Travel

This Hidden Mountain Village Is Like a Warp Zone to Bavaria

You can't keep a good winter wunderland down.

Photo courtesy of Icicle TV
Photo courtesy of Icicle TV
Photo courtesy of Icicle TV

A couple years ago, a pair of road-tripping German friends asked me for a good place to get out into nature in my native Washington. I could have sent them practically anywhere, but I told them to drive east of Seattle for a couple hours until they hit the town of Leavenworth.

I gave them zero context. A few hours later they called me: “Vhere are we and vhy does it look like Bavaria?” 

Leavenworth emerges from the dense, winding forests of the Cascade Mountains like a dream. As the town snaps into focus, a uniform Tudor aesthetic emerges in direct contrast to the timber towns that preceded it along Highway 2. Alpine buildings and A-frame homes envelope you in a Bavarian feel so authentic you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d gone through a wormhole to Europe. 

Strolling the hotel-packed downtown, you’ll pass German-style steinhouses and restaurants serving giant platters of schnitzel and kraut at eateries like Andreas Keller Restaurant and Leavenworth Sausage Garten. Lederhosen-clad polka musicians walk the streets en route to gigs. German sausages hang in the windows amid a row of shops hocking chocolates and pretzels. A line perpetually forms at the Nutcracker Museum, whether it’s the dead of summer or under a blanket of snow. Even the McDonald’s is decked out in German finery.

If that sounds slightly cheesy, well, it can be. That, too, is part of the charm. 

Photo courtesy of Icicle TV
Photo courtesy of Icicle TV
Photo courtesy of Icicle TV

Leavenworth assumed its Bauernhaus-style architecture back in the ‘60s in an attempt to draw tourists to the sleepy railway town. It’s hardly the only US town leaning into the aesthetic, but Leavenworth’s mountainous backdrop and relative isolation register on a different level: Today, the town of 2,000 brings in some 2 million annual visitors. 

Most come for the holidays, even this year, despite the official cancellation of the signature tree lighting and New Year countdown. While many holiday events are on hold and indoor dining is off limits, the citywide lights remain a draw. Meanwhile, just outside of town, the iconic Leavenworth Reindeer Farm and other sites are offering up Santa action. Those looking for sleigh rides can take them in the meadows surrounding town, and more socially distant lodging is available at RV parks and glamping oasis Leavenworth Tiny House Village. Christmas remains the lifeblood of Leavenworth tourism, and the city has come together to ensure things don’t go dark. 

Still, the holidays are hardly the only reason to come here in the winter. Many just come for the overall vibe. Here, surrounded by mountains, you can actually feel transported if you let the mood sweep over you and embrace it all. It helps that it’s adjacent to world-class skiing and some of the most celebrated climbing routes in the US, plus hiking in the surrounding Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest and watersports on the Wenatchees River and Lake.

“There are lots of restaurants and shops, so if you’re into retail therapy, this is the place for you,” says Patrick Ryan, general manager at the busy Stein and Bavarian Bistro & Bar. “Plenty of wineries, breweries, and cider as well. People are friendly and the tourists from around the world are mostly just happy to be on vacation, so it’s a pleasant place to work.” 

Photo courtesy of Icicle TV
Photo courtesy of Icicle TV
Photo courtesy of Icicle TV

Leavenworth’s destination status has been a boon for tourism, but isn’t without its problems for locals. With one road in and out, streets are often packed with traffic. And as the popularity rises, so too does the cost of living. 

“While most of us appreciate the many benefits of the tourism economy, we do not want to become just a resort made up largely of retirees and second homes,” says Mayor Carl Florea, who has lived in Leavenworth since 1985. “It is crucial that we are able to house a significant number of our own workforce here. This is the biggest challenge facing Leavenworth today.”

Those issues have left locals struggling from the sidelines and overwhelmed by the crush of weekenders. Visitors who want a little more breathing room this winter can avoid high crowds by visiting in the weeks after Christmas. 

“If you really like the lights of the Christmas season, a great time to visit is in January or February as the lights remain up, but the crowds are much smaller,” says Florea, adding that fall and spring are also particularly lovely, and typically way less crowded. 

Photo courtesy of Icicle TV
Photo courtesy of Icicle TV
Photo courtesy of Icicle TV

COVID’s sting was especially harsh in the wake of Oktoberfest and Christmastime cancelations. And as with many part of the country, restaurants and shops have flitted between open and closed and endured the ebb and flow of capacity issues. 

But Leavenworth has done its best to meet the moment. Street closures and expanded patio dining downtown have lent the area an even more timeless vibe. And while the aesthetic has caused some friction, it’s given Leavenworth a wholly unique advantage: In an era where international travel is largely on hold, its authenticity and location provide a taste of an international experience for those willing to surrender to its charms. 

Which is to say, don’t expect to see that Bavarian aesthetic go away anytime soon. 

“It is woven into the fabric of the community and offers a great deal of opportunities that most communities our size don’t have,” explained the mayor. “While I don’t see us ever transitioning away from the Bavarian theme, I do think we need to be more strategic in our growth.”

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Nick Hilden is a contributor for Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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