Travel

This Beautiful Region of Patagonia Was Devastated By Wildfires This Month

Here's how you can help.

ATicuS/Moment Open/Getty Images
ATicuS/Moment Open/Getty Images
ATicuS/Moment Open/Getty Images

I moved from the suburbs of Michigan to Argentine Patagonia in 2009, and haven’t regretted it a single day since. My three kids grew up climbing ancient knotty ñire trees, swimming alongside massive trout in transparent glacial rivers, gathering walnuts in autumn and shelling them by the woodstove. Days are spent working in the garden and enjoying long, leisurely lunches with neighbours. The surreal natural beauty that surrounds my little adobe home in El Bolsón, not too far from the legendary road trip Route 40, is astounding.

But it is the kind and welcoming community I appreciate most. Twelve years ago, as a newcomer who barely spoke Spanish, my neighbours were inviting me to asados and sharing holiday traditions in no time. I’ve gotten close to this community by teaching English, hosting seed exchanges, receiving guests on my land for meditation and sacred medicine retreats, and collaborating with the indigenous Mapuche to study native medicinal plants.

Earlier this month, I sat on my roof in absolute shock to watch over 75,000 acres of pristine Patagonian forest get completely devoured by wildfire. The flames destroyed close to 300 homes and left over 1,000 of my Patagonian neighbours without shelter. The latest fire, on March 9, moved in so fast and was so widespread that it is estimated to have burned 2.5 acres every 3.5 seconds. The local Golondrinas Fire Station burned to the ground.

Photo courtesy of Greenpeace Argentina
Photo courtesy of Greenpeace Argentina
Photo courtesy of Greenpeace Argentina

There is no home insurance in this rural area; many live in humble dwellings that took years to build with their own hands, heated by wood collected on their land, nourished by food from their own gardens and livestock. Many of those people are now living in tents made from a few sticks and black plastic, as the harsh Patagonian winter fast approaches.

There’s my neighbour Juan who, when he realized he had no escape route from the encroaching flames, managed to hide with two small children in a pool of water. There’s Marcelo the mechanic, who had to be dragged off his land by firefighters because he was trying to move as many clients’ vehicles as possible until the very last second. There’s “man-of-few-words” Pablo, who held back tears as he gave me a tour of the home he built 20 years ago, now reduced to rubble and ash.

While donations of clothing and household items have poured in from around the country, the government’s promises to send aid have yet to materialize. There has been next to no news coverage of the crisis, and I have yet to find any non-profit organizations mobilizing to help these communities. As part of the grassroots effort here, I am working with a team of volunteer professional builders who are on the ground every day, getting up as many structures as possible to house young families and the elderly. They offer their time, their tools, and their skillset, but they need roofing, insulation, water tanks, and wood stoves. I am soliciting donations and posting updates on our building progress on Instagram.

Photo courtesy of Greenpeace Argentina
Photo courtesy of Greenpeace Argentina
Photo courtesy of Greenpeace Argentina

Meanwhile, volunteer firefighters have been going in on motorcycle and horseback, often with nothing more than some water in a backpack and hand tools. A local GoFundMe hopes to outfit at least one volunteer fire brigade with necessary equipment such as VHF handheld radios, fire pump backpacks, quality boots, fire-retardant suits, gloves, and goggles.

Our community is already thinking ahead to reforestation efforts, with plans to disperse thousands of “seed bombs” in the style of Japanese agriculturalist Masanobu Fukuoka, filled with the seeds of native trees and wildflowers. Fruit and nut trees will be planted this autumn which, in a few years’ time, will replenish the orchards so many families depend on for food.

If you’d like to donate to one of the international NGOs working here in Argentina, the Tompkins Conservation does great work in ecological restoration throughout Patagonia, and Fundacion Vida Silvestre also works in local conservation. Patagonia is a natural wonderland filled with residents who routinely welcome visitors with open arms, yerba mate, and a traditional asado whenever they get the chance. I only hope that we can spread awareness, support, and appreciation for the stewards of this supremely beautiful land.

Cathy Brown splits her time between travelling the globe writing for Lonely Planet and CNN, working with Indigenous rights in the Brazilian Amazon, and hanging out at home in her garden and hosting permaculture and medicinal plant retreats. 

For more information on how you can help the Patagonian community recover from these devastating wildfires, write to [email protected] or send her a message through Instagram.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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