Travel

Ireland Is Open, and The Stiff Drinks and Sea Cliffs Are Calling Your Name

Europe's friendliest country is back in business.

Francesco Vaninetti Photo/Getty Images
Francesco Vaninetti Photo/Getty Images
Francesco Vaninetti Photo/Getty Images

Lively pubs, friendly folk, and excellent craic-that’s what Ireland is made of. But more than just one round of Guinness after another, this beloved island nation in the North Atlantic has ancient ruins dating back thousands of years, majestic landscapes with rolling green hills that punctuate ash-gray skies, and alluring small towns whose rich heritage fuels a sense of national pride few other countries can match. And as tiny as the Emerald Isle may be-about the size of Indiana, with an even smaller population-it’ll beguile you with its charm, and perhaps even bestow upon you the luck of the Irish.

In fact, we’re already feeling pretty lucky: As of July 19, Ireland became one of many countries to officially reopen to international tourism. So if you’ve been dying to listen to a triad session while sipping on a cold one, explore medieval sites, or amble along Europe’s most dizzying sea cliffs, your long wait is finally over. Here’s what to expect if you visit Ireland right now, and everything to see once you’ve touched down.

How to visit Ireland and what’s open

Ireland is open to fully vaccinated travelers and those who can provide proof of recovery from Covid-19 in the last 180 days. Unvaccinated travelers must present a negative PCR test taken no more than 72 hours prior to travel, test again upon arrival, and undergo quarantine at an approved hotel. You’ll also need to fill out a passenger locator form at least 48 hours before departure. More info here.

After a long lockdown, bars and restaurants are back slinging pints and cooking up good grub for everybody to enjoy-but you’ll need to provide proof of vaccination to sit inside. Most shops, tours, museums, and hotels are open for business, but be sure to double check their status ahead of time. Even with many Irish folks opting for staycations that’ll coincide with this year’s tourist season, it should be easy to maintain social distancing (and nab some crowd-free photos) since many tourist attractions can only operate at 50% capacity.

Although the number of flights diminished during the pandemic, you can now catch a nonstop flight via Aer Lingus to Dublin from east coast cities like Boston, Newark, and New York from $570, and from Chicago for under $500; flights from LA and Dallas tend to run for $900+.

From there, enjoy the capital as it returns to its full splendor-or risk it all by driving on the left side of the road to explore the countryside and see what the island has to offer. Outdoorsfolk, history buffs, and revelers alike: Here are the best things to do in Ireland.

Unsplash/Matheus Câmara da Silva
Unsplash/Matheus Câmara da Silva
Unsplash/Matheus Câmara da Silva

Enjoy old classics and new cocktails in Dublin

Ireland’s capital comes with equal parts history and debauchery, both of which can be found on nearly every street corner. Seek out famous Dublin attractions like St. Patrick’s Cathedral and the Old Library of Trinity College; stop in for a taste of the world-famous brews and booze at the Guinness Storehouse or the Jameson Distillery; and hit up the National Leprechaun Museum of Ireland to get enchanted by Ireland’s rich folklore and legends. (Oh, and always be sure to pack an umbrella.)

Of course, it wouldn’t be a true visit to Dublin without a night or two spent downing pints on the town, whether that be with fellow tourists from around the world in Temple Bar, or in more laid-back neighborhoods like Smithfield. Check out the city’s up-and-coming cocktail scene at Bar 1661, where you can try drinks inspired by poitín, a (once-illegal) spirit that’s essentially Ireland’s equivalent to moonshine.

Visit the countryside for ruins and rock n’ roll

The countryside is the ideal space to commune with the ancient spirits of Ireland-and there’s no better spot to do so than in the Boyne Valley. Just 45 minutes outside Dublin, this lush landscape is surrounded by prehistoric sites like Brú na Bóinne (or “the Palace of the Boyne”), which consists of the megalithic burial mounds of Knowth, Newgrange, and Dowth.

A short drive from the mounds, you’ll also find the Hill of Tara, a seed of political power where the ancient kings of Ireland claimed their thrones. And for more recent history-or rather, a place that melds together past and present-check out Slane Castle, an 18th-century palace that doubles as a music venue and whiskey distillery.

Conquer your fear of heights along Ireland’s sea cliffs

Stretching along the North Clare coastline, the Cliffs of Moher-literally “the cliffs of the ruined fort”-are one of Ireland’s most recognizable vistas. From the edge of the towering stone walls, which reach as high as 702 feet, you can catch an extraordinary view out as far as the Aran Islands. If you’re up for a proper look around, there’s also a hiking trail from Doolin to Hag’s Head. Just try to resist standing too close to the edge-strong winds have sent a few people flying.

A few hours north in Southwest Donegal along the Wild Atlantic Way, Sliabh Liag (or Slieve League) is the highest sea cliff in all of Europe, as well as one of Ireland’s best hidden gems. Reaching heights of 1,972 feet-nearly twice as tall as the Eiffel Tower-the cliffs were once a Christian pilgrimage. Now, visitors marvel at the tremendous view of the Sligo Mountains and Donegal Bay nearby. For the truly adventurous spirits (and those not afraid of heights), venture beyond the viewing point onto One Man’s Pass which loops around the Pilgrim’s Path for some heavenly scenery.

Photo courtesy of Cork City Council
Photo courtesy of Cork City Council
Photo courtesy of Cork City Council

Eat yourself silly in Ireland’s best food city

Along the banks of the River Lee, Cork is an ultra-walkable cosmopolitan city with superb restaurants and a thriving craft beer scene. Spend the day shopping for edible souvenirs at the renowned English Market, filled with produce from local artisans, and if you can’t get enough, grab a meal made from the market’s best offerings at restaurant Market Lane. Meat-lovers ought to rub elbows (pun intended) in the narrow halls of Elbow Lane Brew and Smokehouse, while vegetarians should treat themselves to a five-star meal at Paraiso.

Use your culinary escapades as fuel to scale 132 steps and ring the famous Shandon Bells at St Anne’s Church; we promise you’ll find that the bird’s-eye view over the city is well worth the effort. And once you’ve ambled back down, unwind with some superb craft beers from Franciscan Well Brewery, a former 13th-century monastery slinging pints made in its microbrewery.

Unsplash/Jason Murphy
Unsplash/Jason Murphy
Unsplash/Jason Murphy

Rediscover the history of the Titanic in Cobh

The village of Cobh is deeply entangled with the doomed ocean liner RMS Titanic, as it was the last port of call before the vessel’s ill-fated maiden voyage. At the Titanic Experience, elevate your knowledge beyond James Cameron’s 1997 classic and discover more intimate details about the passengers and crew whose lives were lost to the sea.

Beyond the world’s most infamous ship, this port town has plenty more history to offer. Along the harbor, gawk at the colorful Deck of Cards houses, built in 1850, as well as the famed St. Colman’s Cathedral with its carillon of 49 bells. Between 1848 and 1950, Cobh also served as the departure point for 2.5 million Irish citizens on their way to North America, a rich emigration history you can learn all about at the Heritage Centre.

Anna Gorin/Getty Images
Anna Gorin/Getty Images
Anna Gorin/Getty Images

See how 6th-century monks lived on an ancient island

Just off the coast of County Kerry in the Atlantic Ocean, venture to what seems like the edge of the world with a trip to Skellig Michael. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was once the home of 6th-century Christian monks who believed isolating themselves on the island would bring them closer to God (and in spring, it welcomes a colony of puffins). While it’s a tough trek-you’ll need to take a boat ride from Portmagee and hike up 600 steps to the top-the once-in-a-lifetime experience of walking among the centuries-old settlement is worth the effort. (If it sweetens the pot for anybody, Skellig Michael also doubled as Luke Skywalker’s hideout inStar Wars: The Force Awakens.) Be sure to book early-tours tend to fill up fast.

Hang 10 in one of Europe’s most unexpected surf spots

Head north along the country’s west coast and hit the rocky shores of Bundoran, a seaside town renowned for the best surfing in the Emerald Isle, if not in all of Europe. Beneath gray skies, steel your nerves and catch giant waves at The Peak or Tullan Strand (or just watch the local pros do their thing) before refueling at one of the cafes around town like The Salty Fox, Foam, or Caroline’s. Take some time to explore this former resort town with a wee coastal stroll around Rougey Cliff or the West End Walk for breathtaking views of the fishing port of Killybegs, as well as the aforementioned Slieve League.

Get immersed in nature at Malin Head

The northernmost point of Ireland, Malin Head is famous for its eye-catching landscape and striking beaches. Here, you’ll want to submerge yourself in nature with a little fishing, a quick swim, or a study of the unique rock formations that dot the coast. Hike up to Banba’s Crown and be rewarded at the top with a glorious vista of the Inishowen Peninsula. From there, more daring hikers can continue along a quick, 1.1 mile trail that’ll guide them out along Hells Hole and the Devil’s Bridge-a deep ravine and equally-impressive natural arch-and back to Malin Head. Don’t be intimidated by the names: unbeatable views are in store for the brave.

Joel Carillet/Getty Images
Joel Carillet/Getty Images
Joel Carillet/Getty Images

And of course, visit the Giant’s Causeway

No trip to Ireland is complete without a visit to the Giant’s Causeway, Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Formed over 60 million years ago by the rapid cooling of molten lava upon contact with the sea, the mind-boggling formation of hexagonal basalt columns are an international fixation, capturing the imaginations of artists and scientists for centuries. Keep your eyes open for the distinctive formations of the Camel, the Wishing Chair, the Giant Boot, and the Harp, as well as the state-of-the-art visitor center, where you can rest your weary feet with delicious treats after achieving your daily 10,000 steps along the cliffs.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTwitterPinterestYouTubeTikTok, and Snapchat.

Yolanda Evans is a contributor for Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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