Travel

Spend the Night in This Art-Filled Hotel Surrounded By Feminists

There's a Ruth Bader Ginsburg portrait made of tampons-need we say more?

Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena
Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena
Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena

There’s a portrait of Ruth Bader Ginsburg hanging in the lobby of the Hotel Zena in Washington DC. It’s big: over thirteen feet tall, and from a distance appears textured, like it could be knitted or quilted. But upon closer inspection the mural’s menstrual nature becomes clear: it’s made of tampons.

20,000 of them, in fact-each organic and hand-painted to create a remarkably detailed likeness of the late Supreme Court Justice, complete with bright red lips and her signature lace collar. From her position near the hotel bar, it may look like she’s judging your drink of choice, which, unless it’s fancy wine, she probably is.

Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena
Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena
Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena

Since its recent downtown opening in October 2020, the Hotel Zena has zealously and colourfully branded itself with women’s empowerment-including offering a cocktail called the Empowermint-with the earnest aim of shining a light on trailblazers both famous and lesser-known. It’s not the first hotel to do so: the Woodlark in Portland, Oregon, for example, named its bar after local suffragist and newspaper editor Abigail Scott Duniway, while the Hotel Figueroa in downtown Los Angeles, originally a women’s-only hostel, features an art gallery in the lobby paying homage to its feminist roots.

But Hotel Zena may be the most overt of all the lady hotels, using art for playful provocation with over 60 pieces created specifically for the hotel by a cadre of international artists. Art is everywhere you look, commenting on everything from the sewing circle, to the body in all its forms, to the use of fashion to instigate change.

Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena
Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena
Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena

An exterior mural features a pair of oversized Warrior Guardians. In the lobby, an abstract serpent sculpture hangs from the ceiling, and the transparent reception desk is filled with colourful upcycled high heels. A collage of Congresswoman Shirley Chisholm and a painting of Sampat Pal Devi, the leader of an all-woman vigilante force in India, keep RBG company in the portrait gallery. And shimmering on the wall of the hotel’s bar and lounge is a 20-foot sequined “gown” made of 12,000 buttons collected from generations of marches and protests supporting the good fight.

Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena
Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena
Photo courtesy of Hotel Zena

The theme extends beyond what’s hanging on the walls. For Women’s History Month, Hotel Zena has curated a mix of remote and in-person events, including a free virtual reading from Roxane Gay from her book of essays Bad Feminist on March 12, and an online screening and discussion with filmmaker Oge Egbuonu about her documentary (In)Visible Portraits on March 17, also free. If you happen to be in the area, stop by the hotel for tours, painting events, and crystal healing on their forthcoming Hedy’s rooftop.

And while you’re there, be sure to rack up a game on the pink pool table under the interactive LightZilla wall (it’s like a Lite Brite, but giant). Swing by the gym to learn some moves from the instructive self defense black light panels, glowing under a neon sign that instructs “Wake up, Kick Ass, Be Nice, Repeat.”

And don’t forget to try the Empowermint.

Vanita Salisbury is Thrillist’s Senior Travel Writer. She would not turn down an Empowermint. 

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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