Travel

You Can Play Lighthouse Keeper on Lake Michigan for $200 a Week

You basically get to live in a Great Lakes postcard.

jscottsmith / shutterstock
jscottsmith / shutterstock
jscottsmith / shutterstock

Michigan’s west coast offers up a near-endless parade of postcard sights: sweeping sand dunes, fudge shops, idyllic small towns, and pristine beaches come one after another. Naturally, that also includes that most dreamy of waterfront landmarks: Lighthouses. It’s near impossible to come across one and not fantasize about a quiet life as a keeper: Just you, the waves, your thoughts, and sometimes a wildly drunk Willem Dafoe

Turns out, that fantasy is pretty easy to attain (minus Willem Dafoe), and in one of the most beautiful and popular parts of the Lake Michigan coast you can do it cheap. For around $200 a week-a fraction of the price charged for cabins, hotels, and Airbnbs in this heavily touristed area-you can call one of these timeless landmarks home for a spell. Oh, sure, you’ll have to do a little light labor, but it’s not like you’ll be lugging huge lightbulbs up stairs during a Nor’easter.

But you better act fast: These suckers are already booking up fast for 2021. Turns out that in an age of social isolation, this particular fantasy is getting more and more common.

Courtesy of Traverse City Tourism
Courtesy of Traverse City Tourism
Courtesy of Traverse City Tourism

Mission Point Lighthouse

Located near vibrant Traverse City, the Mission Point Lighthouse is an absolute steal hiding in plain sight near one of the state’s most coveted (and pricey) vacation destinations. You can crash for $200 a week or $370 for two consecutive weeks. But you’re going to have to work for it… and that’s kind of the fun. 

Each week, a pair of keepers scores that drastically reduced price in exchange for window-washing, sweeping, vacuuming, and working the gift shop. And you get Wednesday off, which may or may not be embedded in the ancient Lighthouse Keeper Code. 

It’s not exactly backbreaking labor, and the perks of this particular job are unmatched: the lighthouse is located at the northern tip of the Old Mission Peninsula, which juts 19 miles into Grand Traverse Bay. You’ll have free reign over the sprawling lawn, spankin’ new Adirondack chair, and soft sands, plus access to hiking trails and the peninsula’s superlative wineries. All for less than $30 a night. 

Want an even more solitary experience? During the mighty northern winters-which some say are the most brutal in the country, but Michiganders just call “cozy”- you can take advantage of the “Off Season Keepers” program from December through April. The duties are essentially the same, minus the gift shop. The closed season also differs in that the rates are lower, you can play keeper solo, and weekend-only stays are an option.

Courtesy of Traverse City Tourism
Courtesy of Traverse City Tourism
Courtesy of Traverse City Tourism

Grand Traverse Lighthouse

Ensconced in the beautiful Leelanau State Park near adorable Northport, the Grand Traverse Lighthouse can accommodate up to four adults at a time in the former assistant keeper’s quarters at a scant $150 per person per week. 

With a prime location on the very tip of Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula-the pinkie of the mitten, Michigan’s most bountiful wine country, and home to some of the nation’s very best beaches, period-you’ll be staying at one of the most beautiful spots in the lower 48. This program also offers one day off a week, so there’s plenty to explore in the area in terms of wineries, outstanding lake towns, and all the unique coastal Michigan nature you can handle. 

Guest lightkeepers get access to a handbook for their Friday to Friday weekly stay. Responsibilities include managing the flow of the on-site museum admissions, helping in the retail gift shop, and general building and grounds maintenance. Technically, booze isn’t allowed inside (sorry Willem).

This property also offers a winter keeper program from December through April. Embrace your inner Scandinavian and bring Nordic skis and snowshoes to get the most of the over 1,300 acres to explore in the nearby state park, which are all but empty in the winter.Sign up here for our daily Thrillist email, get Next Flight Out for more travel coverage, and subscribe here for our YouTube channel to get your fix of the best in food/drink/fun.

Katy Spratte Joyce is a contributor for Thrillist.
 

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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