Travel

Snorkeling Through a Salmon Migration Is a Kaleidoscopic Dream

How to take a wild, fish-filled float down Vancouver Island's Campbell River.

Westend61/Getty Images
Westend61/Getty Images
Westend61/Getty Images

“It’s seldom we would see a bear, but not impossible,” Roger McDonell told me in early September, just a few days before we stuffed ourselves into thick wetsuits, strapped snorkeling masks to our faces, and lowered ourselves into the rushing, 59-degree water of the Campbell River on British Columbia’s Vancouver Island. We were there to take our autumn activities to the next level, forgoing the region’s annual fall leaf peeping for a more active autumn pastime: a salmon-peeping river snorkel.

“It’s more likely just to see harbor seals,” McDonell added.

Fortunately, he spoke too soon. Less than a minute after entering the water, before I had even identified the sparkling silver blobs around me as a kaleidoscope of pink, coho, and chinook salmon, brownish shapes emerged from the forested river bank no more than 20 feet away. It wasn’t just one bear, but four: a mom with three rare triplet cubs.

Photo by Suzie Dundas
Photo by Suzie Dundas
Photo by Suzie Dundas

Like my own small group of snorkelers, the bears were drawn by the siren call of the river’s migrating salmon, clumsily slapping at the water in an attempt to beach a fish. I felt just as clumsy, especially compared to the salmon. They elegantly twisted and turned among moss-covered boulders and rocks as I struggled to keep my buoyant body from getting carried away with the current. The whole display was like a choreographed dance set to the music of the river, an annual performance by the 800,000 or so salmon that migrate upriver each year.

For the next 30 minutes or so, we bobbled through rapids and flew Superman-style through the Campbell River, floating past schooling salmon, many longer than my arm. At the surface, you’re dodging untethered globs of moss and the occasional floating fish guts. But look down, and it’s all salmon, all the time. While they’re pink and colorful on land, underwater, they dart by in shades of sparkling blue, silver, and white, though their effective camouflage makes them nearly impossible to spot from the surface. Generally, they’ll dash away before you make contact-but not before the occasional curious salmon tries to go eye-to-eye with you, seemingly pondering why this ungainly interloper is floating between them and their final destination.

ChristinaPrinn/iStock/Getty Images Plus
ChristinaPrinn/iStock/Getty Images Plus
ChristinaPrinn/iStock/Getty Images Plus

It makes sense that this adventure would take place in the city of Campbell River, sometimes dubbed the “salmon capital of the world,” and the de facto destination for autumn salmon peeping. While some remote Canadian properties like Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge, Bella Coola Eagle Lodge, and Bear Claw Lodge offer fall salmon snorkeling as an activity for guests, Roger McDonell, owner and captain at the OceanFix.ca Dive Center in Campbell River, says he doesn’t know of any other operators offering a similar experience. He says it started in the 1970s, when members of area scuba diving clubs decided a river snorkel would be fun; the huge numbers of salmon were a happy surprise. Now, it’s become a bit of local rite of passage around these parts of British Columbia, and OceanFix offers guests one of two options: guided adventures or gear rentals, which include the snorkel and mask, fins, and 7-millimeter wetsuit (the thickest available, both for warmth, and to provide enough buoyancy to ensure you bounce and bob like a pool raft through the river’s small rapids).

Photo by Suzie Dundas
Photo by Suzie Dundas
Photo by Suzie Dundas

McDonell says most people with any kind of snorkeling experience should be fine going on their own, especially as the OceanFix provides a map and a thorough briefing of what to expect. Though salmon are rampant around British Columbia, not just any river is suitable for snorkeling. It needs to be shallow and slow-moving, and it also needs to have an exit point, which rules out many rivers bookended by dense forest or sheer rock walls. My route took no more than 25 minutes to float, and McDonell says enthusiastic visitors will often do it two or three times in an afternoon.At the end of my float, I asked McDonell about the environmental impact of sending a human wildly flying down a river usually reserved for salmon and seals. In McDonell’s estimate, it has no more impact than the fishermen-or bears-prowling the shores, especially because it’s not something people do in the hundreds. We were the only ones in the river when I floated in early September, with most observers choosing to view our antics from dry land. “The salmon definitely avoid the snorkelers, probably because we resemble one of their natural predators, harbor seals,” says McDonell. “So the impact of our brief encounters should be a low factor in their overall arduous journey upstream.”Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Suzie Dundas is a freelance writer, editor, and author with a focus on travel and the outdoors. She’s the Sierra Nevada editor at SFGate and has recent bylines in publications like The Knot, Outside, AFAR, Scuba Diving Magazine, and more. When not writing, you can usually find her at home in the mountains of northern California, either mountain biking, playing bar trivia, or looking at photos of rescue dogs. You can find more of her work at SuzieDundas.com or follow her on Instagram at @HikeUpYourSkirt.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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