Travel

This Ruggedly Gorgeous Section of Upstate NY Is Somehow Still Overlooked

Crystal lakes, sky-high mountains, and very comfortable chairs.

ya zhang / 500px / getty images
ya zhang / 500px / getty images
ya zhang / 500px / getty images

As a kid in coastal Massachusetts, scarcely a month went by without my Upstate-native parents whisking us away to a place where the trees got taller and the mountaintops grew higher. The Adirondacks have always felt like a second home, but in a state that’s way bigger than most realize, the region remains criminally underexplored, even as throngs of city-dwellers flock to Upstate en masse.

This expansive, quiet corner of one of the most populous states nurtured my deep respect for true natural beauty from an early age. I caught my first fish in the waters of Lake George and made one of my first ski runs on the slopes of Gore Mountain. I took my first hike at Pilot Knob and learned to ice skate on the same frozen ponds my grandmother did as a child in Lake Placid. Whether it’s summer or winter, the first hit I get of the uniquely fresh air makes me feel like I’ve gone home to a place where I’ve never held an address.

But the best thing about this part of the state is that what feels like a remote wilderness is actually a relatively short drive from New York City, Philadelphia, and Boston. You can access so much of the state’s beauty just by heading up the Northway (what the locals call I-87 above the capital) and choosing where to stop along the way to the Canadian border. If you need to feel an abundance of nature but can’t board a flight right now, you can still get your fill just by heading due north from all these cities and letting yourself take it all in. Here’s where to start.

Enrico Della Pietra/Shutterstock
Enrico Della Pietra/Shutterstock
Enrico Della Pietra/Shutterstock

Saratoga Springs

It’s hard to talk about Saratoga Springs without making it sound like a made-up village where Gilmore Girls could’ve been set. But this town of 28,000 has been thriving since long before the conflict between Team Jesse and Team Logan started in earnest: It was the site of a seminal Revolutionary War battle as well as a 19th-century health and wellness destination.

The latter put the place on the map, as thousands flocked from the cities to drink from the dozens of mineral springs (you’ll still spot the drinking fountains around town) and relax at the famous European-style spa. More recently, the city’s mega-famous horse rack gained pop-culture immortality when Carly Simon sang about it in “You’re So Vain,” which kept visitors coming through the early 20th century.

Today, downtown Saratoga Springs’ centerpiece is a postcard-perfect main street lined with well-preserved historic buildings and homes, consistently great restaurants, and small shops. Caroline Street is home to the densest strip of nightlife options this side of Montreal, perpetually thronged with nature-seekers and racetrack visitors in the summertime before giving way to a more laid-back local crowd in the fall.

DenisTangneyJr /  E+ / getty images
DenisTangneyJr / E+ / getty images
DenisTangneyJr / E+ / getty images

Lake George

One of the best lake towns in the US, there’s a pretty good chance you’ve heard of this 31-mile-long beauty thanks to its destination status among families. The kitschy main village may not have the same draw of Saratoga, but you’re not here exclusively for the small-town feels. You’re here to let the majesty of a massive body of water hugged by verdant mountains completely transfix you. If Lake Como had an adventurous American cousin, this would be it.

In the warmer months, park yourself on “Million Dollar Beach” on the south shore of Lake George and take a dip. While this public strip of sand can get crowded, it’s also well situated to take in some incredible scenery with a long view that makes the water in front of you seem endless. If you want to get out on the water, rent a boat and explore some of the lake’s many bays, or buy your way onto one of the many ships that set sail for sightseeing. To get an aerial view, all you need to do is head up one of the lake’s surrounding mountains for a quick hike: Pilot Knob and Prospect Mountain are both popular for being relatively accessible, with sweeping views as a mid-trail reward.

Got a little cash to drop and looking to live it up? Keep driving north of Lake George Village to Bolton’s Landing and hit up The Sagamore. The luxury resort will cost you, but it’s set on a tranquil section of the lake that provides outrageous panoramic views and a relaxed waterfront-except here it’s combined with access to a spa, a pool, and drinking water with little cucumber slices in it.

Shobeir Ansari /  Moment Open / getty images
Shobeir Ansari / Moment Open / getty images
Shobeir Ansari / Moment Open / getty images

Great Sacandaga Lake

If you head southwest from Lake George, you’ll soon come across a body of water that might make you feel like you’re seeing double. The Great Sacandaga Lake is a stunning 29-mile-long body of water surrounded by dense forest that seems to come out of nowhere. It may not have the same colonial history to it as its nearby cousin, but that’s only because it didn’t even exist until the 1930s when the Sacandaga River was dammed to mitigate flooding. Now, the submerged valley provides the same access to boating, swimming, and fishing as nearby Lake George, but with a fraction of the boat traffic and crowds.

The sheer length of the lake makes getting from one end to the other a longer trek by boat, but as you head south the narrow body of water expands, becoming five miles wide-more than two and a half times Lake George’s widest point. It’s a great way to feel like you’ve got the place all to yourself. Some of the best hikes in the area are also relatively accessible for all ability levels, and a leaf-peeping trek to higher ground for a sweeping view of the valley is a good enough reason in itself for a fall Adirondack weekend trip.

PHOTO COURTESY OF T-MOBILE
PHOTO COURTESY OF T-MOBILE
PHOTO COURTESY OF T-MOBILE

Wherever you go, your phone goes, so you’ll need on-the-go coverage for all your big adventures. Being America’s leader in 5G coverage, T-Mobile has you covered. In fact, T-Mobile has the most interstate highway miles with 5G (92% coverage to be exact). So go where the open road takes you – and be confident you’ll stay connected to what matters most.

See 5G device, coverage, & access details at T-Mobile.com

Jeff Hollis/Shutterstock
Jeff Hollis/Shutterstock
Jeff Hollis/Shutterstock

Schroon Lake

If you want your trip to get even more small-scale but also want to maintain a lengthy to-do list, hit Schroon Lake, where you’ll find your agenda stacked year-round.

While this tiny hamlet minutes from the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness Area usually boasts a population of under 2,000 residents, that number swells significantly over the summer when the town plays host to the Seagle Festival, the oldest vocal training program in the country. The nine-week event draws to the Adirondacks talented performers from all over the world, many of whom you can catch putting on a show at the Boathouse Theater and the Schroon Lake Bandstand.

In the warmer months, you can hit all the classics-water skiing, fishing, sailing, paddling, and generally lounging by the lakeshore. But if the buzz of summer (or, uh, musical theater) isn’t your thing, wait and book your trip for the fall. Although things cool down considerably, small town-coziness levels skyrocket. Schroon Lake is surrounded by dozens of charming Airbnbs, B&Bs, and inns-many complete with cabin vibes, fire pits, fireplaces, all complete with that warm and fuzzy feeling. And come winter, alpine skiing, cross-country skiing, and snowmobiling are all on the menu.

 Walter Bibikow / DigitalVision / getty images
Walter Bibikow / DigitalVision / getty images
Walter Bibikow / DigitalVision / getty images

Lake Placid

Once you hop back on I-87 and head north, you’ll enter the most remote section of the Adirondacks. The area is dotted by small lakes and is densely forested straight through to Canada. But don’t miss the turn off the highway for Lake Placid, which is tucked up in the mountains west of the interstate: It’s one of the best places in New York State for year-round nature.

An ideal mountain lake town, the area has hosted the Winter Olympic Games twice-one time during which it was the venue for the “Miracle on Ice” victory of the underdog Americans over the Soviet hockey team for the gold medal. Today, facilities throughout the area still host athletes training for the Winter Games, complete with a ski jump, luge track, and a functioning bobsled course that you can ride down if you’re looking to fulfill childhood dreams created by Cool Runnings.

Aside from Olympic-level experiences, the access to nature here is outstanding. Whiteface Mountain, home to legendary downhill skiing events, is still operational and popular as ever with local skiers and snowboarders. All winter long, you can either opt to slap on a pair of skates and head for one of the many arenas or go al fresco with a session on Mirror Lake. Nearby Ausable Chasm and High Falls Gorge make for great nature walks on top of the dozens of opportunities for hiking and mountain biking available nearby. And did we mention the treetop ziplines? Because of course there’s ziplining, which is made even better if it’s preceded by a stop at the popular Breakfast Club.

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Zach Mack is the owner of Alphabet City Beer Co. in Manhattan’s East Village and Taco Vista on Governors Island. He’s been writing about beer since Thrillist let him back in 2013, and it’s been all uphill from there. He’s also a Certified Cicerone®, if you’re into that sort of thing!

Tiana Attride contributed to the reporting of this story.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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