Travel

Relive Summer Camp at This Restorative Maine Retreat

Pines, pancakes, and musical theater productions await at Quisisana Resort.

Quisisana Resort
Quisisana Resort
Quisisana Resort

A long winding road weaves its way into the pines. It’s a Saturday in July and for two hours my kids have been asking about water skiing, about last year’s performance of Shrek, and about giant pancakes and crisp morning waffles to come. We’re en route to Quisisana Resort in Central Lovell, Maine for the second year in a row, one blissful week in a Wi-Fi-free cabin in the woods. 

Open since 1947, Quisisana is an all-inclusive, seven-day retreat in Maine’s Lakes Region. Owned by Sam and Nathalie Orans, the 40-cottage property sits on bright blue Lake Kezar, from which you can see the outline of New Hampshire’s White Mountains. A week here is meant to be restorative. Guests stay in tidy, one-to-three-bedroom pine-clad cabins outfitted with air conditioning, front porches, and (in some cases) fireplaces, but devoid of televisions or unnecessary digital distractions. Our own cottage, Fantasia, boasts two bedrooms, a sizable living room, and a view of the lake in all its permutations: morning fog, midday cerulean blue, and evening sunset in hazy oranges and pinks, which we watch from rocking chairs on the porch.

Quisisana Resort
Quisisana Resort
Quisisana Resort

Each day at Quisisana-Quisi, among friends-is slow, but slow can be rapturous when you’re summering in Maine. My kids like to play a round or two of Skee-Ball (no loose change required) in the game room after breakfast before heading down to the waterfront. The weather is rainy this week, but the water is glassy, too, and we spend mid-mornings coaxing both of my boys onto tiny fiberglass water skis. Up at the lodge, anyone is free to grab a board game, a copy of the New York Times crossword, or a paperback on loan, in case time feels endless. But for us, it always feels too short here.

At Quisi, it’s not unusual to encounter guests who have come back year after year. In our second summer, we begin to recognize faces, places, stories. A couple from outside of Philadelphia. An avid water-skier from New Jersey. We run into one another throughout the day as we swim to the raft, walk through the property’s wooded trails in search of blueberries, or stroll through the manicured perennial gardens near the tennis courts.

Quisisana Resort
Quisisana Resort
Quisisana Resort

Guests are assigned the same table in the large dining room for each meal of their stay, staffed by the same team of servers, who are almost certain to be performers in the evening’s de rigueur performances. Quisisana’s classically trained staff performs musicals, operas, instrumental concerts, and musical revues, with performances each slated to a specific night or matinee of the week; this year, one highlight included an epic trip to England, via Harvey Fierstein’s clever, rollicking Kinky Boots.

Breakfast is served in the dining room between 8 and 9:15, and it’s an a la carte affair. Executive Chef Andrew Vogel is now spending his second summer in this position, but has worked at Quisisana for six total summers, and even met his wife here in 2013, when she worked the garde manger station in the kitchen and sang musical theater at night. He serves up large-as-a-plate pancakes, a recipe that dates back to the 1980s, which one of my children prefers to order with chocolate chips.

Quisisana Resort
Quisisana Resort
Quisisana Resort

“I can give you the Quisisana pancake recipe off the back of my hand right now,” quips Vogel. Keeping some culinary traditions of this classic resort intact, he explains, is essential to its DNA, but he also likes to mix things up. “We’re not losing the identity,” Vogel says. “But you can also unexpectedly get a plate of bone marrow on Friday night.” Last year, in fact, I did get one of those memorable plates, served with a wild Maine blueberry and bacon jam.

To announce lunch and dinner, rotating members of the dining room staff ring a chime, and guests collect themselves from beach chairs down at the lake, or from their front porches. Meals build with a quiet intensity as the week progresses. Each morning, guests choose from a set menu of appetizers, entrees, and desserts to enjoy later in the day: lobster risotto on Saturday night, seared duck breast and duck leg confit on Wednesday, pistachio-crusted lamb saddle on Friday.

“The menu itself is intentionally designed,” Vogel says. “It kind of starts and slowly keeps building-the wow factor, the presentation, the technique and cooking-so that by the time you make it to Friday night, that menu is intentional.”

Photo courtesy of Quisisana Resort
Photo courtesy of Quisisana Resort
Photo courtesy of Quisisana Resort

An evening cocktail hour on the porch-an open-air space that seems to float among the towering pines-allows for casual mingling. Tuesday night is an informal party, with appetizers. On Wednesday, guests enjoy cheese and charcuterie. But for me, the highlight is Thursday, when Vogel assembles a pre-dinner raw bar featuring Mere Point, Johns River, Waverider, Flying Point, and Norumbega oysters, all local to Maine.

On our last evening, an amuse bouche (chicken liver mousse beneath a layer of burnt honey gelée and pickled Maine blueberries) arrives with a crisp baguette crostini. The final dessert, a chocolate hazelnut dacquoise, layered with coffee crémeux and served with a chocolate pine cone filled with dark chocolate mousse, is a luxurious parting gift from pastry chef Shannon Mahoney, a bittersweet adieu from this perfectly relaxing place.

Have we taken any photos of the food during our stay at Quisisana? Of the lake? Of the setting sun? Not really. Or, at least, not many. After a week without cell service, we’ve long forgotten about likes and posts and re-posts. There will be time for that soon enough, when we’re back in the real world. But for now, with our week in Maine coming to a close, it’s enough just to sit back and reflect on another experience among the Quisisana pines.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Hannah Selinger is a contributor for Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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