Travel

The Modernist Pool of Your Dreams Is Inches from Normandy’s Beaches

Take a dip in this architectural marvel.

Sandrine Boyer Engel/Deauville
Sandrine Boyer Engel/Deauville
Sandrine Boyer Engel/Deauville

Throughout Normandy, France, you’ll find a profusion of medieval-looking, half-timbered homes. The fairytale houses offer a stark contrast to the ghostly bunkers on the surrounding beaches where World War II’s most famous battle raged. Thousands flock to Normandy to partake in D-Day tourism every year, an experience that is moving and significant-and emotionally wearying. Luckily, in the seaside town of Deauville, there’s an oasis.

In this region of sharp visual contrasts, the resort town is home to one of norther France’s most pleasantly alluring surprises: the Piscine Olympique. This gorgeous Modernist swimming complex offers a serene respite from historical solemnity and serves as a stunning reminder that the beaches of Normandy aren’t just for history buffs.

Hemis/Alamy
Hemis/Alamy
Hemis/Alamy

The Piscine Olympique is the vision of French architect Roger Taillibert, who completed the project in 1966. He went on to design the Olympic complex in Montreal (despite the name, Deauville has not hosted the Olympics), the Parc des Princes football stadium in Paris, and other projects.

The complex has a unique nautical flair: white pre-stressed concrete “sails” pitched in ridges constitute its exterior and create a resulting concave/convex ceiling inside. The building sits directly on the beach (d’eau means “of water”) and draws the water for its two pools directly from the sea. Architect Arrol Gellner, who co-wrote Storybook Style: Whimsical Homes of the 1920s with Douglas Keister, says of the pool, “It has a softness that’s kind of comparable to the old, worn Normandy architecture. It’s not angular, not mechanical at all-as a Modernist building, it’s kind of warm and fuzzy.”

Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone/Getty Images
Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone/Getty Images
Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone/Getty Images

Swimming in such an extraordinary space is a multi-sensory experience, as glass walls show the beauty just outside and bring in light. Noted Lebanese-American architect Charles Debbas points out that the concrete shell structure permits the interior to be monumental: “As the day goes by and light changes, you have a greater variety of experiences in there.”

Sandrine Chardon, head of communication for the inDeauville tourism organization, says the Piscine Olympique received an average of 275 visitors a day this summer. My family and I were happy to be among them on an overcast summer day as dark clouds hovered over the curved white structure. After days of visiting museums, bunkers, and war cemeteries, it felt good to stop being a tourist and just float.

Sandrine Boyer Engel/Deauville
Sandrine Boyer Engel/Deauville
Sandrine Boyer Engel/Deauville

The pools-one family friendly, one for lap swimmers-were pristine, no doubt because of the rigid rules one must follow to enter them. Visitors are required to shower, wear a swim cap (more on that later), and walk through two shallow pools of about 8 inches deep to cleanse their feet before entering the main pool, which is heated to a balmy 80 degrees Fahrenheit year-round.

However, it wasn’t the inexpensive dip we’d envisioned. Incidentals mounted to €100 (currently, the equivalent of $109). We had purchased towels beforehand (it would have been €3 for a half-hour rental for each of us), but were caught unaware by other unexpected charges.

Paul POUGNET/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Paul POUGNET/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Paul POUGNET/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

My husband was prevented from going in the pool because his board shorts weren’t allowed. He was sent to the vending machine to purchase a €15 Speedo… something he thought he’d never in his life wear. Similarly, I was wearing a two-piece, and my modest swim shorts were deemed “too sexy” by the lifeguard on duty. In an inspired moment, I realized my black underwear looked exactly the same as what was in the vending machine for women, so I returned to the locker room to put them back on, thus cavorting on vacation in my underwear and saving a little money.

Sandrine Boyer/Deauville
Sandrine Boyer/Deauville
Sandrine Boyer/Deauville

And a final hurdle: all four of us had to purchase a soft cloth swim bonnet branded “Deauville” on the side (essentially a swim cap, but liltingly called a “sweem bonnay” by the front-desk person) to cover our hair and feel like Esther Williams aquacade hopefuls. The plus side of this unexpected souvenir? We have them for next time.

Hemis/Alamy
Hemis/Alamy
Hemis/Alamy

Our trip to Normandy gave us plenty of photos and memories. We visited German bunkers and Sainte-Mère-Eglise church, whose roof features a mannequin with its parachute straps caught in the pinnacle (the real guy lived to tell the tale). We even saw the site where Joan of Arc was burned.

Yet for an afternoon we floated. It was a serene counterpoint to all the heavy-hearted sites we’d visited. And since we got to France by way of London, now when I hear the childhood rhyme, “I see London, I see France, I see someone’s underpants,” I will reflect that I actually lived it.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Erika Mailman is a contributor for Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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