Travel

Riviera Nayarit Is Mexico's Dreamiest Beach Escape

Swim with whale sharks, lounge in a bungalow, eat birria.

Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit
Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit
Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit

If you drive about an hour away from the chaos of the Puerto Vallarta Airport, down the highway through a bay surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, the Sierra Madre Mountains looming hefty in the skyline, palm trees and tropical greens waving for miles, you’ll arrive in Riviera Nayarit. The 200-mile stretch of gorgeous, soft-sanded beaches on Mexico’s southwestern coast may not sound as familiar as Cancun, Cabo, or Tulum-and that’s much of the appeal of this buzzy yet not-yet too-touristy destination.

Riviera Nayarit has lush tropical landscapes, humpback whales that (much like humans) spend their winters here, and spicy, fresh ceviche or thinly sliced tiradito, Mexico’s version of sashimi. Even in winter, the sun doesn’t set until after 7 pm, so sunbathers and paperback enthusiasts can enjoy long days unwinding at a new slew of luxury hotels in Riviera Nayarit. Meanwhile active travelers can pack their days with eco-centric excursions, hiking through tropical mangroves, learning to surf Sayulita’s famous waves, navigating the mountains on ATVs, deep sea fishing, or zip lining above the perpetually green treetops.

Remote enough that it feels like an escape for international and Mexican travelers alike, Riviera Nayarit is still full of offerings for foodies, adventure lovers, cultural explorers, luxury-seeking sunbathers, and piña colada sippers. Here’s what to do once you get there.

Conrad Punta de Mita
Conrad Punta de Mita
Conrad Punta de Mita

Fly in with foreigners, mingle with locals

Atlanta, Houston, LA, and Denver all offer direct flights to the nearest airport in Puerto Vallarta, though Riviera Nayarit is about to become even more accessible for East Coasters once JetBlue launches its new route from NYC in early 2022. Though about 75% of visitors are from the US, Nayarit has also long been a popular destination for Mexican tourists, as the nearest beach for many inland residents.You’ll also find cultural practices from the local indigenous Huichol people. Midnight-hued Salsa Huichol, made from local chiles and vinegar, accompanies most meals. Woven and beaded indigenous artwork can be found across the riviera’s several towns. Huitlacoche, known as the “Mexican Truffle” (TLDR: it’s a fungus that grows on corn) is offered at restaurants. And several Huichol traditions are naturally woven into everyday experiences, like a pre-dinner cleansing ritual to leave your stress at the doorway.

Conrad Punta de Mita
Conrad Punta de Mita
Conrad Punta de Mita

Relax or work remotely at luxury hotels

Opened in 2020, the Conrad Punta De Mita boasts waterfront suites and a spacious beach ideal for morning strolls, late afternoon swims, and even whale spotting. The luxe resort itself is mostly outdoors (and social-distancing safe) with a handful of top-notch restaurants (freshly pressed tortillas at breakfast!), a full-service spa boasting house-made oils, and an agave aging and tasting room. Plus you can expect all the creature comforts of a dreamy, tropical vacation: a swim up bar, large pools with cushy bungalows, and ice cold Topo Chico at your heart’s desire.

Meanwhile, the Sayulinda Hotel is ideal for remote workers on an extended work-ation. Steps from the beach and boasting the best rooftop in town (with ocean views!), this newly constructed property is a WiFi-equipped getaway with airy, spacious rooms and plenty of poolside workspace for fresh juice sipping while Zooming.

Sollina Images/Getty Images
Sollina Images/Getty Images
Sollina Images/Getty Images

Watch whales in their winter habitat

Just like humans, whales visit the warm waters surrounding Riviera Nayarit from December through March. Small boat tours with marine biologists help you spot humpbacks as they blow water, flip, and even breach (i.e. jump out of the water). Plus dolphin spotting and bird watching is easy on these boat trips. Book a voyage from Nuevo Vallarta, Bucerías, Punta Mita or Sayulita. Seasick? Whales can also often be spotted from shore in the prime season.

Kelly Mason Photo/Shutterstock
Kelly Mason Photo/Shutterstock
Kelly Mason Photo/Shutterstock

Spend your pesos shopping for crafts and artisan goods

Head to the colorful town square in Sayulita to shop for crafts, handmade jewelry, textiles, paintings, and prints. Vendors display hand-embroidered stuffed animals, multi-hued beaded bracelets, and mask chains (a sign of the times, but a useful souvenir). Galleries, boutiques, and surf shops also line the streets for an air-conditioned shopping experience. Nearby, the town of San Pancho offers some cute, scaled-back shops, plus machete-wielding vendors ready to slice open a coconut or fresh oyster for your slurping consumption.

Shutterstock/xhico
Shutterstock/xhico
Shutterstock/xhico

Feast on birria tacos and the freshest pescado

Before the quesobirria took over TikTok, the birria taco reigned supreme in this region of Mexico. Often made with slow-cooked goat meat (though sometimes with beef, lamb, or even fish), birria tacos are hearty, slightly spicy, and served at street stalls, as well as along the roads between towns in the region. Every local has a favorite spot, so ask for their recommendations, or just veer towards the crowds in a self-led taco tour.

But don’t stop your food tour there-Nayarit’s signature seafood dish is as fresh as it comes, oven plucked right off the boat, butterflied, and grilled within hours of swimming in the Pacific. The catch of the day, often whitefish like red snapper or mahi mahi, can be found at pretty much any beachside restaurant. Luxury properties, like the aforementioned Conrad, can even schedule a boat to deliver the freshly plucked fish beachside. For an upscale Pescado Zarandeado, of course made to order, make a reservation at Tuna Blanca in Punta de Mita.

Sartiaguin Tours y Expediciones
Sartiaguin Tours y Expediciones
Sartiaguin Tours y Expediciones

Swim with whale sharks

Kick swimming with sharks off your bucket list (or add to your tally) with this immersive opportunity to dive towards not-so-dangerous danger, no scuba required. The 20-ton San Blas whale sharks are actually non threatening (just watch out for an accidental whack from the tails), and with a snorkel (plus waterproof camera) you can get pretty close views. The ecotourism experience is in high demand during the colder months, so make sure to book ahead. Before or after the tour, hang out in the quaint fishing village of San Blas, known for its big wave surfing beaches and tropical mangroves, which offer seasonal bird watching and turtle spotting, plus year-round sunbathing.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTwitterPinterestYouTubeTikTok, and Snapchat.

Melissa Kravitz Hoeffner is a writer based in NYC. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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