Travel

Spot Polar Bears and The Northern Lights All In One Trip

For six weeks every year, this town in Canada has more polar bears than humans.

Peter Lilja/Photodisc/Getty Images
Peter Lilja/Photodisc/Getty Images
Peter Lilja/Photodisc/Getty Images

The town of Churchill, Manitoba is so remote you can only get there by rail or small plane – unless you’re a polar bear, in which case you’d just lumber in on foot. Known as the Polar Bear Capital of the World, Churchill’s human residents (about 900) are fully stocked with tales of impromptu polar bear run-ins: Opening up their drapes only to come face to face with coal-black eyes, or flickering the flashlight on their phone to scare a beast off on the street. There’s a 24-hour hotline for sightings, 675-BEAR, which in a busy year might get used over 300 times.

Spotting a polar bear-this time, on purpose-is a bucket-list opportunity compelling nature enthusiasts to journey far up to this former 18th-century trading post, 1,000 miles north of Winnipeg, sitting on the rocky Hudson Bay. Here the dazzling bands of the northern lights are active over 300 nights a year and the wildlife includes arctic foxes, red foxes, camouflaged arctic hare, moose, wolves, and some 390 species of birds. But if you’re all about the bears, the best time to visit is October and November, when the largest land carnivores converge by the hundreds.

Alan Dyer/Stocktrek Images/Getty Images
Alan Dyer/Stocktrek Images/Getty Images
Alan Dyer/Stocktrek Images/Getty Images

The big event? Feeding season. “When the sea starts to freeze, ice gets pushed by the currents and the wind into that bay,” says Vanessa Desorcy, Marketing Manager of Churchill Wild wilderness lodges.  “And the bears know that the sea ice is going to form there first, and then they can head out and start hunting seals again.”

To spot them, tour operators take visitors from Churchill to the outer tundra, where they cruise around in custom 4×4 vehicles the size of massive boosted-up school buses. They’re equipped with outdoor viewing platforms, designed to keep you safe out of reach of the bears.

Summer tourists get rewarded with a different wildlife-spotting opportunity: adorable chirping white beluga whales. From July to September, about 65,000 of them congregate in the Churchill River basin to give birth and snack on capelin and Lake Cisco fish.

“Belugas are super, super curious,” says Vanessa. “We take guests out on zodiac boats and they’ll come right out to the boat and check them out.” Other adventure outfitters use kayaks and stand-up paddleboards.

Paul Souders/Stone/Getty Images
Paul Souders/Stone/Getty Images
Paul Souders/Stone/Getty Images

Travel to Canada from the outside world is pretty much at a halt (save for a few exceptions), but for those who are able to access them Churchill’s tours are currently operating at a lower capacity. While we wait, it’s a good time to save up pennies and plan ahead. Tours from outfitters like Lazy Bear Expeditions, Great White Bear Tours, and Frontiers North Adventures begin at $400 for one day, up to multi-day excursions for around $5,000. Book the tours as far ahead as you can-they fill up fast.

The most extraordinary encounters might happen at Churchill Wild, where you can actually walk amongst the polar bears. Each of their three luxury ecolodges-with multi-day packages beginning at $9550-require an extra plane ride to access, which allows for spectacular aerial wildlife spotting: “When you’re flying into the lodges you often see bears that are down along that coastline,” says Vanessa.  “And then in the summer you can see beluga whales.” On the property, bears sometimes come right up to your cabin (pretty wild when you’re having dinner, or are like, naked).

Photo courtesy of Churchill Wild
Photo courtesy of Churchill Wild
Photo courtesy of Churchill Wild

Churchill Wild offers 12 different experiences, ranging from a relatively sedate polar bear photo safari, to their summer Birds, Bears and Belugas excursions, to a 14-day immersion at their ultra-remote Nanuk Lodge nestled between the Arctic coastline and the Boreal forest. Guides have prior expertise in brown bear or grizzly bear guiding and, as per government guidelines, keep the group 100 meters away. But that doesn’t mean the bears can’t wander over to you.

“Sometimes they’re curious about us and come in a bit closer,” says Vanessa. “They want to see who we are and what we’re doing there.”

If they get too close, guides are equipped with starter pistols and other devices to make noise. But sometimes, all it takes is the human voice. “These bears are used to living in a very quiet environment so often just talking to them does the trick,” explains Vanessa. “Sometimes you just have to say ‘Hey there, that’s close enough, back up.'”

Vanita Salisbury is Thrillist’s Senior Travel Writer. If she ever met a polar bear she would probably just ask about its hopes and dreams. 

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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