Travel

The Little Jazz Bar with Legendary Status in Chiang Mai, Thailand

From the warmth to the tunes, the North Gate Jazz Co-Op is a Chiang Mai institution.

Ai Han/Shutterstock
Ai Han/Shutterstock
Ai Han/Shutterstock

It’s just past 8 pm in Chiang Mai, Thailand. The sun has set and a cool mountain breeze from nearby Doi Suthep sweeps through the northern Thai city. Its moat sparkles from a scattering of lamp posts, a calming sight when compared with the neon LED signs that hang above the city’s endless rows of shophouses.

Some temple-hopping travelers are ready for bed, while others are headed out for the night, stomachs filled with pad thai. Among them, no doubt, are those making a pilgrimage to the legendary North Gate Jazz Co-Op, which has become a mandatory stop on a night out in Chiang Mai. Open seven nights a week from 8 until midnight, the North Gate has grown to be an institution and a staple in the city’s cultural scene since it opened 15 years ago. Locals know it, and tourists from near and far make an effort to visit at least once while they’re in the area.

Ai Han/Shutterstock
Ai Han/Shutterstock
Ai Han/Shutterstock

A live music venue like this one may seem like it’s there for tourists’ sake, but it’s the local artists who drive its spirit. The North Gate is an embodiment of founder Pharadon ‘Por’ Phonamnuai’s vision of making jazz music accessible to all, and inspiring everyone who passes through this space along the way.

In 2009, with his saxophone in tow and just over $500 USD to his name, Phonamnuai made his way from Chiang Mai to Paris. He did the trip totally overland, and his purpose was simply to learn and see more of the world. A few years after returning home from his travels, the North Gate Jazz Co-Op was born.

North Gate Jazz Co-Op
North Gate Jazz Co-Op
North Gate Jazz Co-Op

The establishment gets its name from its location on the corner of a busy intersection just across from the Chang Phuak Gate. Walk through its doors and you’ll see that a few framed pictures adorn the pale beige concrete walls of the interior; think portraits of John Coltrane and Louis Armstrong. A small black-and-white photo of musicians standing outside of a Harlem jazz and blues club from the 1950s hangs just beside the bar. Seating consists of a handful of long benches that face the stage, and a couple of tiny stools for good measure. Wander up to the cozy second floor that overlooks the stage and you’ll find a few small tables and chairs. But most patrons choose to stand so they can catch as much of the action as possible, and the crowd typically spills onto the street corner as the night goes on.

Ai Han/Shutterstock
Ai Han/Shutterstock
Ai Han/Shutterstock

Entrance is free, but buying drinks to support the cause is very much encouraged. Simple cocktails and ice cold bottles of Chang beer make their way across the room, a refreshingly humble offering compared to what you’ll find at the glitzy rooftop bars and lounges just a mile north in the expat-friendly Nimman district.

You never know exactly what you’ll get during a night out at the North Gate, and that’s kind of the point. Tuesday is open mic night, Sunday night is usually slow jazz, and on Fridays you can catch local musicians belting out some of their favorite hip-hop or rock tunes. Stay until closing time and you’ll end up dancing with strangers from all walks of life. The music isn’t always jazz, but the vibe usually is.

North Gate Jazz Co-Op
North Gate Jazz Co-Op
North Gate Jazz Co-Op

I first visited the North gate in the summer of 2014 and found myself drawn in by the warm and welcoming environment. Almost six years later, I made sure to return. Its warmth remained, as did its enthusiastic crowd. The same picture of Thai King Rama IX hung high above the stage, looking over the musicians as if in blessing.

I find myself searching for something like the North Gate in every new city that I visit, but nothing really compares to the one in Chiang Mai. It’s a small piece of jazz in a part of the world where a concept like “jazz” might not be your first thought, but it just works. And its uniqueness is really part of the appeal-after all, it means you’ll always find yourself drawn back for another night.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Jennifer Richardson is a contributor for Thrillist. She first visited the North Gate in 2014, and returned in 2020.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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