Travel

Arctic Adventure-and Polar Bears-Await in Greenland

Get good and chilly in the land of icebergs, fjords, and the northern lights.

Ziba Photo Media/iStock/Getty Images Plus
Ziba Photo Media/iStock/Getty Images Plus
Ziba Photo Media/iStock/Getty Images Plus

By now you’re probably well aware of the scenic appeal of Iceland, a destination as majestic as it is rugged. The country’s decade-long tourism boom has benefited from playing up these attributes. Now neighboring Greenland is taking a page from that same playbook, and the strategy is working. The world’s biggest island is beginning to draw more visitors than ever before.

Sure, it’s not the easiest place to get to, but that’s kind of a feature rather than a flaw; those that brave the journey are rewarded with an incomparable breadth of beauty, minus Iceland’s crowds. In fact, everything a typical tourist to Iceland is hoping for can be found in grander form in Greenland. Wildlife lovers can spot humpbacks and narwhals in the seas and polar bears and musk ox on land. Is it icebergs and glaciers, you seek? This place is home to the world’s largest ice sheet outside of Antarctica. It covers roughly 80% of the landmass, an area around three times the size of Texas. And yes, you can see the Aurora Borealis there, too.

And no disrespect to Iceland, but it does sort of feel like everyone on your social media feed has already been there, done that, and collected the Instagram likes to prove it. Greenland is where the really rugged adventurers collect their clout. And besides, most visitors here end up arriving by way of Iceland. So why not collect the two-for-one special?

Here’s how to cross Greenland off your travel bucket list-and what to expect when you do.

KimKimsenphot/iStock/Getty Images Plus
KimKimsenphot/iStock/Getty Images Plus
KimKimsenphot/iStock/Getty Images Plus

Best places for first-timers to visit in Greenland

Greenland is sort of the Midwest of the planet, in that everyone flies over it but few consider visiting. It’s more than 20 times the size of Iceland but has just one sixth of the population; despite being the world’s largest island, it’s home to only around 56,000 people. New York City, by comparison, concentrates its population-roughly 150 times greater-into an area just over 300 square miles.

Flying into the small airport at eastern Greenland’s Constable Point will drop you near the mouth of Kangertittivaq, or Scoresby Sund, the largest fjord in the world. Nearby is Ittoqqortoormiit, the northernmost community in East Greenland, and one of the most remote towns on the planet.

In comparison to eastern Greenland, western Greenland might as well be one giant metropolis. The country’s capital of Nuuk is located along its southwestern shores, boasting a population of nearly 18,000 year-round residents. Head there to enjoy (relatively) urban spoils like the Greenland National Museum and Nuuk Art Museum, take in public installations along the Nuuk Art Walk, shop for music, books, and handicrafts in local boutiques, dine in lauded restaurants and cafes, and even live it up at late-night clubs, pubs, and bars around the city.

In recent years there has also been a tourism uptick to Ilulissat, a western community of 5,000 people. Throughout the summer months, visitors flock here to see the icefjord, which was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 2004. The local glacier system is the most productive in the Northern Hemisphere. It frequently calves off icebergs the size of small cities. In fact a total of 20 billion tons of the floating mega-chunks will flow through this area each year. In July of 2021, the community opened its doors to the Ilulissat Icefjord Centre, a modern, outsized structure from which to peer into the heart of the world’s second largest ice sheet.

Quark Expeditions
Quark Expeditions
Quark Expeditions

Cruises and tours around Greenland

Not everyone is into the whole cruise scene. And that’s understandable; the traditional offerings can feel boring at best, and restrictive at worst. But a new era has opened up for adventure cruising, a sub-sector entirely devoted to getting you off the ship and onto some of the most far-flung destinations on earth. In fact, it’s the fastest growing category in the industry these days, and it’s the easiest way to explore this part of the world.

As for providers, you’ve got options, but there’s no going wrong with Adventure Canada, Hurtigruten Expeditions, or Quark Expeditions. Adventure Canada specializes in cultural immersion, employing local Inuit guides to help interpret the folkways and traditions of Indigenous peoples from this part of the world. Hurtigruten is unequivocally the best-equipped at getting you to the remote reaches of eastern Greenland, while providing ample excursions along the way (kayaking alongside icebergs, anyone?). And Quark offers small adventure cruises (maybe 100 people, including crew) that specialize in polar expeditions, both Arctic and Antarctic.

With Adventure Canada you actually start your journey in Kugluktuk, a small Inuit community in the Canadian Arctic. You progress eastward across the highest reaches of Nunavut for one week before crossing Baffin Bay on to the western shores of Greenland. The seven days of the voyage are spent surveying the coastline and making daily excursions to points of interest on land, including day trips to Ilulissat and Sisimiut, before disembarking at Kangerlussuaq. This 17-day adventure will set you back $13,995 per person, but you’ll want to budget a few hundred dollars more for add-ons like kayaking, drinking, and-of course-tipping.

Quark Expeditions
Quark Expeditions
Quark Expeditions

A cruise on Hurtigruten, by comparison, is a slightly less rugged affair. Guests can savor chef-prepared Scandinavian cuisine from one of two restaurants on board. Rooms are well-appointed, with the higher end offerings including wood-trimmed balconies. There is a workout room, along with a sauna and two hot tubs on the top deck. The outfitter currently offers a total of three Greenland excursions. I recommend the Ultimate Fjord Expedition (starting at $8,637 per person), which embarks from Reykjavik every August and spends a total of 13 days at sea. The majority of that time is spent exploring Scoresby Sund. But if weather permits, the ship heads further north into Northeast Greenland National Park. At 375,3000 square miles, it is the world’s largest dedicated preserve, welcoming fewer visitors annually than the number of trekkers who summit Everest each year.

As for Quark Expeditions, packages vary-the popular Under the Northern Lights: Exploring Iceland & East Greenland, for example, runs $6,695 per person plus the aforementioned cost of add-ons. Quark’s expedition crew members are all knowledgeable in different areas-history, marine biology, glaciology, and photography-so the cruise feels very deliberate and you’re not just getting mindlessly steered around. An average cruise day would include breakfast followed by a morning activity like a hike, kayak expedition or Zodiac cruise, an up-close tour of icebergs and glaciers upon inflatable boats. After lunch, afternoon activities continue in the same vein. The itinerary is pretty flexible, contingent on weather and unexpected experiences like bear sightings.

Hurtigruten Expeditions
Hurtigruten Expeditions
Hurtigruten Expeditions

Nature and outdoor attractions in Greenland

Polar bears only evolved around 150,000 years ago, but are predicted to go extinct within the next couple of decades, a sad, tiny blip in this planet’s history. And sure you can see them in zoos, but seeing them in the wild is something else entirely. On any given day at sea with Hurtigruten, Quark, or Adventure Canada, you can see dozens of the alabaster bears: females with cubs making their way down to the water and disappearing into slow-moving wakes as they start to swim, or even lone males moving steadily across stark, high plateaus. Pro-tip: Polar bears are generally best viewed during the brief summer season.

One of the things the Arctic has over the Antarctic is that it’s an incredible wildlife destination, a region where you can see not just polar bears, but muskox, arctic foxes, arctic hares, seals,

whales, and maybe even narwhals. Narwhals aren’t likely, to be honest, as they’re an exceedingly rare sighting, but perhaps you’ll be one of the lucky ones. If you’re mostly interested in wildlife, Hurtigruten Expeditions offers focused packages that get you tracking down your favorite critters.

posteriori/E+/Getty Images
posteriori/E+/Getty Images
posteriori/E+/Getty Images

If your bucket list includes seeing the eerie, magical northern lights, you’re in luck. The best time of year to see them in Greenland is around September and October, when the sky begins to darken as winter takes hold-and then again around March and April. Far from any major light pollution, visitors are treated to ridiculously dark skies on cloudy nights, but have a good chance of viewing awe-inspiring bands of color when the skies clear.

You might assume that the lights are essentially either active or inactive according to the strength and direction of solar winds and whether the day’s solar eruptions have been sufficiently… big or something. But FYI, this is not quite how it works. The lights are brighter right after increased sunspot activity, and at certain points in the solar cycle (which operates in years, not months, so don’t overthink that one too much). But they are “on,” so to speak, pretty much all the time. Whether or not the human eye can see them depends on location and how clear and dark it is at night. You can see the utility, then, of viewing the lights onboard a ship in a remote, unpopulated fjord.

Quark Expeditions
Quark Expeditions
Quark Expeditions

Cultural experiences in Greenland

The vast majority of Greenland’s population-around 88%-are Greenlandic Inuit. The community of Ittoqqortoormiit has a population of around 450, and if you’re visiting Greenland via cruise, like many first-timers, a morning spent hanging out with the locals here tends to be the only human interaction you’ll get with anyone who isn’t part of your cruise. You can look through the museum (which houses a hunter’s settlement, paintings and costumes), interact with a sled dog or two, meet locals, and ideally purchase some artisanal goods. One issue facing the Greenlandic Inuit is the European Union’s trade ban on sealskin products, but an Inuit exemption allows them to sell sealskin wares. Still, the industry has suffered a crash because this information is little known.

The “encounters with locals” portion of organized tours are frequently bungled and misguided, at best cringey and at worst exploitative or even racist. It is with a colossal amount of relief that I report that Adventure Canada, Quark, and Hurtigruten Expeditions take great steps to avoid these unacceptable outcomes. Traveling with these outfitters never includes anything potentially invasive like looking inside people’s homes, and the crews are emphatically conscientious about briefing passengers beforehand about proper etiquette, having often lived and/or spent time in the communities themselves, and being friendly with its residents. It’s the ideal way to see Greenland, in smallish groups led by people with a connection to the places you visit, with most of your time spent on the water.

kertu_ee/iStock/Getty Images
kertu_ee/iStock/Getty Images
kertu_ee/iStock/Getty Images

What to know before you go to Greenland

How to get in and around Greenland

Thanks to the Iceland tourism boom, you can get to Greenland via cheap flights from Reykjavik all the time; the flight from Reykjavik to the small airport at eastern Greenland’s Constable Point is only about an hour and a half. The airport sits near the mouth of Kangertittivaq, or Scoresby Sund, the largest fjord in the world. You can also fly direct from Reykjavik to Greenland’s capital city, Nuuk, in western Greenland. But there’s an even bigger international airport further north in Kangerlussuaq. Flights arrive here daily during the summer from Denmark and Norway.

You can also get to the area by sea if you wish-and truly, this is one of the best ways to experience Greenland. Hurtigruten Expeditions is one of the top cruise liners floating people to this remote region, and passengers can make landfall here during the months of August and September, when the expedition line offers two-week-long adventures through the Scoresby Sund Fjord System. Other choice cruise liners include Adventure Canada and Quark Expeditions.

Greenland’s time zone

Greenland is broken up into three different time zones, but the bulk of the country, including the capital city, Nuuk, fall into Western Greenland Time (GMT -2). The eastern village of Ittoqqortoormiit, however, falls into Eastern Greenland Summer Time (GMT +0).

Maridav/iStock/Getty Images Plus
Maridav/iStock/Getty Images Plus
Maridav/iStock/Getty Images Plus

The weather and climate

Greenland’s climate is classified as Arctic tundra. In the winter, average temperatures up north can drop to 4 degrees Fahrenheit, while the southern part of the island can see a high of 68 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer months. However, due to the low humidity, it often feels warmer than you’d think looking at the numbers.

Languages spoken in Greenland

Greenland’s official language is West Greenlandic, while Danish and English are also taught in schools.

The currency

Greenland uses the Danish Krone (DKK) and each Krone is worth 100 øre (comparable to cents). As of October, 2023, $1 USD exchanges for 7.08 kr.

International adapters you’ll need

Greenland uses plug types C, F, E, and K. Type C, also used in all European countries except the UK, Ireland, Malta, and Cyprus, is marked by two round pins, while F, E, and K are slight variations of C.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Kastalia Medrano was formerly Thrillist’s Travel Writer. You can send her travel tips at @kastaliamedrano.

Brad Japhe is a contributor for Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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