Travel

Every Castle, Ancient Fortress, and Lighthouse You Can Rent in Italy

How often do you get to say you slept in a medieval pirate's tower?

Castello di Naro
Castello di Naro
Castello di Naro

Imagine watching the sunset over Sardinia’s cliffs from your own private lighthouse or waking up to seagull cries from a medieval pirate fortress. With many people feeling a lingering caution about crowded, cramped places ever since the pandemic, it’s no wonder ordinary hotels are so over. That’s even more true when you have the opportunity to experience Italy’s picturesque architectural heritage as an exclusive guest. After all, if you’re finally going to Italy, why not stay in a castle?

Renting old, stunning fortresses, lighthouses, and castles-and even former tuna factories-offers a throwback and probably the most unique place you’ll ever be able to say you stayed in. It’s the latest travel fad: with COVID still out there, many crave more space all to themselves, whether booking the whole place for a weekend or a special event, such as a birthday or destination wedding.

From Sicily to Tuscany and Sardinia, have breakfast on sun-kissed panoramic terraces and frescoed tower suites where great lords and ladies once rubbed shoulders, wearing lavish gowns and throwing balls. Art and history are intertwined in many Italian towns, so here are a few places where you’ll feel like the king of your own little kingdom.

Tonnara di Scopello
Tonnara di Scopello
Tonnara di Scopello

Tonnara di Scopello tuna fortress

Tuna trapping facilities (called tonnare in Italian) have been banned, but after years of decay, they are now experiencing a revival. This ancient, tiny tuna fortress near the city of Trapani in Sicily is located in the pristine Zingaro marine reserve, sitting in front of huge sea stacks of rock jutting out of the water.

At the base of a cliff topped by a lookout tower are a few elegantly restyled reddish stone dwellings with private porch-decks where you can park a dinghy or canoe. You’ll get to sleep in majolica-tiled suites with fish-motif decor, which were once the lodgings of the tuna fishers, as well as the warehouses for storing boats and tuna processing. Stone bathrooms are carved into the rock, while each room has private exotic gardens and beach access.

Nature and snorkelling fans, this one’s for you. At dawn or sunset, jump out of bed, open the front door, and dive right into the clear water with a big splash. Also included is everything for a relaxing escape: hammocks for reading or lounging, fennel liqueur drinks served in sun-kissed courtyards, and fresh sea urchins for dinner right from the fisherman’s net.

Castello di Scipione dei Marchesi Pallavicino
Castello di Scipione dei Marchesi Pallavicino
Castello di Scipione dei Marchesi Pallavicino

Castle of Scipione

Walking inside this medieval castle, you’ll find frescoed green-and-purple suites, salons with plush cushioned armchairs and high-end fabrics, and great halls with antique furnishing where Italian aristocrats ruled over their county. The Castle of Scipione, set in the Emilia Romagna region and built in the 14th century, comes with just two exclusive, romantic suites with a private garden and entrance, wooden ceilings, ancient terracotta floors, and a stunning view of the surrounding forests where nobles once hunted.

The two-floor Blue Suite is located in the watchtower, and comes with a marble bathroom, while the Green Suite, right behind the old drawbridge, boasts a ceiling-high fireplace. Both have their own fully equipped kitchenette, but guests are still treated to fine Tuscan dishes of wild hare and handmade tortellini at the en-suite restaurant.

Be prepared to bump into the heirs of the old aristocratic family that still runs the estate. You can also opt to rent the whole palace-stables and all-for a special occasion.

Capofaro Locanda & Malvasia
Capofaro Locanda & Malvasia
Capofaro Locanda & Malvasia

Capo Faro resort lighthouse

Imagine sleeping in a sleek, white lighthouse surrounded by lush vineyards that produce sweet amber-coloured wine called Malvasia, dubbed the “nectar of the gods.” Part of an estate run by an old aristocratic family, the seafront lighthouse sits on the volcanic island of Salina, the pearl of the Aeolian archipelago, which is a green paradise that has two twin peaks. The refurbished hotel now boasts 27 rooms, including a suite with a kitchen for private dinners, with terraces that look out to sea, as well as a pool made of black rocks.

As gorgeous as the location and views are, there’s something truly special about drinking premium wine on the patio of a sun-drenched terrace surrounded by the scent of those same vines, which are exclusive to this isle thanks to fertile soil and the sultry heat. The tantalizing drink (which is also used in the onsite restaurant today) was loved by British admiral Horatio Nelson’s navy that often partied in these waters in the 1700’s, fueled by golden Malvasia.

Only Fabrizio/Shutterstock
Only Fabrizio/Shutterstock
Only Fabrizio/Shutterstock

Salvucci Tower

Living like a lord in the middle ages wasn’t always easy, even if you had a whole fortress to yourself. There were no elevators and dozens of stairs. But for those who relish unique adventures, imagine vacationing in a fortified tower where your accommodation is stretched across 11 floors of a narrow tower with thick stone walls.

The Salvucci Tower in the enchanting Tuscan village of San Gimignano is perhaps one of the most quirky accommodation options in Italy. San Gimignano is known as “the village of the many towers,” and this is the only habitable one.

Prepare to stretch your muscles going up and down 143 steps to get from your bed to the bathroom, kitchen, or mezzanine. There are only three beds and two bathrooms in the entire 11-floor tower, which you would have completely to yourself. The best part, though, might just be the panoramic rooftop, great for an evening Negroni or a candle-lit truffle pasta dinner prepared by a private chef.

Faro Capo Spartivento
Faro Capo Spartivento
Faro Capo Spartivento

Faro Capo Spartivento lighthouse

Located in the secluded bay of Chia on the island of Sardinia, you can have this watchtower all to yourself for a superb holiday. Built in 1865 on top of a cliff, the reddish lighthouse, still functioning, has been converted to just six luxury suites with sunrise and sunset views, surrounded by translucent waters and solitary inlets.

The on-site restaurant, open only to hotel guests, serves breakfast and intimate dinners on the terrace. They create locally-sourced dishes including seafood, handmade Malloreddus pasta, and Sardinian pecorino sheep cheese. You can also opt to have your evening drinks, with the best Sardinian wines such as Vermentino di Gallura, served at the panoramic pool.

Castello di Naro
Castello di Naro
Castello di Naro

Fortress of Naro

This majestic medieval fortress at the top of a cliff is located in the secluded region of Marche, surrounded by forests, rivers, and sleepy villages. Once home to a proud princess-warrior, it is now a little-known retreat where guests can live in a chunk of history.

The suites are lavishly decorated with ornate sculptures, paintings, and old furniture. The bathrooms are sheer luxury, featuring painted frescoes and chromotherapy showers. The old ice storage room is now used as the wine cellar, while you can visit the old cistern, once used to collect water. There’s also an underground rock spa if you want more pampering. Or have fun looking for the secret passageway said to be located underground.

One of the most charming parts about the rental is the panoramic gardens. There you’ll find a huge stone patio featuring comfy sofa beds, where you can unwind, enjoy the mountain views, and sip a Martini with premium local Ascolane olives. Plus, the walkway along the fortified walls will give you a sense of what it was like to look out for approaching enemy troops.

Torre Trasita Positano
Torre Trasita Positano
Torre Trasita Positano

Trasita coastal tower

Visiting the vibrant fishing village of Positano and the spellbinding Amalfi Coast tops pretty much most travelers’ bucket lists-but staying in a unique location ups the game. This 1300’s pirate lookout tower is carved into the side of a cliff and stretches down to the translucent waters below, which according to mythology were inhabited by mermaids. The property even has a private path leading down to the inlets and beaches.

The white-washed interiors of the Trasita tower make for cool panoramic suites, but you’ll most likely be spending your time at the pool and suntanning or taking a siesta on the multi-layered stone terraces dotted with lounge chairs. From the gardens and rooftop, where guards once patrolled, the view stretches all the way to the Li Galli archipelago.

In the morning, before indulging in an iconic ricotta-filled Pastiera cake, jump right off one of the rocky platforms at the foot of the tower and go for a swim-or skinny dip! From the windows of the three suites, you’ll be so close to the water it’ll feel as if the sea is about to wash up right into your room. At a walking distance from Positano village but tucked into its own quiet corner, the tower guarantees utter privacy and silence.

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Silvia Marchetti is a contributor for Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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