ Getty Images

When it comes to far-flung destinations, there’s remote-and then there’s Svalbard. Although technically a Norwegian territory, the three main islands of this isolated archipelago are actually closer to the North Pole than they are to mainland Europe. So removed is it from civilization that scientists entrusted the region with the Global Seed Vault: a long-term repository to ensure the replanting of Earth in the event of global catastrophe that looks like a Bond villain lair and is likely just as secure. 

Many tourists flock here simply to say they’ve visited the world’s northernmost permanent settlement. Or drank a beer at the world’s northernmost brewery. Or stayed at the world’s northernmost hotel. Yes, virtually everything you do here will be the world’s northernmost example of whatever it is you’re doing. 

But this place is so much more than mere novelty. With unfettered access to icebergs, glaciers, polar bears, and snowmobiles, it’s an adventure lover’s dream. The primary population center of Longyearbyen-a ‘city’ of some 2,700 year-round residents-affords a disproportionate allotment of culture and haute cuisine. And the Northern Lights? Come during winter and you can peep them at lunchtime. Just don’t forget to catch the rest of these can’t-miss experiences while you’re here: they’d be unforgettable even if they weren’t the northernmost experiences.

 David Merron Photography/ Moment/ Getty Images
David Merron Photography/ Moment/ Getty Images
David Merron Photography/ Moment/ Getty Images

Take a fjord cruise toward the Nordenskiöld Glacier

Between the end of May and August, Svalbard’s sun-soaked polar summer never gets darker than dawn. Temperatures climb to a downright balmy 45-degrees Fahrenheit. Tropical it is not, but the permanent daylight allows for night kayaking, midnight seal-spotting, and hours-long glacial excursions courtesy of the world’s northernmost fjord cruise. This engaging voyage embarks every morning out of Longyearbyen on its way up to where a massive ice field adjoins the Arctic Ocean. On the return you’ll snack on some marinated whale meat for lunch before stopping in Pyramiden-an abandoned Russian coal-mining settlement. Obviously, that’s even more visceral under a night sky blanketed with aurora.

 Jami Tarris/ Photodisc/ Getty Images
Jami Tarris/ Photodisc/ Getty Images
Jami Tarris/ Photodisc/ Getty Images

Head out on a polar safari 

Make no mistake, you’ll see wildlife on any maritime adventure in this part of the world. Whales, puffins, polar bears, even narwhals-the environment is awash in activity, and that’s to say nothing of the reindeer and foxes on land. But if you’re in search of walruses, specifically, there’s a safari just for you. The outspoken, blubbery mammals love to congregate, particularly in the summer months when they flock to the beach for prolonged sunbathing. Walruses: they’re just like us! Traverse the Isfjord on a speedboat to arrive at Poolepynten on Prins Karls Forland, among the world’s largest colonies of tusked pinnipeds.

 Sandra Leidholdt/ Moment/ Getty Images
Sandra Leidholdt/ Moment/ Getty Images
Sandra Leidholdt/ Moment/ Getty Images

Explore-and eat through-Longyearbyen 

In recent years, Svalbard has fallen prey to the same nordic dining trends that have captivated much of its southerly Scandinavian neighbors. That means an emphasis on purity, simplicity, and freshness. It’s on display at myriad restaurants dotting the surprisingly dense downtown promenade. At Stationen, an open kitchen plates its Moby Dick Burger, made from whale and served with pea puree and lingonberry spread. A charcuterie menu features cured Norwegian meats, which are often paired alongside a local craft ale or lager from Svalbard Bryggeri (you better believe it’s the world’s most northerly beermaker). 

Hire a taxi-or a bike in the summer-and ride uphill to the edge of town for gastronomic bliss at Gruvelagret. Built into a converted wooden mining house, the kitchen here offers refined tasting menus. Reindeer, foraged mushrooms, and mosses make frequent appearances. Just down the street is Huset, where you can enjoy the house-baked rye underneath a tartare of bearded seal. It’s also home to the largest wine cellar in all of Scandinavia.

Polar Jazz Festival
Polar Jazz Festival
Polar Jazz Festival

Attend a jazz festival underneath the aurora

As magical as the midnight sun can be in summer, it comes at a price. Namely: polar night, which extends annually from October 26th through February 15th. To help bolster tourism during these dark days, a few local jazz enthusiasts came up with the bright idea of launching a wintertime music festival. That was all the way back in 1997. Ever since, the first weekend of February has been dedicated to the melodious jamboree known as the Polar Jazz Festival, which now attracts performers from across the globe. Scandinavian Airlines helps sponsor the festival, flying musicians up for free from the Norwegian capital of Oslo. But even if you’re not stepping on stage, it’s still easy to shuttle on up as a paying passenger. The three-hour-long flight departs daily. And, yes, as you might have suspected, it is the world’s northernmost jazz festival. 

Ingeborg Klarenberg/ Moment/ Getty Images
Ingeborg Klarenberg/ Moment/ Getty Images
Ingeborg Klarenberg/ Moment/ Getty Images

Experience a greatest-hits collection of polar adventure

Book a stay at the Basecamp Explorer and get a taste for the town’s coal-mining roots-with a decidedly more decadent spin. The lodge flaunts a log cabin aesthetic, with cozy bunks featuring fur rugs and driftwood-fashioned furnishings. More than just a clever name, Basecamp is part hotel, part adventurer’s hub. A special concierge hooks guests up with exclusive immersions within the surrounding wilderness. Dog-mushing, snowmobiling, and aurora tours are popular in the winter months, while kayaking, and arctic sailing trips open up in the summer. Considering Svalbard is overflowing with opportunities for adventure, using this as your central hub means you cram as many expeditions and experiences as possible… and with an expert on hand to ensure you return from the ice fields to do it all again.Sign up here for our daily Thrillist email, get Next Flight Out for more travel coverage, and subscribe here for our YouTube channel to get your fix of the best in food/drink/fun.

Brad Japhe is a freelance journalist with a wicked case of the get-up-and-gos. He enjoys his whisky neat and his IPA hazy. He’s usually found at the junction of food, booze, and travel. Follow him @Journeys_with_Japhe.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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