Travel

Explore the Funky Art Towns and Desert Beauty of West Texas

It's a hell of a drive, but well worth the journey.

Martin Robles/Unsplash
Martin Robles/Unsplash
Martin Robles/Unsplash

Texas being the largest state in the lower forty-eight is just an abstract fun fact… until you actually have to drive across it. A few hours in the car often gets you exactly nowhere, a frustrating truth until you decide nowhere is exactly where you want to be. 

That’s the ideal outlook for a road trip to far West Texas. Removed from just about everything in the best ways, the hours melt into the horizon as you roll steadily past mile after mile of dry, desolate rangeland and on to “nearby” towns like Marfa. 

“Flat” and “boring,” the uninspired will quip, but this sprawling landscape is also punctuated by exhilarating moments of natural beauty, world-class art, funky towns, big sunsets, and oddball surprises that are well worth the long journey. Take your time and fall into the change of pace-the vibe, if you will-that each area offers. 

There’s a good chance Marfa is your final destination, or maybe Big Bend, one of the most far-flung and underrated national parks we’ve got-a mountainous dreamscape for kayaking, star-gazing, and working road-weary legs. But we’ve got a lot of ground to cover before you get there.

Chase Fountain
Chase Fountain
Chase Fountain

Things to see on the drive to West Texas

Embrace “the journey is the destination” mindset and prepare for a full day of transit. Even flying into El Paso or Midland, the two closest cities with commercial airports, still leaves you with a substantial drive. Hopefully, you can budget time to stop at these natural wonders along the way:

The Caverns of Sonora
If you’re coming from Austin, San Antonio, or Houston on I-10
The founder of a National Speleological Society (read: group of dudes who love exploring caves) once said “its beauty cannot be exaggerated, even by a Texan.” Daily guided tours of this remarkable cave system last just shy of two hours and take you 155 feet below the earth’s surface. A ticket costs around $120 but is good for up to 6 people. Sonora is also a great halfway point between San Antonio and Big Bend. 

Monahans Sandhills State Park
If you’re coming from Dallas-Fort Worth on I-20
Like a massive Japanese Zen garden, these natural sand dunes are ever-changing and worth stomping around after a few hours behind the wheel. Not far from Midland, stop here for a picnic or sled down the swirling dunes on rentable plastic lids if you’re so inclined. Entry is $4.

Balmorhea State Park
A can’t-miss from any direction
Time to bust out your swimsuit. Near the crossroads of I-20 and I-10, you’ll find a literal oasis in the middle of the desert: the largest spring-fed swimming pool in the world. Recharge in the cold, clear waters and get a glimpse of tiny endangered pupfish, found only in the San Soloman springs. Open daily, entry costs $7; buy a day pass in advance to guarantee a spot, especially on crowded weekends when the pool can reach capacity.

NICK SIMONITE
NICK SIMONITE
NICK SIMONITE

MARFA

There’s no small town in Texas with a bigger reputation than Marfa. In the early 1970s, Marfa became a refuge for the acclaimed minimalist artist Donald Judd, who laid the foundation for the thriving international art scene the town is known for today. Indisputably hip, even by big-city standards (perhaps especially by big-city standards), Marfa still manages to feel mythical and off-the-grid.

Where to stay in Marfa

Funky: El Cosmico
For an indoor/outdoor experience with little-to-no Wi-Fi, these campgrounds offer multiple modes of shelter, including a series of retro Airstream trailers, glamping-style tepees, boho yurts, and traditional campsites. If Beyoncé can stay here, so can you. Most Septembers, they host the Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love, four day of live music, food vendors, workshops, and more.

Historic: Hotel Paisano
Serving cattle ranchers, desert seekers, and the occasional celeb since the 1930s, this laidback space has been comfortably restored with a courtyard, souvenir shop, and plenty of Old West flair. Head to the onsite restaurant, Jett’s Grill, for a mean chicken fried steak.

Contemporary: Hotel Saint George
This sophisticated space is packed with art and features a sleek restaurant, bar, outdoor pool area, and an excellent bookstore, Marfa Book Co.

Things to do in Marfa

Drive out to Prada Marfa
Equal parts roadside kitsch and public art sculpture, Marfa’s most iconic attraction is not in Marfa at all, but about 37 miles from town on Highway 90 near Valentine, TX. The eternally-closed Prada store replica has occupied this patch of lonely prairie since 2005.

Try to spot the Marfa Lights
These mysterious, greenish yellow lights appear across the Chihuahuan desert on clear nights. First reported in 1883, they have stumped scientists ever since. Are they just static electricity? Swamp gas? Passing cars? UFOs? Come up with your own theories at the viewing station on Highway 90 between Marfa and Alpine. The lights have also inspired the long-running (and free to attend) Marfa Lights Festival, where you can catch live music and a parade.

View the art at Chinati Foundation
No visit to Marfa is complete without visiting this contemporary art space founded by Donald Judd. Wander the grounds on a self-guided tour and take in the large-scale concrete installations by Judd and his contemporaries. (They’re requiring reservations in advance, for $15, which you can make here). Related, the Judd Foundation is focused on preserving his living and working spaces in town.

Check out other art galleries in town
You could spend days visiting the world-class art galleries in Marfa-not because you want to, necessarily, but because the operating hours are so sporadic. Check online, call ahead, or wander around Highland Ave. with fingers crossed that eclectic galleries like Wrong, Ballroom Marfa, and Arber & Sons will be open.

Martin Robles/Unsplash
Martin Robles/Unsplash
Martin Robles/Unsplash

The best places to eat and drink in Marfa

Hangover cure: Marfa Burrito
The homemade tortillas really clinch this massive, and massively delicious, burrito (vegan options available!).Matthew McConaughey’s been here so you know it’s legit.

Coffee/Laundry: Frama
This cafe located inside a laundromat (it’s Marfa just go with it) also has fresh smoothies, pastries, and ice cream on hand. Wash your sweaty Big Bend clothes while you sip your cold brew with lavender syrup.

Grab and go: Food Shark
The retro food truck is kind of a big deal here, with an eclectic Mediterranean-inspired menu featuring the signature “Marfalafel” sandwich. Only open for lunch on weekends.

Pizza: Pizza Foundation
Their simple, thin-crust pies are super fresh, flavorful, and (our favorite) foldable.

Dinner: Cochineal
A multi-course, prix fixe experience from a small seasonal menu that changes on the reg. Locally sourced ingredients and veggies grown in their onsite garden-you get the drift. Right now, reservations are limited to evenings on Fridays and Saturdays.

Beer: Plant Marfa
This very chill beer garden is full of oddities like an old school bus and tepee. Word to the wise, they keep weird opening hours.

Dive bar: Lost Horse Saloon
A good spot for music and a game of pool under the friendly neon glow of some beer signs.

Visit Alpine, Texas
Visit Alpine, Texas
Visit Alpine, Texas

FORT DAVIS & ALPINE

For a glimpse of everyday living “out there” in far West Texas, swing through the towns of Fort Davis and Alpine. While a little less glamorous than Marfa, both offer easier access for exploring the trails and state parks in the area.

Where to stay

In Fort Davis:  Indian Mountain Lodge
This cool pueblo-style hotel with a restaurant and pool offers near-instant access to hiking within Davis Mountain State Park. Or find an Airbnb here.

In Alpine:  Holland Hotel
The historic boutique hotel dates back to the ‘20s and has been beautifully refurbished. The Century Grill features a secluded interior courtyard where you should definitely sip on their top-notch margaritas. Or find an Airbnb here.

Things to do near Fort Davis and Alpine

Hike in Davis Mountain State Park
You don’t expect to find “mountain” and “Texas” in the same sentence very often, and yet here we are. Take in the rugged landscape with a hike on Skyline Drive Trail, or drive the 75-mile scene loop that starts and ends in Fort Davis. 

Sit at the Sul Ross Desk
In the 1980s, some students at Sul Ross State in Alpine placed a large metal desk on top of the very large Hancock Hill behind the university. It’s still there today. Notebooks left in the desk’s drawers are filled with salutations and sage wisdoms from past visitors.

Stargaze at McDonald Observatory
Just north of Fort Davis, one of the darkest night skies in the country allows for spectacular stargazing. Gazing into the cosmos during one of their evening star parties is a must-do, so check their events calendar for dates. Otherwise they’re open Tuesdays-Saturdays. 

Where to eat and drink

In Alpine:  Magoo’s Place
A local favorite for deliciously greasy Mexican brunch, burritos, and burgers. For your morning caffeine fix, try the mod Cedar Coffee Supply downtown.

In Fort Davis:  Fort Davis Drug Store
This historic spot, with an old-fashioned soda fountain from 1950 and small art gallery upstairs, serves up hearty comfort food. For dessert grab ice cream at Herbert’s Caboose, which scoops from an authentic Burlington Northern caboose train car. 

Mick Haupt/Unsplash
Mick Haupt/Unsplash
Mick Haupt/Unsplash

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

Big Bend is the keystone to far West Texas, and one of the most gorgeous places in the state. The park’s great expanse and stunning beauty-from minimalist desertscapes to river canyons and mountain hideaways-cannot be summed up in a few words, or even a few days exploring it.

Before heading to Big Bend, make sure to fill up your gas tank first, either in Alpine, Marathon, or Terlingua (depending where you’re driving in from). It’s also a good idea to bring waaaay more water than you think you’ll need (maybe avoid the high summer months) and download maps to your phone, as cell service can be dicey. 

Where to stay near Big Bend 

Indoors:  Chisos Mountain Lodge
Perched in the heart of the park, these rustic but comfortable cottages offer scenic views and access to the park’s only restaurant. They’re operating at a reduced capacity and are now accepting reservations of 2022. Don’t expect phones, TVs, or abundant Wi-Fi, but you can catch a signal in the gift shop or patio.

Outdoors: A few favorites are the Chisos Basin Campground in the higher (read: cooler) elevations of the Chisos Mountains, and the Rio Grande Village Campground overlooking the Mexican border. If camping isn’t your jam, your best bet is to stay in Alpine or Terlingua and drive an hour into the park for the day. 

Things to do in Big Bend National Park

Explore the Chisos Mountains
The iconic centerpoint of the park, this is the only mountain range completely contained within the borders of a national park. The dramatic drive up to the mountain basin is worth the trip alone just to watch the temperature drop at least 15 degrees from the desert below. From the mountain basin you can hike to the top of Emory Peak, Big Bend’s most recognizable feature, or down the Window Trail to where the entire basin empties out into the desert.

Dip in the Rio Grande River
Take the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to Santa Elena Canyon where you can dip your toes in international waters, wave to Mexico, and hike into the 1,500-foot vertical chasm cut by the river over the eons. The Hot Springs Canyon Trail on the eastern side of the park also offers great views of the river. You can also kayak to your heart’s content.

Drive or hike in the Chihuahuan Desert
This arid, harsh desert makes up about 80% of the park, but it’s not without a certain minimalist beauty. Bluebonnets and wildflowers add a burst of color in the springtime. The Chimneys Trail off the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive has neat stone arches left by ancient lava flows.

Gaze up at the stars
Big Bend’s ultra-remote location, free and clear of any light pollution, makes it one of the best places in the country to stargaze. In fact, it’s the darkest national park in the lower 48. The park occasionally hosts star parties or moonlit walks led by rangers.

Where to eat and drink near Big Bend

Your only option: The Chisos Mountain Lodge restaurant and patio has an early morning breakfast buffet and stays open until 9 for dinner. There are three locations to buy basic supplies within the park, but if you’re planning to stay longer than an afternoon, pack-in supplies from the grocery store in Alpine.

Dallasite Hayden Bernstein is a Thrillist contributor currently plotting his next road trip on Google Maps.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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