Travel

Meet the Couple Photographing the Country’s Kitschiest Hotels

A Pretty Cool Hotel Tour's Margaret and Corey Bienert on kitsch, relationships, and heart-shaped tubs.

Design by Maitane Romagosa for Thrillist / Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.
Design by Maitane Romagosa for Thrillist / Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.
Design by Maitane Romagosa for Thrillist / Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.

While there are lovely boutique spots and cool little inns all over the US, most hotel rooms aren’t particularly special. Think beds covered with neutral linens, a (hopefully) clean bathroom decked out with tiny toiletries, and maybe a desk if you’re lucky.

But if you’re looking for something a little more interesting, there’s a whole world of theme and fantasy hotels out there, just waiting to be discovered. Often throwbacks to an era when more Americans were looking for heart-shaped tubs, mirrors on ceilings, and beds that looked like Cadillacs, these kitschy hotels make getting away a lot more fun. They run the gamut in terms of location and price, and they’re also-unfortunately-increasingly hard to find.

For Margaret and Corey Bienert, these little slices of Americana are livable works of art, which they’ve long been documenting on their Instagram account A Pretty Cool Hotel Tour. In their new book Hotel Kitsch, they take readers inside more than 30 of the country’s quirkiest roadside getaways, from the delightfully pink Trixie Motel in Palm Springs to the Cove Pocono Resorts in Pennsylvania, which boasts bathtubs that look like champagne coupes. Below, the Beinerts tell Thrillist how they got started on their kitschy journey, which hotel rooms are the coolest around, and whether heart-shaped tubs are actually comfortable.

Photo by Jacob Boll, courtesy of Artisan Books
Photo by Jacob Boll, courtesy of Artisan Books
Photo by Jacob Boll, courtesy of Artisan Books

Thrillist: How do you define “kitsch”?
Margaret Bienert: The word has changed meaning over the years, at least with our generation. I feel like it previously meant something was negatively tasteless or over the top. When I use it, people in the older generation might say, “That’s so rude,” and I’m a little caught off guard. Because to me, it means playful. Sometimes a motel is literally copying the look of a beach in a room, and that feels kitsch to me. They’re taking inspiration from something real to make something fake.

How did you first get into the world of kitschy hotels?
MB: We have a production company and we were traveling for work. We were staying at a ton of hotels, but they were always the same in every city. I wanted to find something that could be a little bit more fun, because it felt like we weren’t getting any new experiences. We’d work, and then we’d go back to the same old hotel rooms.

I started looking into weird things that were out there to experience, whether it was Airbnb options or unique hotels. On a work trip, we stayed at the Cove Haven resorts in the Poconos, which have heart- and champagne glass-shaped tubs. That was the best experience I’d ever had at a hotel. It was just so cool and weird. So that inspired us to start researching. There are 30-plus locations in the book, but we’ve been to well over 50.

Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.
Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.
Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.

How do you decide which hotels to visit (and when)?
MB: For the first couple years, I had a list of hotels to visit. But because we were funding the project ourselves, we couldn’t just suddenly go to all these hotels. It took us five years of traveling to make this book because we have to earn money for five months and then go travel for a month or two, then earn money for another five.

Corey Bienert: When we were first starting out, we were going to some of the smaller towns where the hotels were more isolated and getting less interest. The longer we’ve been doing the project, though, we’ve broadened our search. Also, there are new places that have opened and the market has changed, which has been a positive thing.

MB: For us, a heart-shaped tub is enough to go visit a hotel. Because sometimes, if there’s a heart-shaped tub, you’ll find that there’s actually other stuff too, but they just don’t advertise it. So if we can find a heart-shaped tub, and we show up and ask for it, then we’ll ask, “Do you have any other theme rooms?” and that’s how we’ve found a lot of unique stuff.

Every once in a while, I’ll reach out to a hotel and say, “We’re doing this series and we’d love to photograph your rooms,” and they’ll say, “Oh, we’re actually going to be doing some updates next year, if you want to come then.” Then I’ll tell Corey, “We have to go now because if we don’t we’ll miss the weird ‘80s or ‘90s decor.”

Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.
Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.
Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.

What are some of the more unique themed hotel rooms you’ve seen?
MB: There was one near Chicago where you could sleep in a bed that looked like a sandwich.

CB: We went to this bed and breakfast in Idaho called the Lions Gate Manor and they have a Phantom Of The Opera suite. It’s almost an entire floor unto itself, and there’s a spiral staircase that leads down through a bookshelf door. It’s super elaborate and very unexpected. We’ve seen other Phantom Of The Opera-themed rooms, but certainly not as elaborate as that one. It felt like you were on the set of the movie.

MB: They even have a two-way mirror, and if you turn on the light behind the mirror, you see a masked man standing there. That was actually really funny, because for years people have been like, “There are definitely two-way mirrors in all these hotels,” and I’d say “No, there’s not,” but when we went to that one, I got to do a video that was like, “Oh my gosh, you guys, we literally found a two-way mirror in this hotel.”

What about the coconut cream pie-themed room on your Instagram?
MB: Oh, my gosh, that was nuts. The Roxbury Motel has been around for 10 years and that room still looks gorgeous.

CB: There’s nothing cookie cutter about any of the rooms at that hotel. They’re all custom-envisioned and custom-created, because the owners are set creators so they came up with the concepts and how to make them a reality. It’s just wild that somebody can not only have imagination for something like that but then also the ability to execute that idea.

Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.
Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.
Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.

What’s it like to stay in these hotels as a couple?
MB: It’s been fun to get out of our comfort zones because these rooms can be so extravagant, but also romantic in their design. It does create environments to have new experiences and conversations, because you may have never seen something before, whether it’s a heart-shaped bed, a heart-shaped tub, or even the erotic furniture that some places have; it gives you this private space as a couple to talk about something or experience it and not have it be weird. Even if it is a little weird, the hotels are very private.

I think that it’s good for couples to have different experiences and to be pulled out of their day-to-day routines. Even if we’re done with the project at some point, I still think I’ll want to take trips to these places because they’re so experiential.

Are heart-shaped tubs actually comfortable?
CB: They’re surprisingly roomy. They’re perfect for two people to sit in, because you each sit with your back at the top of the heart, and then your feet just kind of touch each other at the tip.

MB: I want one in our house because our bath is so much smaller and cramped. Having a heart tub where you can spread out and both be in there and have your own little pocket… I don’t know, I think it’s brilliant.

Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.
Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.
Excerpted from Hotel Kitsch by Margaret and Corey Bienert (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Margaret and Corey Bienert.

Have you brought any elements from these hotels into your own home?
CB: We have a bed that we acquired from a hotel with a honeymoon room in Southern California. It was near Carlsbad and it was called Cardiff By The Sea. We visited last year right before they did a big remodel, and as we were checking in, the guy was like, “We’re gonna be remodeling that room and we’ll probably get rid of all the furniture and stuff.” And so we were like, “Here’s our information-You let us know. We will buy it from you.”

MB: Three days later we got a call: “Do you want the heart-shaped furniture?”

CB: The bed is completely custom carved out of wood. It’s heart-shaped and it’s one of a kind, like nothing we’ve ever seen before. The thing probably weighs 600 pounds. It’s massive.

Is there a holy grail hotel or spot that you’re hoping to get to?
MB: Japan. I know how cool their theme hotels are. They call them love motels. But I’ve really wanted to focus on finishing a series of American hotels before we even do too much research because it can be such a rabbit hole. Their hotels are just next level.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Marah Eakin is a contributor for Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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