Travel

A London Stationary Shop Where Choosing Paper Is a Sensual Journey

"That's the nice thing about stationery. It's about a feeling."

Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping
Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping
Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping

Rounding the corner of Tower Street in London’s tourist-frenzied Covent Garden, you’ll come across the peaceful haven of Choosing Keeping, a red-brick storefront whose glass windows glisten as solar-powered light mills twirl. Step inside and you won’t be able to resist running your hands over rolls of wrapping paper resembling the finest brocade; a vitrine filled with every hue of watercolors and pastels; and a collection of sewn-bound composition notebooks that evoke cherished memories of back-to-school shopping.

While some visitors might catch sight of the shop as they stumble down the road, tourists obsessed with all things well-made and utilitarian treat it as a destination in its own right. After all, there’s a certain thrill attached to obtaining a notebook or pen on one’s travels.

“People buy stationery thinking they might use it during their holiday, when they’ll finally have time to sit down and write that letter,” says Choosing Keeping owner Julia Jeuvell. “We also have a lot of customers who will buy a notebook and then-graphically or in words-tell the story of their travels.”

Visiting a stationery shop is an excellent way to get to know a city’s local artisans, its cultural mascots (Hello Kitty in Tokyo, Miffy in Amsterdam), its signature materials (leather pouches in Florence), and its retail landscape. Plus, there’s something to be said about owning a brand of pencil that you wouldn’t be able to find anywhere else-what Jeuvell calls “the exotic nature of foreign goods that are otherwise available to you domestically.”

Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping
Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping
Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping

If you find yourself visiting one stationery store after the next during your travels, you’ll start to notice the same brand of pencil sharpener or mechanical pencil, even if it’s a so-called “specialty” shop. But not at Choosing Keeping, where each product is so distinct, you’ll likely never have seen it before. That’s because products undergo a rigorous selection process favoring small, mostly family-owned businesses. Thus, items painstakingly sourced from all over the world remain in their native packaging-i.e. tiny boxes of Kaweco ink cartridges that say “Since 1883 Germany,” or gummy erasers encased in Japanese labels.

Originally opened in 2012, the shop had tiny beginnings on Columbia Road, the East London street famous for its flower market. It was a time when the old-fashioned was making a comeback, àla vinyl records. Fast forward to 2018, when a new Choosing Keeping rightfully took up some space on Tower Street. The location is just the right amount of expansive, allowing you to spend hours mulling over that new notebook purchase without feeling like you’re being watched.

While the shop is an item to cross off the London to-do list, the store is a journey in itself. As a child, the French-born Jeuvell spent much of her life traveling. As a shopkeeper, she spends time visiting factories and family-owned businesses across the world: Germany for kitschy Christmas paraphernalia; Osaka for nearly-extinct celluloid fountain pens; Paris for Antoinette Poisson dominoté decorative papers.

For Jeuvell, stationery is a lot like wine, with its own sense of terroir. “I like to think the product is really a flavor of the people,” she says.

Take, for example, the shop’s collection of scissors, whose flat handles express the same archival design as vintage eyewear. The gold and silver beauties come from the northern Italian town of Premana, near Lake Como, and are one of Jeuvell’s favorite examples of how environment informs industry.

“We went to see where [they] are made in Italy-this very small village that’s kind of hooked to the mountains. It takes a great deal of time to get there,” she explains. “We were thinking, ‘Why do they have this quite heavy industry in this very hard-to-get-to village? Then they explained to us that, historically, there’s been iron ore in this mountain for thousands of years.”

Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping
Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping
Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping

The spiffy shears, which today are made from steel, are just one of the products that express a distinct locality. Customers are also enamored with the shop’s aluminum tins of glue, which have been produced in Genoa since the 1930s. It also helps that it smells of almonds.

“I just think, ‘Ooh, the Italians, they had to make things delicious,'” Jeuvell says. “[The owner] Mr. Balma, he’s really the most socially responsible owner of a company that I’ve met in my 10 years of stationery. He will give a prize every year to employees who have been there for 20 and 40 years. I’m always blown away. How many companies have employees that they can say have been there for that long?”

The customer base of Choosing Keeping is as eclectic as the wares on display. Prop stylists and set designers search the treasure trove for unique objects to make movie magic. Jeuvell is always delighted when Japanese customers enter the store and are surprised to find the niche, old-fashioned brands that have fallen out of favor in their own country. “I had a Japanese customer who said, ‘It’s Japan, but better than Japan,'” she says.

Then there’s the class of customers that Jeuvell likes to call the “stationery nerds.” She explains, “They’re not flaneurs. They’re really sniffing out technical products, usually full of questions, and just generally very enthusiastic.”

The appeal applies to those who are on a chase for perfectionism, people who like things just so-how the pen feels on the page, how one notebook will feel fine, but the other won’t. “It’s sensual as well. That’s the nice thing about stationery,” she says. “It’s about a feeling.”

Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping
Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping
Photo by Liz Seabrook, courtesy of Choosing Keeping

Stationery provides an opportunity to disconnect, and goes hand-in-hand with the resurgence of interest in journaling as a means to prioritize mental health. “Stationery is now linked to ‘de-digitalising, or ‘going analogue’-to get off screens and give precedence to one’s internal feelings and meanderings,” Jeuvell says. And when we’re on vacation, ready to unwind, journals and sketchbooks aid in that relaxation. “It’s no longer really a work tool, but in fact a tool of idleness and aimlessness-in a nice romantic and metic way.”

When it comes to finding the best stationery abroad, Jeuvell suggests pinning neighborhoods that offer independent retail and, once there, seeking out domestic brands. “I’d always rather show a humble notebook you might find in a bog-standard mom and pop shop in a small village in Italy,” she says. “When you’re there, sometimes it’s hard to see that it’s special. It takes taking it out of context to say, ‘Look at this-beautiful, simple, well-made.'”Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Jessica Sulima is a staff writer on the Travel team at Thrillist. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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