Travel

This Tiny French Town Grows the World's Best-Smelling Flowers

Take a trip to the perfume capital of the world.

Roger Hutchings/Corbis Historical/Getty Images
Roger Hutchings/Corbis Historical/Getty Images
Roger Hutchings/Corbis Historical/Getty Images

Alexia P. Hammonds has strong opinions about perfume.

“Women shouldn’t have signature scents,” declares the founder and CEO of the Eat, Sweat, Undress wellness and hair fragrance line. It’s a philosophy in direct opposition to her fragrance-filled upbringing, with a mother and grandmother who both swore by Chanel No. 5. But the self-proclaimed perfume nerd takes her stance seriously, going so far as to calibrate her day through the nose. Sniff her in the morning and you may find something floral and bright; for bedtime, it’s a musky tobacco.

When she set about launching her own line of hair fragrances (including the obligatory flirty musk, Carnal 4), Hammonds turned to the experts in Grasse, France. “Everyone wants their fragrance to say ‘Made in France.'”

Known as the perfume capital of the world and home to some of the oldest perfumeries in Europe, the Provençal town of Grasse produces exquisite flowers that are blended into offerings from the likes of Louis Vuitton, Tom Ford, Dior, Hermès, and Chanel. When she launched her line in October 2020, Hammonds became the first Black female founder to join the ranks of the luxury houses in Grasse.

“The perfumers choose you,” she explains of the prestigious perfume industry here. “It’s more if they want to take you on as a client. You don’t choose them.”

Valery Hache/AFP/Getty Images
Valery Hache/AFP/Getty Images
Valery Hache/AFP/Getty Images

Not too far from the glitz and glamour of Cannes on the French Riviera, Grasse sees two million visitors in a regular year.  Its unique topography, nestled between mountains and the sea, produces heavenly scented fields of jasmine, orange blossoms, mimosa, and lavender. Some of the fields are accessible for careful frolicking and photo ops; others are strictly protected by the perfumeries, much like vineyards to a winery. And like grapes that produce specific wine varietals, the blooms in Grasse have their own distinct scent, owing to the terroir.

The rose, specifically the Centifola or May rose, has brought particular prestige to the region. Blooming only in May and only in Grasse, its sweet and spicy essence is key for sought-after fragrances from Le Labo’s Rose 31 (Le Labo’s tagline is “Born in Grasse, Raised in New York”)  to Chanel No. 5, a cult classic since 1921. (When asked what she wore to bed, Marilyn Monroe famously answered “five drops of Chanel No. 5,” and nothing else. Sales skyrocketed.)

Michael Maas/Shutterstock
Michael Maas/Shutterstock
Michael Maas/Shutterstock

Grasse has always been a smelly town. But in the beginning the smells weren’t all that… pleasant. In medieval times the town dabbled in the leather business, but a pungent odor lingered on the merchandise, putting off the noses of the Italian nobility meant to wear it-until a local leather tanner made a pair of scented gloves using the roses and spices from the surrounding hillside. He gifted them to Catherine de Medici, and soon all the well-to-do donned leather accessories that smelled like flowers. Eventually, production shifted from leather to fragrance.

Today the town is home to the prestigious Grasse Institute of Perfumery, which offers short-term perfume instruction as well as an 18-month immersive program that only accepts 12 students at a time, for those whose higher calling is to smell.

Veniamin Kraskov/Shutterstock
Veniamin Kraskov/Shutterstock
Veniamin Kraskov/Shutterstock

A visit to Grasse should include a tour of some of the oldest perfumeries in France. There’s Galimard, founded in 1747 and provider of fragrances to the court of Louis XV; Molinard, established in 1849, whose factory features structures designed by Gustave Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame; and Fragonard, established in 1926, in the center of the city.

“I loved browsing Fragonard,” says Hammonds. “It was just a cool thing to walk around and see how people experience fragrance. Because fragrance is so subjective.”

In the heart of the old city is the Musée International de la Parfumerie (International Perfume Museum), with adjoining conservatory gardens. Objects on display trace 3,000 years of perfume history and the many uses of fragrance, from magic to seduction to hygiene.

And a walk down the medieval town’s cobblestone streets presents you with orange villas, picturesque squares with shops and gurgling fountains, and other non-perfume activities: the Museum of Art and History of Provence houses three canvases by Rubens in an 18th century building.

ArTono/Shutterstock
ArTono/Shutterstock
ArTono/Shutterstock

But of course you can’t leave Grasse without trying your hand at making your own signature scent. Options for perfume classes abound; Hammonds opted for one at Molinard, where a two-hour session runs about 199 Euros, or $237, and introduces you to a wonderland of 100 building block essences to find your own smell.

“You choose from different base notes, middle, or heart notes, and top notes and they blend it for you,” says Hammond. “And while you’re doing that they give you the town’s history and pour you Champagne. I was like,  ‘We need more like this in the States!'”

After you name your scent Molinard then bottles it, labels it, and adds your unique fragrance recipe to their files. “If you want to come back in and re-order, or email them, you can always do that,” says Hammond. “I love that.”

And if you decide to launch your own line, you’ll already have one scent down.

Vanita Salisbury is Thrillist’s Senior Travel Writer. She wouldn’t mind if you smelled like a tobacco musk.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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