Travel

This Dreamy French Countryside Is Basically A Living Romance Novel

Dream of white horses, skinny French cowboys, and rosé this Valentine's Day.

Peter Adams/Stone/Getty Images
Peter Adams/Stone/Getty Images
Peter Adams/Stone/Getty Images

They stomp through the marshes in herds called manades, seemingly transplanted from the cover of a romance novel. Wind whips through their white manes as the saltwater splashes their glistening hooves. They’ve evolved to the point that they no longer need shoes; these majestic beasts are sturdy and tough, able to withstand hazardous conditions. They’re also kind of short, but don’t say that to their faces. 

Known as the “horse of the sea,” the white Camargue is said to be one of the oldest breeds in the world, galloping into icon status for this untame French region of the same name, where the Rhone meets the Mediterranean.
 
An isolated, sparsely-populated wetland of rice paddies, rose-colored salt flats, and isolated beaches, the region of Camargue is also home to over 400 species of birds, including pink long-legged flamingos, seemingly an anomaly without their usual counterparts of balmy weather or Golden Girls. Birdwatchers can get their fill at the Parc Ornithological wildlife reserve housed in the Regional National Park, where your chances of glimpsing the Camargue horses running semi-wild also increase.
 
It’s a pretty good life for the horses, which number less than 4,000 in total. Today they have owners, and some have jobs herding or giving rides to tourists. But for the most part they run free in their respective enclosures, whipping their hair in haughty disdain at passersby.

Peter Adams/Stone/Getty Images
Peter Adams/Stone/Getty Images
Peter Adams/Stone/Getty Images

For 500 years the horses’ keepers have also been star attractions. Now the last of their kind in Europe in a profession bestowed by birth, these French cowboys-known as gardians-are fitting fixtures in this wild west. Rugged yet elegant and French-skinny, they don subtle flared trousers and short-brimmed hats that would be at home in Brooklyn. Like all cowboys (probably) they have an affinity for cheese, but they likely pair theirs with a nice rosé rather than whiskey.

The gardians wield a long pole with a trident on the end (said to be a gift from Poseidon) to subdue the other animals in their care: the wild Camargue black bulls. The cattle- also French skinny-are used for the traditional sport of course camarguaise, a bloodless, more humane version of bull running than its Spanish counterpart. It happens in a 2,000 year-old arena in Arles and surrounding villages from April through October, with the most prestigious, the La Cocarde d’Or, taking place on the first Monday of July. 

Here humans are more in danger than the animals. Raseteurs-runners-compete to snatch a rosette or tassel off the bull’s horns before getting the heck out of the way. The bulls may be skinny, but the horns are sharp. And they are basically local celebrities: Their names are written on the posters for the matches alongside the rasteurs. One particular star, Goya, has his own statue in the town of Baucaire. 

pixelshop/Shutterstock
pixelshop/Shutterstock
pixelshop/Shutterstock

Painting the whole scene a dreamy hue is the nearby Salin d’Aigues-Mortes salt flats, pink thanks to micro algae which elsewhere would be eaten by small shrimp. Here, for whatever reason, the shrimp have no desire to preserve themselves in high concentrations of salt. Visitors can tour the salt flats before stocking up on fleur de sel treasure, flakes of salt manually harvested from the top of the flats after evaporation, regarded by those in the know as the caviar of salt.

Reflected in the pink of the salt flats is the majestic Aigues-Mortes, a walled medieval city built in 1302. Today the fortified walls, once the home of Crusaders, surround restaurants, hotels, boutiques, and galleries-and tourists, who come for nougat and jaunty gardian hats for souvenirs.

But no trip to the Camargue is complete without stopping by the Domaine Royal de Jarras winery for its famous Pink Flamingo rosé. The pink stuff-kissed with cool salty Mediterranean air, its vines preposterously latched in sandy soil-was made here long before it was a ubiquitous staple of summer. And on property is another opportunity to see the Camargue horses, as the winery owns a manade of over 60 mares and stallions.

They run free and pity you as you chug by on a little tourist train.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTwitterPinterestYouTubeTikTok, and Snapchat!

Vanita Salisbury is Thrillist’s Senior Travel Writer. She once rode a Camargue horse. The horse was not into it. 

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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