Hidden Gems

Believe It Or Not, This Beachy National Park Sits Just Outside Chicago

Trade deep-dish pizza for paradise.

Jon Lauriat/iStock/Getty Images
Jon Lauriat/iStock/Getty Images
Jon Lauriat/iStock/Getty Images

In terms of outdoor beauty and natural splendor, Indiana probably isn’t the first state that comes to mind; after all, a place best known for its annual car races doesn’t exactly scream “conservation.” But one peek at Indiana Dunes National Park, one of the most surprising units in the National Park System, and you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to Hawaii-unless you visit in the winter, when the distinctions become much clearer.

For a park so proximal to urban areas-the smoggy Chicago skyline towers in the distance-Indiana Dunes feels worlds away, a peaceful respite of pristine shoreline and Splenda-soft sand so close to the city that Chicagoans can get to a national park quicker than they can get to O’Hare.

Of course, that proximity goes both ways. When Indiana Dunes was initially designated as a national park, some bemoaned the audacity of putting a beach bookended by power plants in the same category as Yellowstone. But ever the underrated sleeper hit, Indiana Dunes is full of surprises even the harshest critics can’t ignore: Indiana Dunes has more biodiversity than even Yellowstone-and almost all other national parks.

It was this abundance of diverse, delicate vegetation that spurred a movement, led by the “father of plant ecology” Henry Cowles, to preserve the lakeshore in the late-1800s as steel mills and power plants sprouted up like noxious weeds; it grew from a state park in 1926 and a national lakeshore in 1966 before gaining national park status-and increased protections-in 2019.

Today, despite being one of the smallest national parks by size, Indiana Dunes is now the 11th most visited park in the country with 2.3 million annual tourists. And in any case, it’s all about quality over quantity here, where prairies, swamps, bayou-looking wetlands, and sand dunes the size of small mountains-all open for hiking, camping, kayaking, and birdwatching-all overlook a lake so tropical blue you feel like you should be wearing a lei.

Jon Lauriat/iStock/Getty Images
Jon Lauriat/iStock/Getty Images
Jon Lauriat/iStock/Getty Images

When to visit Indiana Dunes National Park

Being so close to Chicago means Indiana Dunes National Park shares the same infamously drastic weather swings as the Windy City, from polar vortexes in the winter to sweltering humidity in the summer, meaning every season in the park comes with its own unique experiences.

Summer is prime time for visitation as far as weather goes, particularly because the lakefront is basically a sustainable South Beach for Chicagoans. When temps get hot, especially in July and August, locals flock here to splash in a particularly pristine portion of Lake Michigan, throw picnics, and sunbathe on the silken sand. Around this time of year, you’ll be joined by the vast majority of the park’s 2.3 million annual visitors, so arrive early or prepare for a little parking lot road rage.

Early fall is lovely and far more peaceful, with diminishing crowds, cooler temps, and luminous foliage. Though it’ll be too chilly to swim, sweater weather season has its own rewards-plus you can make a whole Indiana day of it and go apple picking nearby.

Spring in the Midwest is a fickle beast, vacillating between surprisingly warm days and surprisingly arctic ones as wildflowers begin to bloom and the incredibly wholesome maple sugar festival gets underway. And then there’s winter. On the one hand, you can go cross-country skiing or snowshoeing in the park, and likely have it all to yourself. On the other hand, “frozen windswept hellscape” is a phrase that will apply, so brace yourself accordingly.

PhotosByLarissaB/Shutterstock
PhotosByLarissaB/Shutterstock
PhotosByLarissaB/Shutterstock

Lounge on the Midwest’s most popular lakeshore

The most surprising aspect of Indiana Dunes, especially in light of its dainty acreage, is the immensity of outdoor activities to be had here. Despite the fact that the park is 146 times smaller than Yellowstone, it really maximizes its usability with some 50 miles of hiking trails, 37 miles of bike paths, 15 miles of preserved shoreline for swimming and sandcastle construction, and fishing aplenty from the Little Calumet River to the Portage Lakefront pier.

The most popular attraction in Indiana Dunes, though, is, of course, the lakeshore-all 15 miles of it. The park is divvied into different beaches, like West Beach, Porter Beach, and Dunbar Beach, each with its own parking lot, potable water, and restrooms.

Glass containers and fires are prohibited on the beach, but West Beach and Lake View Beach have dedicated grilling areas for cookouts. Otherwise, the lake is an all-natural playground for swimming, sunbathing, and picnicking, and sunset strolls are absolutely stunning in the summer.

drewthehobbit/Shutterstock
drewthehobbit/Shutterstock
drewthehobbit/Shutterstock

Go hiking, biking, and up and down the dunes

While much of the hiking trails are relatively flat and easy (this is the Midwest, lest you forget), the dunes will get your heart pumping with surprisingly intense elevation. Easier, shorter jaunts include the paved half-mile Calumet Dunes Trail and Dune Ridge Trail, which weaves through wetlands, forests, and dunes in under a mile.

Things get tougher on the Mount Baldy Beach Trail, a short but steep ascent to get to the lake, or the three-mile Tolleston Dunes Trail, which puts the park’s biodiversity on full display with oak savanna habitats, wetlands, lupines, and even prickly pear cactus. (Yes-cacti in the Midwest!).

For cyclists, the park’s biking trail system encompasses plenty of mileage between the Calumet Bike Trail, the Dunes Kankakee Bike Trail, the Prairie Duneland Bike Trail, and others, while the Glenwood Dunes Trails provide an opportunity for horseback riding as the only equestrian area in the park.

If you’re bold enough to bundle up for a wintry visit, snowshoes and cross-country skis can be rented from the Paul H. Douglas Center for Environmental Education for use on the Paul H. Douglas Trail. You’re welcome to venture elsewhere, but you’ll need to BYO your own winter gear in other parts of the park.

Things to know before you go

Starting March 31, 2022, the Indiana Dunes park entrance fee will be $25 per vehicle or $15 for individuals entering on foot, bike, or boat. This is not to be confused with the adjoining Indiana Dunes State Park, which charges an entry fee of $7 for in-state vehicles or $12 for out-of-state plates.

If you’re visiting during the summer months, beach parking lots fill up quickly, especially on weekends or holidays. All are open from 6 am until 11 pm daily, but you’ll want to arrive on the earlier side-by mid-morning, at least-to ensure you can snag a spot. Conversely, you can wait out the rush and arrive later in the afternoon, when the earlier flood of visitors ebbs.

West Beach, one of the more popular entry points, has the largest lot, and it’s also the only beach with lifeguards. Swimming is fun and all, but it’s important to be mindful and cautious; Lake Michigan is the size of a sea and acts like it, with periodic rip currents and high waves. Heed rip current warnings posted at beaches, but should you find yourself tugged into deeper water, try and stay calm and swim parallel to shore to get out of it.

Whether you’re slumming it at the beach or hiking through the wetlands, it’s also important to bring plenty of sunscreen, water, and bug spray. Sun-shielding hats and sunglasses are also advised.

Eddie J. Rodriquez/Shutterstock
Eddie J. Rodriquez/Shutterstock
Eddie J. Rodriquez/Shutterstock

Where to stay near Indiana Dunes National Park

The main on-site option is Dunewood Campground, open April 1 through November 1 with dozens of tent and RV sites at $25 per night, and Lake View Beach nearby. Affordable chains abound right outside the park, like the Hilton Garden Inn Chesterton or Baymont by Wyndham Portage Indiana Dunes.

For something a little funkier, Riley’s Railhouse is a B&B in an old freight train station, brimming with railroad antiques and rooms overlooking active train tracks. For more amenities and urban proximity, Indiana Dunes’ easy access to smaller cities like Gary and Michigan City provides plenty of lodging options.

Then, obviously, there’s Chicago under an hour away, loaded with every hotel or Airbnb imaginable, lots of solid neighborhood options, and essentially every other creature comfort-including deep-dish pizza and other non-negotiable Chicago essentials-we wish all national park trips could offer. Best of all: From the Windy City, you can hop on the South Shore Train, which can take you straight to the dunes.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, YouTube, TikTok, and Snapchat.

Matt Kirouac is a travel writer with a passion for national parks, Disney, and food. He’s the co-founder and co-host of Hello Ranger, a national parks community blog, podcast, and app. Follow him on IG @matt_kirouac.

Hidden Gems

Get Refreshed on This Tranquil Florida Island

Come for the beaches, stay for the shrimp festivals and pirates.

The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island
The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island
The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island

Between Key West, Everglades National Park, Miami, and an adorable rodent named Mickey Mouse, Florida reigns as the quintessential summertime vacation destination. But amidst all the well-trod destinations, one comparatively quiet island on the state’s northernmost coast is an oceanic sleeper hit with all the “fun in the sun,” minus the hordes. In fact, Amelia Island is so far north-about 45 minutes north of Jacksonville-that it’s practically Georgia, with native flora that looks more Savannah than South Beach and with historic lore and nautical noshes to match.

Part of the same string of barrier islands that hug Georgia’s coast, Amelia Island is the first of that chain to cross the state line. Considering its geographic proximity, it’s no wonder that the 13-mile-long island is draped in Spanish moss and is refreshingly cooler than the rest of the sweltering state. It’s a place of Native American stories and swashbuckling history, of tortoises and gingerbread pirate ships, and of shrimp festivals and CBD-infused spa treatments. Amelia was populated for centuries by the Timucua people before Spanish explorers, pirates, and Civil War fortresses came barging in, and long before the island’s Fernandina Beach became a bastion of brick-lined sidewalks, Victorian buildings, fudge shops, and saloons.

Unlike the palm tree-lined calamity of South Beach, the swarming theme parks of central Florida, the burnt rubber of Daytona Beach, or even the surprising New Orleans-y vibes of Pensacola, the serenity of Amelia Island, woven with trout-filled waterways and lined with luxury hotels, feels like a slice of Floridian life all its own.

The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island
The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island
The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island

Where to stay on Amelia Island

Rising like a castle on the sandy shores, The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island is the queen of the island. And like any regal queen, the property celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2021 in style, with a thorough glow up. The crown jewel of Amelia Island glistens even more brightly these days, with refreshed balcony-equipped rooms, design touches and tones inspired by the surrounding natural landscape, and enough high-quality restaurants to cater a jubilee.

Steps from the beach, the property is the ultimate oceanfront oasis, equipped with Floridian essentials like an 18-hole golf course, a fully loaded spa with CBD-infused massages and their signature zero-gravity touch therapy in hand-woven hammocks, and heated pools with chic, shaded cabanas. Guests can embark on the resort naturalist program, taking a leisurely walking tour around the property to learn about the flora and fauna, including the rare chance to see both sand-digging gopher tortoises and marsh rabbits on the same dune, surely contemplating a footrace. With a big concentration on the culinary (more on that later), the hotel offers monthly “chef’s theater” cooking demonstrations, as well as “Hook, Line & Cruise” outings, where guests embark on fishing excursions, culminating with ceviche prepared by a chef back on the dock.

For something a bit more intimate, Amelia Island boasts quaint inns like Elizabeth Point Lodge, a Nantucket-style cottage B&B right on the beach. Their smattering of suites and guest rooms are equipped with four-poster beds, balconies, and a charming front porch lined with rocking chairs. Closer to downtown Fernandina Beach, Williams House is a B&B that oozes romance and charm, with two-course breakfasts each morning and 10 rooms scattered across three carriage houses and Antebellum mansions.

Timoti's Seafood Shak
Timoti’s Seafood Shak
Timoti’s Seafood Shak

Binge on shrimp and blackened fish tacos

Say what you will about Florida, but the state has good seafood-some of the best in the country, in fact. Amelia Island in particular is the kind of nautical nirvana where chefs go fishing early in the morning and then serve their catch at lunch, or even fillet it on the marina dock right before your eyes.

On the casual end of the spectrum, Timoti’s Seafood Shack in downtown Fernandina Beach is the kind of place that slings Spongebob-worthy crab patty burgers, fried oyster baskets, hush puppies, and blackened mahi tacos-and hangs signage that reads “No shoes, no shirt, no shrimp!”

Nestled under a bridge at a marina, Down Under has become a dockside institution all its own. Formerly a fish camp that sold bait to fishermen before being turned into a seafaring restaurant in 1982, it’s become an iconic stopover. Anglers looking to drop anchor at the dock hunker down on the huge deck for creamy crab dip, peel-and-eat shrimp, and grouper Monterey, broiled under a layer of molten Monterey Jack cheese and caramelized onions.

Salt at The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island
Salt at The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island
Salt at The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island

On the higher end, seafood shines at the myriad restaurants at The Ritz-Carlton. Coast is the most locally inspired, offering an elevated take on Florida’s bounty. They source fish and seafood from local fishermen for dishes like shrimp Louie salads, garlic-buttery shrimp boules (basically a kind of shrimp chowder in a fresh bread bowl), and blackened flounder sandwiches, alongside pimento-filled arancini and fried green tomatoes slathered in gooey Burrata. Poolside Coquina takes a Latin approach, with bracingly fresh catch-of-the-day ceviche, spicy shrimp aguachile, and whole roasted fish wrapped in banana leaves and spritzed with lime.

Then there’s Salt, the ritziest of the restaurants at The Ritz, so named for its emphasis on infused sea salts. Expertly deployed by seasoned chef Okan Kizilbayir, the regal restaurant features ever-changing tasting menus inspired by both land and sea, served up in artful presentations with sauces poured table side and dainty scoops of ice cream gilded with edible gold. Whether a la carte or prix fixe, Kizilbayir’s menu changes constantly, from a squid ink paella with lobster soffrito to a schnitzel-looking blackened skate with a lustrous butternut escabeche broth. If you can snag a reservation, it’s all best enjoyed at the two-person chef’s table in a wine-filled room inside the kitchen.

For something more sugar than salt, hit up the aptly dubbed Fernandina’s Fantastic Fudge. This cute and kitschy sweet shop is still stirring fudge, pralines, caramels, and other treats the old fashioned way. They churn the goods with long wooden paddles, then fold and flip the cooled concoction with so much gumption that there are fudge stains on the ceiling.

The Palace Saloon
The Palace Saloon
The Palace Saloon

Drink with buccaneers and ghosts

Indoor-outdoor bars with live music are a popular pastime on the island, exemplified by local cornerstones like Green Turtle Tavern. The huge bar looks like a lowcountry cabin, or like a real life version of True Blood‘s Merlotte’s. But instead of vampires and bottled blood, it’s country bands and reggae musicians with a side of frozen strawberry margaritas.

Just around the corner, Palace Saloon peddles a different kind of kitsch-the type that involves boozy punch and ghost stories. Established in 1903, it’s one of the oldest continuously operating bars in Florida, even discreetly making sales through Prohibition. In its earliest heyday, this rustic watering hole was a veritable Cheers for thirsty ship captains. Nowadays, it’s a preserved-in-time relic outfitted with a dusty jukebox, mosaic-tile floors, and an ornate wood bar that looks like something out of Hill House-which makes sense, considering the saloon may or may not be haunted by the booze-loving ghost of a former bartender. The drink of choice? The deceptively boozy Pirate’s Punch, made with banana liqueur, triple sec, white rum, Amaretto, grenadine, orange juice, and pineapple juice.

Back at the encompassing Ritz-Carlton, The Lobby Bar, despite its modest name, wows with meticulous mixology. Their roster includes old fashioneds smoked in an elaborate glass box that looks like an A+ science project, alongside jaw-dropping sushi platters large enough to satiate a great white.

The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island
The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island
The Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island

Lounge on beaches full of history

In addition to aforementioned ocean-to-table fishing excursions, Amelia Island is teeming with outdoor recreation for the naval historian, the paddle boarder, and everyone in between. Naturally, beach-going is a primary pastime here, with 13 miles of sandy shoreline and more than 40 public access points with free parking. (Pro tip: If you have a Florida license plate, you’re allowed to drive your vehicle right onto the beach in select areas, for optimal sunrise vibes.)

The island’s beaches are divvied into three main sections: the Main Beach, Central Amelia Island, and American Beach. The former is nicknamed the “family zone” for its beachfront restaurants, mini golf, volleyball courts, playgrounds, and picnic shelters. Whereas Central Amelia Island has more recreational options, like paddle board rentals, kayaking, and walking and biking trails through marshy Egans Creek Greenway. Then there’s American Beach, a parcel of shoreline set aside in 1935 by the Pension Bureau of the Afro-American Life Insurance Company to combat the state’s segregation laws. Over the years, it served as an oceanic getaway for famed sunbathers like Ray Charles and James Brown, and today it’s a stop on Florida’s Black Heritage Trail.

On the very northern tip of Amelia Island, Fort Clinch State Park is a mashup of nature and ironclad Civil War lore. Nestled along the St. Mary’s River that separates Florida from Georgia, and lined with rows of olden cannons, sits a brick fortress that was initially constructed in 1847 to defend the US against foreign invaders, a la the War of 1812. Following the start of the Civil War, the fort began under Confederate control until Union troops took over in 1862. Today, visitors can explore the fort’s various labyrinthine rooms or branch out and hike along oak-lined trails throughout the 1,400-acre park.

Amelia Island
Amelia Island
Amelia Island

Party like a pirate

As evidenced by the kitschy taverns, fudge-flinging candy shops, and the omnipresence of wooden pirate statues scattered throughout Fernandina Beach, Amelia Island isn’t shy about getting eccentric. Indeed, it’s prime territory for some of the quirkiest fetes in Florida, like the wildly popular Isle of Eight Flags Shrimp Festival. A celebration of one of the island’s most popular provisions (as seen on every restaurant menu in the vicinity), the festival is like Lollapalooza for shellfish. Celebrations are comprised of parades, art shows, artisan vendors, elaborately decorated shrimp boats, pirate-themed costume contests, and the Miss Shrimp Festival Pageant. Held annually in late-April and/or early-May, it’s not uncommon to see giant shrimp floats roving through downtown Fernandina Beach and dogs trotting by in shrimp costumes, past a sea of food vendors slinging all manner of shrimpy specialties.

Speaking of pirates, their swashbuckling lore inspires another seasonal pastime here on the island. The deep waters at Port Fernandina were once an easy retreat for pirate ships, and therefore used to be a haven for the likes of Blackbeard and Luis Aury. The island is now a haven for another kind of pirate ship-one made of gingerbread. The S.S. Amelia is an annual holiday tradition at The Ritz-Carlton, where a giant gingerbread pirate ship drops anchor in the lobby for the season, complete with cookie cannons, a candy-filled treasure chest, masts and sails, and of course, a pirate captain who is technically edible.

Other happenings include the annual Right Whale Festival, held every November as an altruistic celebration of the whale that comes to northeast Florida to give birth. The family-friendly event is designed to raise awareness for the endangered species, offering edutainment elements alongside food trucks, live music, and ocean-themed activities for kids.

Then, come new year, you won’t be surprised to learn that instead of a ball drop, Amelia Island hosts a shrimp drop in downtown Fernandina Beach. A giant bedazzled shrimp is lowered at the stroke of midnight, beckoning a whole new year of fishing, ceviche-eating, and gingerbread piracy.

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Matt Kirouac is a travel writer with a passion for national parks, Disney, and food. He’s the co-founder and co-host of Hello Ranger, a national parks community blog, podcast, and app. Follow him on IG @matt_kirouac.

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