Travel

This Gorgeous Beach Town Is the Best Gaycation in New England

In a state nicknamed "Vacationland," this tiny town on the coast offers the ultimate LGBTQ+ retreat.

Walter Bibikow/DigitalVision/Getty Images
Walter Bibikow/DigitalVision/Getty Images
Walter Bibikow/DigitalVision/Getty Images

With a name that translates to “beautiful place by the sea,” the pint-sized beach town of Ogunquit more than lives up to the hype. On Maine’s southern tip, it occupies a pinpoint of dramatic coastline that alternates between craggy cliffs, sandy coves, and one glorious three-mile beach that’s consistently voted one of the country’s best

Once a sleepy shipbuilding hamlet, Ogunquit has emerged as one of New England’s premier summer resorts, swelling from 1,200 full-time residents in the winter to a daily throng of up to 80,000 lobster-craving revelers from May to September. Most come for that impeccable fine-sand beach-a rarity along the state’s predominantly rocky shore.

But even if clouds roll in to spoil the fun, there’s a ton to keep you entertained on a weekend visit. Ogunquit boasts an impressive and diverse collection of independent businesses for a town of its size: art galleries, wine bars, pottery shops, antique stores, theatres, bakeries. And the majority are LGBTQ+ owned. 

This low-key seaside haven, so renowned for its beauty, has yet another trademark: an inclusive, judgment-free vibe that has made LGBTQ+ out-of-towners feel welcome there for decades. So much so, many decide to stay.

Thomas H. Mitchell/500px/Getty Images
Thomas H. Mitchell/500px/Getty Images
Thomas H. Mitchell/500px/Getty Images

New Yorker Jake Kirsch was working at a restaurant in Portland when a friend suggested he come to Ogunquit for a summertime stint bartending at The Front Porch, a gastro-bar and gay piano lounge. He ended up staying for five years, brainstorming ways to open his own restaurant concept in town. 

After a stint in nearby Boston, Kirsch was tipped off to a space opening up on Ogunquit’s main drag. In 2017, the budding restaurateur opened up his elegant, “but by no means pretentious,” alfresco beach bar Brix + Brine. Just three years later, he opened a contemporary American bistro called The Crooked Pine across the street. 

“On day one I had a set of regulars I knew from bartending at The Front Porch that were there to support,” recalls Kirsch. “Ogunquit is such a great town; it truly is a community. In the winter, it’s small enough that your social life is waving to people at the post office, and in the summertime, the streets are as crowded as any major city.”

Mainestreet Ogunquit
Mainestreet Ogunquit
Mainestreet Ogunquit

This summer, the town’s streets are lined with more Pride flags than ever before, following an official proclamation that acknowledges June as Pride Month in Ogunquit. Perhaps most encouraging was that it was all pushed through by a straight ally: Ogunquit’s interim town manager and lieutenant at the Ogunquit Police Department, Matthew Buttrick. “He managed to get Pride flags up on the telephone poles all through town for the first time!” says snowbird Jimmy Lucibelo, the former innkeeper at Bourne Bed and Breakfast. Two Pride flags were even raised in the town square alongside the American flag.

“In Ogunquit,” says Kirsch, “it doesn’t matter who you are, or what you do. If you’re a decent person, you belong here.” Ogunquit isn’t exclusively a gay destination, either, Kirsch adds. “You often see young gay couples and older straight couples having easy conversations at the bar. Everyone feels welcomed everywhere.” 

Whether you make it to Ogunquit for this year’s Pride festivities or swing through later this summer on a quintessential Maine road trip, here’s where to eat, drink, and stay while discovering this beautiful place by the sea.

Photo courtesy of Visit Maine
Photo courtesy of Visit Maine
Photo courtesy of Visit Maine

How to spend the perfect day in Ogunquit

Kick off the morning at LGBTQ+ owned Backyard Coffeehouse & Eatery with an iced latte and Main Street sandwich stuffed with smoked turkey from New Hampshire, local mozzarella, and granny smith apples. Stick around on their sunny patio, or take your picnic to go; from there, it’s a swift commute to one of the country’s most cherished beaches. 

You’ll know when you’ve reached the unofficial gay section of Ogunquit Beach; just keep walking past the families that stake their umbrellas in the area surrounding the parking lot. Dip into the ocean if you dare-the water stays chilly even through the summer-but you’ve got three pristine miles of fine-grain sand to plop your towel on, with views of the mansion-dotted cliffs that bookend the beach. If you don’t mind the kiddos, there’s warmer water just off the sandy spit where Ogunquit’s tidal river empties into the Gulf of Maine. 

Barnacle Billy's Inc. & Barnacle Billy's etc
Barnacle Billy’s Inc. & Barnacle Billy’s etc
Barnacle Billy’s Inc. & Barnacle Billy’s etc

Post-sun and sand, set off on the famous mile-and-a-quarter-long Marginal Way cliff walk to Perkins Cove. This pocket-sized fishing village and artist colony has weathered wood-planked buildings, upscale shops like LGBTQ+ owned Perkins Cove Pottery, and a handful of superb seafood eateries. 

Sleuth out a seat on the uber-popular patio at Barnacle Billy’s for buckets of steamer clams, lobster rolls, and deceptively heavy-handed rum punches with views of the famous wooden footbridge that spans the scenic harbor.

Leavitt Theatre
Leavitt Theatre
Leavitt Theatre

Keep your buzz going with an Aperol Spritz at Brix + Brine or a wine tasting session at Coastal Wine before making your way to Ogunquit’s Leavitt Theatre, one of Maine’s oldest working theatres. The Leavitt was born in 1923 as a silent movie cinema, and nearly a century later, it now functions as a hybrid theatre-cocktail lounge run by couple Emily Knight and Max Clayton, who’s had the heritage building in his family since the 1970s. Come to the LGBTQ+ friendly venue for free film screenings, live bands playing each night, a killer craft cocktail program, and the globally-inspired dinner menu developed by Chef Keith Remes from trendy Atlanta tavern The Golden Eagle. 

For a nightcap, follow the cacophony of crowds belting through the walls of LGBTQ+ owned piano bar The Front Porch, then groove the night away at MaineStreet, the largest gay nightclub in northern New England, which has two dancefloors, two sprawling patios, and three bars to choose from.

The Trellis House
The Trellis House
The Trellis House

Where to stay in Ogunquit

The storied building that is now the Gazebo Inn has gone through several iterations before becoming an award-winning bed and breakfast, from a 19th-century farmhouse and boarding house to a horse stable. Owners Scott Osgood and Bruce Senecal purchased the dilapidated barn in 2005, and it would soon phoenix into a tastefully appointed 14-key property with all the trappings of a large hotel, including a spa, gym, and heated floors in the suites.

Alternatively, English garden meets beach chic at the Trellis House Inn, which sits in a turn-of-the-century house elegantly restored by New Englanders Laurence Plotkin, Glen Porter, and their pup Bentley. All eight suites have en-suite bathrooms, the breakfasts are surprisingly decadent (poached lobster and sausage hash! Bananas foster oatmeal brûlée! Pineapple upside-down pancakes!) and nightly happy hours are hosted on the wraparound porch.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTwitterPinterestYouTubeTikTok, and Snapchat.

Paul Jebara (@pawljebara) is a travel writer, content specialist, and polyglot based in New York City. 

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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