Travel

Three Underrated Neighborhoods That Showcase the Quirkier Side of Seoul

All the local vibes, none of the tourist traps.

Carlos Huang/Shutterstock
Carlos Huang/Shutterstock
Carlos Huang/Shutterstock

South Korea’s dynamic capital is one of the most famous-and well-documented-cities on the planet. Seoul’s neon-lit alleyways, electric nightlife, hidden bars, thriving music scene, wild karaoke nights, trendsetting style, and world-class dining coexist beautifully with its scenic beauty and ancient heritage. It’s a city that’s always on the move, but also one whose history is still so present-strong and solid, almost as immovable as the Bukhansan Mountain Range looming in the distance. And when you visit this eclectic city of 10 million, you instantly become a part of its story.

Perhaps the most interesting thing about Seoul, however, is just how one of the world’s largest metropolises still, somehow, maintains a multitude of hidden gems. You just need to know where to look.

While living in the southern city of Busan, I got to know some of the best places to see, eat, and drink in go-to Seoul neighborhoods like Hongdae, Insadong, Itaewon, and beyond. I visited dusty jazz clubs and makkoli bars, wandered the centuries-old Gyeongbokgung Palace, and ate my way through Gwangjang Market. The core of the city’s skyline, the Seoul Tower, became my Northern Star. I truly felt like I knew the city from the inside out.

Yet some of Seoul’s most interesting, vibrant, and transformative areas remain under the radar for even the savviest of tourists-something I found out when I recently returned to the city after a prolonged absence. Guided by friends, I was led off more familiar paths and soon encountered a side of Seoul I hadn’t known before. These close-knit areas were still humming with activity, incredible flavors, and gorgeous art, yet reassuringly steeped in history and innovation.

No trip to Seoul is complete without exploring the highlights, but to truly experience the city is to embrace its less-touristy sides with equal vigor. Here are three neighborhoods key to unlocking the heart of modern Seoul.

ongi/Shutterstock
ongi/Shutterstock
ongi/Shutterstock

Mullae

South of the Han River, the once-overlooked industrial area of Mullae-dong (dong means ‘neighborhood’ in Korean) is growing in popularity as rents go up in more polished districts like Gangnam and Itaewon. And the cool kids have definitely caught on-even on a cold Thursday in February, the bars, restaurants, and cafes are filled to the brim. It feels simultaneously like Seoul’s best- and worst-kept secret.

Even if it’s your first time in the country, plan to spend at least a day in Mullae-dong. From funky bars to hidden alleyways full of art and culture, Mullae rewards urban adventurers. Make a beeline for the Mullae Arts Village, arguably the neighborhood’s biggest draw for newcomers and locals alike. Spread along a few narrow alleyways just east of Mullae’s subway station, this area is a mix of painted murals and cutting-edge galleries.

@pont_official_
@pont_official_
@pont_official_

The cafe culture is next level in Seoul, and Mullae-dong stands tall amongst the city’s giants. Many of the neighborhood’s now-closed steel and iron factories have been converted into crowded coffee shops and bars, and it seems like every corner of downtown Mullae is paying aesthetic homage to its industrial history. Grab a hand-drip coffee-sometimes hard to find in Korea-at the open and airy Pont Cafe Mullae, and save room for pastries at Rust Bakery, whose second floor is home to great views and even better vibes. And just up the road you’ll find Cafe 1953 with Audrey, where you can sip Breakfast at Tiffany’s-themed lattes in a converted warehouse dedicated to Hollywood icon Audrey Hepburn’s stylish legacy.

Starlets aside, sometimes the Mullae’s best moments are the quietest ones. The last time I wandered the village, my friend and I warmed up at a small, nameless hole-in-the-wall serving ramen. The spicy, steaming broth mixed with fumes from nearby iron foundries to create a sensory mingling of the neighborhood’s roots and its ever-changing present.

Tuangtong Soraprasert/Shutterstock
Tuangtong Soraprasert/Shutterstock
Tuangtong Soraprasert/Shutterstock

Hyehwa

A trendy neighborhood about 15 minutes outside of central Seoul, Hyehwa is home to hilly, winding streets housing a well-preserved fortress, indie theaters, and boutique shops. Here, you can explore attractions all day before seeking refuge in one of the many bars and restaurants at night. Compared to the famous Hongdae University district a few miles south, this area feels more laid-back while still offering a wealth of experiences around every corner.

Hyehwa’s nucleus is Marronnier Park. This tree-lined expanse is a great place to relax in the hot summer months, but it becomes even more stunning during the fragrant spring bloom and autumn’s colorful bursts. A few blocks south, you’ll find Ihwa Mural Village, whose snaking alleyways are full of eye-catching public art and statues depicting typical Korean life. This form of contemporary expression stands in sharp contrast with nearby Naksan Park Fortress Wall, which was first built in the late 1300s during Korea’s Joseon Dynasty and features sweeping views of Seoul and the mountains of Bukhansan.

ARKO Art Center | 아르코미술관
ARKO Art Center | 아르코미술관
ARKO Art Center | 아르코미술관

Seoul’s indie theater scene is also headquartered in Hyehwa, with one of the biggest concentrations of performance-arts spaces in the city. ARKO Art Center, Tintinhol, Madang Cecil Theater, JTN Art Hall, and more are clustered down on “Theater Street,” a modest stretch of marquees a few blocks east of Marronnier Park. Hosting everything from musicals to K-pop and dance performances, you’ll quickly see why so many of the city’s arts-loving residents make Hyehwa their home.

Drop some cash at the area’s signature stationery shops and indie boutiques, then get ready to eat. Catering to a multicultural college kid crowd, Hyehwa’s cuisine leans international. Here you’ll find Hong Kong-style diner Jami the Hong perched alongside the country’s oldest coffee shop, Hakrim Dabang, which has been pouring Viennese brew since 1956. On Sundays, grab ube-flavored treats and homemade empanadas at Daehangno Philippine Market. Or go back in time at the underground Sudowon Bar, where charcuterie and Belgian beers are served by candlelight.

letspicsit/Shutterstock
letspicsit/Shutterstock
letspicsit/Shutterstock

Seongsu

Saddled along the city’s eastern side just north of the Han River awaits super-chic Seongsu-dong. Similar to Mullae-dong, Seongsu is dominated by refurbished factories converted into stylish coffee shops and bars that attract the coolest of Seoulites. Yet while Mullae still sports a gritty edge, Seongsu-dong has been completely transformed over the past decade. What was once a neighborhood of shoe factories and rice mills is now one of Seoul’s trendiest districts, complete with postmodern art exhibits, see-and-be-seen nightclubs, head-turning architecture, and matcha lattes going for 12,000-won (about $9 USD).

A cafe crawl is essential to immersing yourself in the neighborhood. Sip an espresso in the minimalist Recovery Coffee Bar, or head to Tongue Planet for a more maximalist experience: With colorful plush chairs and a ‘70s-hotel look, this oasis of cake, coffee, and art exemplifies quirky Korean cafe culture. Later, kick back in with a coffee at OUDO, whose onsite gallery and sleek outdoor garden go a long way in justifying Seongsu’s reputation as “the Brooklyn of Seoul.”

@gojip132
@gojip132
@gojip132

As for eats, you can sample anything from Italian pasta to Thai stir-fry and Vietnamese pho, but Seongsu is one of the top areas for trying South Korea’s famously succulent galbi barbecue. Pork short ribs are a quintessential part of any Korean BBQ experience, and Daeseong Galbi just might offer the cream of the crop. Located in the carnivorous enclave of Galbi Alley, expect plentiful amounts of banchan to accompany the mouth-watering ribs and other K-BBQ mainstays grilled right at your table.

All that immaculately marinated meat is sure to leave you thirsty. Head over to Villain Bar in the southern end of Seongsu, a dimly lit watering hole tailor made for winding down with a classic cocktail or a Japanese whisky served up with a smile. Then keep the energy flowing at Blue Seongsu, a former art studio turned Mediterranean wine bar. Stocked with a few wooden tables, narrow wooden bar, and cozy windowsill lined with wine bottles, this welcoming spot prides itself on serving some of the best sangria around.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Jennifer Richardson is a contributor for Thrillist. 

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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