Travel

Dublin’s Best Bookstore Has Been a Bohemian Hot Spot Since the ’80s

This place has stories for days.

Tim E White/Alamy
Tim E White/Alamy
Tim E White/Alamy

The Winding Stair bookshop is housed in a strikingly yellow four-story building that dates back to 1875. Perched on the banks of the River Liffey, the bookshop itself has been there since the ’80s, and is considered a protected structure by the Dublin City Council. In previous lives, it was used as a sales and auction house, an art gallery, a toy shop, and the former offices of In Dublin magazine. The adjacent Woollen Mills restaurant once housed the haberdashery where literary legend James Joyce was once employed as a salesman of Irish tweed.

Besides being steeped in Dublin history, the Winding Stair is still a popular meeting spot for locals and visitors alike. In 1982, book lover Kevin Connolly transformed a corner of the aforementioned magazine office into the bookshop and café it is today. Its name was inspired by Yeats’ reference to a winding stair in one of his poems, and Connolly originally intended to run the shop for just a year. “I started with five boxes of books, a twenty-pound note, a huge amount of enthusiasm, and absolutely no knowledge of bookselling,” he said.

To Connolly’s surprise, the shop quickly became a gathering place for writers, musicians, and artists. Throughout the ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s, bohemians of all kinds considered it the place to seen and be seen. Students, writers, and other literary types gathered there to drink cheap cups of tea and eat Connolly’s mother’s famous fruit cake, while thumbing their way through a cache of dog-eared poetry books. Eventually, In Dublin magazine moved out and the bookshop took over the entire building. But Connolly eventually chose to sell the business in 2005, when escalating rents made business untenable. Much to the local’s great relief, restaurateur Elaine Murphy took the reins the following year, transforming the laid back café into a mainstay of

Ireland’s culinary scene. Thankfully, on the ground floor, The Winding Stair bookshop remains untouched and continues to welcome a new generation of readers, writers, and explorers-even if the tea is more expensive than it was back in the ’80s.

Tim E White/Alamy
Tim E White/Alamy
Tim E White/Alamy

A Step Back in Time

Dubliners can-and should!-be a little smug when it comes to their city’s impressive literary history. As the city that gifted us James Joyce, it boasts a literary history that runs as deep as the River Liffey. Iconic figures, such as the aforementioned Yeats, as well as Samuel Beckett, Bram Stoker, and Oscar Wilde were all Dublin natives. The Trinity College Library, hosts the Book of Kells, that famous illuminated manuscript from the 9th century. Today, Dublin continues to be a thriving hub for writers and artists, with literary festivals and bookshops like The Winding Stair celebrating the enduring legacy of Dublin’s contribution to world literature.

Crossing the threshold into The Winding Stair bookshop is a bit like stepping back in time. The combination of retro light fittings, rickety wooden tables, creaky floorboards and narrow shelves that sag under the weight of the books sets a warming and welcoming tone. The inviting aroma of old and new paper creates feelings of both yearning and nostalgia, while the occasional sloshing sound of the River Liffey provides a sense of serenity in the midst of an otherwise busy city. These may be the reasons why The Winding Stair bookshop tends to inspire even the most creatively challenged. Dublin local Niamh Bailey has been a patron of The Winding Stair since her days as a wayward teen in the late ‘80s. “As a group, myself and my friends spent countless hours here, drinking milky tea and reading books that we were convinced made us look utterly brilliant and well read,” she says. “Times might have moved on, but The Winding Stair remains reassuringly the same.” She still stops by whenever she’s in the city.

Tim E White/Alamy
Tim E White/Alamy
Tim E White/Alamy

The Cultural Connection

The Winding Stair bookshop’s commitment to fostering Dublin’s cultural scene goes beyond its impressive collection of books. While the bookshop may be on the smaller end, it remains a community space cherished by both locals and visitors. It serves as a platform for local artists and writers by regularly hosting book launches, readings, and exhibitions. These events provide a much needed space for creative minds to connect with their audience and each other, thus enriching the city’s vibrant cultural tapestry. The cozy atmosphere of the bookshop, with its intimate seating areas and the never-too-loud music in the background, lends itself perfectly to such gatherings. It’s a place where people can discuss, debate, and celebrate the written word. In the past, the bookstore has welcomed notable Irish literary figures such as Patrick McCabe, Roddy Doyle, Sinead O’Connor, and Nancy Griffith-all of whom have found inspiration within its walls.

Today, the bookstore is a proud supporter of local talent and continues to champion Irish literature and support local and emerging writers and artists. Amidst the tightly packed shelves you will find a curated selection of works from self-published writers and smaller presses as well as the bigger, more obvious names, along with a range of cards and prints from independent artists.

But First, We Eat

Of course, all of these artists, writers and bibliophiles need to eat, so in addition to its highbrow literary offerings, The Winding Stair bookshop also houses the aforementioned Winding Stair Restaurant. Located on the top floor of the building, it offers patrons an authentic Irish culinary experience alongside breathtaking views of the River Liffey. Beyond boasting a stunning atmosphere, the reputation for using locally sourced, seasonal ingredients and a menu that changes with the seasons. The Winding Stair Restaurant has become a favorite dining spot for both locals and tourists, the irresistible blend of traditional Irish recipes with a modern twist has garnered praise from food lovers and critics alike. All in all, a visit to this iconic establishment is the perfect way to spend an afternoon in Dublin.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Ciara McQuillan is a contributor for Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

Get the latest from Thrillist Australia delivered straight to your inbox, subscribe here.

Related

Our Best Stories, Delivered Daily
The best decision you'll make all day.