Travel

The Laid-Back “Anti-Florida” Is the Ideal Winter Island Escape

Where Florida achieves its full potential.

Jeff Greenberg / Contributor / getty images
Jeff Greenberg / Contributor / getty images
Jeff Greenberg / Contributor / getty images

I love my family. But every now and then, we all need an escape. And while visiting family in South Florida over the holidays for the past decade-plus, I found just the spot.
 
You won’t find Florida Man gators or spring breakers doing body shots here-just a beautiful natural area stuffed with gorgeous beaches, sprawling nature preserves, some of the world’s best shelling, and sunsets that might prompt you to dial up real-estate listings.
 
Sanibel Island ain’t exactly a secret. With around 3 million vehicles making the journey onto the island each year, this popular winter vacation destination is easily accessible via a breezy 45-minute drive from Fort Myers over on Florida’s more relaxed Gulf Coast.With tight restrictions that lock out high-rise buildings and most chain restaurants, Sanibel’s vibe is easily distinguishable from the overdeveloped Florida of our collective nightmares. Basically, this is what Florida would look like if it lived up to its full potential: No traffic lights or seedy “VIP” lounges. Call it Florida’s “anti-Florida.”
 
While Fort Myers sports more of the spring break-ish vibe you might be traditionally accustomed to, Sanibel is nothing but chill. Once you get off the main road into town, that is. Periwinkle Way (the island’s curiously named chief artery) gets quite backed up on busy winter weekends, so plan for a little gridlock. Yet once you get off the main road, you realize in short order why you made the trip.

Paul Carter / EyeEm / getty images
Paul Carter / EyeEm / getty images
Paul Carter / EyeEm / getty images

Chill out on some of Florida’s best beaches

Sanibel and its even homier and more remote sister island Captiva are known for their world-renowned beaches showcasing soft white sand and absurdly glorious sunsets. Pretty much any place you stay will have its own sliver of sand, with top public beach options including the popular Blind Pass Beach and the somewhat more secluded Bowman’s Beach

Interestingly, some of the most overlooked waterfront real estate can be found right off the main bridge into town at Causeway Islands Park. Sanibel is also known as one of the world’s finest shelling destinations, so don’t be surprised to see a bunch of hunched-over locals combing the sand in a posture colloquially known as the “Sanibel Stoop.” 

Go island hopping

One look at the crystal clear Gulf of Mexico waters will instantly have you contemplating your watercraft options. Sure, you could buy a boat. Then again, you could also hire a local tour boat operator like Captiva Cruises, which makes regular runs to nearby islands like the relatively chic Boca Grande and the more old-school Cabbage Key, which is best experienced between the dollar bill-adorned walls of the delightfully Old Florida-style restaurant at Cabbage Key Inn. But if you only have one option, by all means opt for the excursion to the “secret beach” at Cayo Costa State Park. With nine miles of pristine undeveloped beach only accessible by boat, it’s easily one of the top state parks in the nation.

Jeff Greenberg / Contributor / getty images
Jeff Greenberg / Contributor / getty images
Jeff Greenberg / Contributor / getty images

Hang with eagles and gators in a wildlife refuge

Two-thirds of Sanibel Island is actually a nature preserve, with the 6,400-acre J.N. Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge providing an interesting alternative to the beach scene and a healthy dose of local flavor. The largest undeveloped mangrove ecosystem in the country hosts around 250 species of birds plus hiking trails, a scenic loop drive, and even a tram. Look around for eagles, watch out for gators, and get lost in the marshes. In short, it’s a pretty low-risk way to spend a few hours when you need a break from the sun.

Where to eat

If all that adventuring has made you hungry, it’s time to turn your attention to Sanibel’s satisfying food scene. The Mucky Duck on Captiva is a legendary beachside hang for patio cocktails and games of ring toss on the beach before sunset, while The Mad Hatter is a romantic spot serving up more high-end Florida classics with a touch of French sophistication in cozy cottage-style environs on the waterfront. 

For something quick and easy before heading to the beach, it’s hard to beat a freshly made deli sandwich from Sanibel Deli (where the pizza is also surprisingly on point), while Gramma Dot’s is another top-shelf waterfront eatery that should be high on your hit list for dockside eats in a homey Cape Cod-style cafe where a lobster roll and cup of clam chowder will have you fitting in nicely.

For more of a local feel, grabbing a drink and a burger at the character-filled American Legion Post 123 might just be the highlight of your trip. Simply pull up a stool (it’s open to the public) and start chatting up a wonderfully diverse crowd from grizzled old-timers to curious newbies. The locals are happy to offer advice on everything from the top fishing holes to the best spots to hide out from their wives for some low-key day drinking (hint: it’s here.) And you definitely won’t have to suffer through any Jimmy Buffett.

Sanibel Island Beach Resort
Sanibel Island Beach Resort
Sanibel Island Beach Resort

Where to stay

Sanibel is not at all known for being budget-friendly in the area of accommodations, so those looking to save a few bucks are encouraged to crash at the La Quinta in Fort Myers just across from the island. On the island itself, the Sanibel Island Beach Resort offers all the comfort you need in a good location at a reasonable rate (as well as an A-plus tiki bar steps from the beach.) But for only a few shekels more, you can also dial up a more high-end stay at the iconic South Seas Island Resort on Captiva, a sprawling activity-rich complex set along two miles of beach fully equipped with its own shuttles and golf carts.

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Jay Gentile is an award-winning freelance journalist specializing in travel, food & drink, culture, events and entertainment stories. In addition to Thrillist, you can find his work in The Washington Post, The Guardian, CNN Travel, Chicago Tribune, Lonely Planet, VICE, Outside Magazine, and more. Follow @thejaygentile.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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