Travel

This Northern Arizona Town Is the Gateway to a Thrillingly Unexpected Wilderness

Great beer and fantastic food at the edge of adventure.

Jacob Rushing / image source / getty images
Jacob Rushing / image source / getty images
Jacob Rushing / image source / getty images

Editor’s note: We know COVID-19 is impacting travel plans right now. For a little inspiration, we’ll continue to share stories from our favorite places around the world. Be sure to check travel restrictions and protocols before you head out.Forget everything you think you know about Arizona. The barren wasteland in the recesses of your imagination-those endless expanses of parched earth and tourist-trap trading posts-are mirages obscuring the state’s true beauty. For proof, look to Flagstaff. The vibrant town-where the craft-beer game is as strong as the sense of community-is the antithesis of your preconceived notions: A gateway to the Arizona wilderness scene unlike anywhere else in the US.

At an elevation of 6,909-feet, Flagstaff claims Arizona’s largest mountain, Humphrey’s Peak, and biggest ski resort, Arizona Snowbowl. The town is positioned right in the middle of the world’s largest ponderosa pine stand, a national forest that spans 1.8 million acres. Locally-owned butcheries, bakeries, breweries, and bike shops line the streets, with urban trails and bikeways looping around the perimeter. And unlike its big-city neighbor to the south (no shade, Phoenix), out-of-towners and residents alike can experience all four seasons in Flagstaff, from the long, sunny summertime days to the winter season’s brisk air and blankets of snow. 

Flagstaff is so much more than just a day’s stop along Route 66: It’s a welcome dose of the unexpected that demands to be explored.  Here are the best things to see, eat, and do when you’re here.

Matt Baxter / unsplash
Matt Baxter / unsplash
Matt Baxter / unsplash

Check in to Hotel Monte Vista

The Monte Vista originally swung open its doors in 1927, and today the fully-restored anchor of downtown Flagstaff holds a spot on the National Register of Historic Places. Former guests include the likes of John Wayne, Harry Truman, and countless Route 66 roadtrippers. The suites and bed & breakfast-style suites are an ideal basecamp for exploring the town: The hotel is located among  downtown’s bars, restaurants, storefronts, boutiques, allowing you to walk between artisan soap retailers, crystal dealers, vintage clothing outlets, and bike shops in between bites and beers (more on those later).

Oh, and it’s also supposedly one of the most haunted places in Arizona. The hotel has been at the center of Flagstaff’s metamorphosis, from its current vibrancy to its days hosting a speakeasy during Prohibition. As such, it’s taken on some permanent guests. Grab a classic cocktail at the Rendezvous Bar or lounge and, according to lore, you might catch the sight of a spectral couple on the dance floor, or a deceased bank robber guzzling his last cocktail for eternity. Spooky, sure. But at least it means that the hotel is cozy and welcome enough that nobody really wants to leave.

Go full carnivore at Proper Meats + Provisions

Locally sourced artisanal meats, charcuterie, cheeses, and fresh-baked breads are the star attractions at this downtown Flagstaff butcher shop and community eatery. In addition to an abundance of snacky things, Proper Meats + Provisions also offers a lineup of small plates, housemade soups, and tasty sandwiches like the muffaletta, and pastrami-all of which pair perfectly with their curated wine and craft beer list. Yes, even the housemade hot dogs hiding under the golden batter of the corn dog. 
 

Grab a pint at Mother Road Brewing Company

Downtown Flagstaff’s craft-beer stalwart, family-owned Mother Road Brewing proudly serves beer drinkers an array of hoppy favorites, including year-round favorites like a double black IPA and a crisp kolsch, as well as a shortlist of seasonal offerings like its current ninth-anniversary Belgian Tripel. Utilize Mother Road’s roadside pickup to snag some cans en route to your next outdoor adventure, or score a seat on the sprawling patio.

Arizona Nordic Village
Arizona Nordic Village
Arizona Nordic Village

Strap on some snowshoes at Arizona Nordic Village

With 108-inches of annual snowfall, Flagstaff’s status as Arizona’s winter wonderland is a firm rebuttal to anyone who thinks the entire state is one big, blistering desert. Here, wintertime activities like cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, fat-tire biking, and hiking are never too far away. Arizona Nordic Village offers all that, plus onsite lodging options including campsites and yurt rentals. Grab a pair of snowshoes: more than 24 miles of snowy trails await a quick 20-minute drive from downtown Flagstaff.  
 

Gorge on the best breakfast in Flagstaff

There’s arguably no more an iconic taste of Flagstaff comfort than MartAnne’s. Stacked high with avocado, cheeses, eggs, salsas, and green onions, the dishes here are just as colorful as the vibrant decor found throughout what locals call Flagstaff’s best breakfast place. This is a dyed-in-the-wool Flagstaff institution. Beloved for it’s over-the-top burritos and drenched-in-salsa chilaquiles, this one-of-a-kind breakfast spot checks all the boxes when it comes to food, service, and atmosphere

DeepDesertPhoto / RooM / getty images
DeepDesertPhoto / RooM / getty images
DeepDesertPhoto / RooM / getty images

Explore the aftermath of an ancient volcanic eruption

Today, Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument is a serene setting brimming with ponderosa pines and wildlife. But sometime between the year 1040 and 1100, this peaceful naturescape 20 miles outside Flagstaff was the scene of a chaotic volcanic eruption that forever changed the landscape. More than 900 years later, Sunset Crater remains the youngest volcano on the Colorado Plateau, and it’s just minutes from some of the best camping in Arizona. The national monument is open to visitors looking to explorable its vast hiking trails, however, most travelers opt to see the monument by traversing the 34-mile scenic loop by car. To get in, secure a pass online or pay at the gate.
 

Get a high score while drinking beer cocktails

The beers at Historic Brewing are exemplary, including a crisp salted-lime lager and a belly-warming chocolate/vanilla holiday porter. But the team behind the bar is pouring more than just suds at this downtown Flagstaff barrel and bottle house: Historic puts an extra focus on beer cocktails. The standout is the Piehole Porter Old Fashioned, a bourbon-heavy sipper made with their signature cherry porter. Or warm up with a seasonal Tepache Hot Toddy, constructed with pineapple rum, lemon, and housemade chai bitters. Whether you’re chilling on the patio with your pooch or engaged in an epic SkeeBall tourney (yes, there are arcade games too), you’ll feel like you’ve found your new home.

Arizona Snowbowl
Arizona Snowbowl
Arizona Snowbowl

Rocket up and down the mountain at Arizona’s biggest ski resort

Outsiders might mistake Arizona for being all desert. But the Grand Canyon State is actually home to three unique ski resorts, and the largest is just 14-miles from Downtown Flagstaff. Arizona Snowbowl impresses with its 2,300-foot vert, and its annual 260-inches of snowfall ain’t too shabby either. 

While the park offers a shortlist of black diamond runs, its 55 runs include ideal slopes for beginners too. Regardless of your skill level, or if you’re just in it for the apres ski, the high-speed Arizona Gondola is your ticket to the top. The enclosed gondola provides passengers with sweeping panoramic views of the mountain and snow covered trees all without ever having to leave its seriously snug cabin. After the ride, hit up Hart Prairie Lodge, Agassiz Lodge, or Fremont Restaurant and Bar, all of which offer open-air seating. 
 

Sample some Cajun BBQ

Cajun classics meet craveable barbecued eats at Satchmo’s, blending styles to create a flavor wholly unique to FlagstaffThe po’ boys, of the shrimp, sausage, or catfish variety, are unmissable. And sides like the tots and mac-and-cheese are a must order. Really hungry? Full racks of ribs, brisket, and pulled pork are at the ready, along with a signature andouille-loaded jambalaya. Whatever you do, before you roll yourself out be sure to leave your mark on the chalkboard wall.

Pizzicletta
Pizzicletta
Pizzicletta

Devour some wood-fired pies at Pizzicletta

Pizza aficionados are known to make the 2.5-hour drive from Phoenix for a taste of the extraordinary wood-fired pizza at Pizzicletta-and considering Phoenix is home to world-famous Pizzeria Bianco, that should be a hell of a compliment. Yet that’s a testament to the craft that geologist and self-taught pizza dough-tosser Caleb Schiff has brought to this humble Italian-inspired pizzeria, which has been slinging pies since 2011. The menu spans from a vegan-friendly pie to a bacon and shallot stunner, and is rounded-out by an assembly of standouts like marinated olives, prosciutto, and gelato. 
 

Explore Arizona’s most unique forests and trails

Spanning 1.8 million acres outside Flagstaff and embodying varied landscapes and elevations, the world’s largest stand of ponderosa pines is positioned within the boundary lines of Coconino National Forest. A serious pair of waterproof snow boots, crampons, or, better yet, snowshoes will be required for your winter season excursions, but don’t let the elements discourage you from exploring the region’s epic trails. 

Lace up your boots and venture out on Kachina Trail. This moderate out and back trail is accessible year-round and descends a high lava cliff and crosses several canyons over its scenic 10.2-miles. Ancient pines stretch into the sky at its higher elevations and as you descend into Weatherford Canyon you’ll dip into groves of ponderosa. Or traverse the north slope of the San Francisco Peaks along the seven-mile Abineau-Bear Jaw Loop, where you’ll peep the Grand Canyon 70 miles away.

For a trail that’s close to the creature comforts of your hotel room, look to Fatman’s Loop. Spanning 2.5-miles, it  provides unobstructed views of the Flagstaff suburbs and far-reaching countryside. There’s lots of interesting things to see on this trail, including remnants of Mt. Elden’s volcanic origins, upland trees, and a posse of forest critters.

Dominic Jeanmaire / shutterstock
Dominic Jeanmaire / shutterstock
Dominic Jeanmaire / shutterstock

Go stargazing at Lowell Observatory

Stargazing is one of Flagstaff’s favorite pastimes. This is, after all, the world’s first International Dark Sky City, a designation awarded by the International Darky Sky Association. And the centerpiece of all this celestial wonderment is Lowell Observatory, the iconic dome that serves as a training ground for astronomical researchers and educators. In 1905 Pluto was discovered here, and today the observatory operates a series of programs designed to inspire people to look up to the stars and ponder what’s out there. Currently, it’s opened in a very limited capacity, so be sure to check here before you set your heart on seeing the stars. 
 

Day trip to the Grand Canyon

Like we said, Flagstaff is a gateway to adventure. Now that you’ve seen the underrated and underexplored, might as well move on to the state’s most famous site. Arizona’s grandest natural wonder is just a quick trip from the heart of Flagstaff. We don’t need to tell you why you need to see this world-famous hole in the ground, though you should probably listen to us about how to do it right. Caravan your way about 80-miles north and you’ll arrive at the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park.Sign up here for our daily Thrillist email, get Next Flight Out for more travel coverage, and subscribe here for our YouTube channel to get your fix of the best in food/drink/fun.

Lauren Topor Reichert is a Phoenix-based writer and photographer with a sudden desire to go forest bathing. Follow her around Arizona, and beyond, on Instagram.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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