Travel

This One-of-a-Kind Bookstore Is Hidden in the Forest of Big Sur

Catch some music, film, and art while retracing the footsteps of writers of California's past.

Photo by Nick Hilden
Photo by Nick Hilden
Photo by Nick Hilden

I’m driving down the 101 two-and-a-half hours south of San Francisco, through the farmlands of Salinas, past the dunes of Monterey, and skirting a cliff that provides a stunning view of the Pacific-which is lucky, because this stretch of coast is often hidden by mysterious mists. I pass over a series of beautifully arching bridges before the road carries me into a forest, shadowed by giant redwoods.

Here is where the Big Sur region begins: a handful of B&Bs, restaurants, and campgrounds that you’ll miss if you blink. The Lilliputian town of Big Sur is all about its bohemian, off-the-beaten-track atmosphere-a vibe that peaks when you reach a particular wooden house surrounded by trees in a shady ravine just south of town.

Books hang from the roof eaves. They’re tacked to the walls, laid out on tables on the wrap-around deck, and even dangling from the branches of a tree growing in the middle of the porch. This is the Henry Miller Library. Simply put, it is a mecca for book nerds.

Flickr/Kent Kanouse
Flickr/Kent Kanouse
Flickr/Kent Kanouse

American author Henry Miller once lived in this house for several years in the late 1940s. Today it functions mainly as a bookstore, situated in the old living room. The collection of course includes everything by Miller and most of the works of Anais Nin (with whom Miller and his wife had a complicated and steamy relationship). You’ll also find books by Ta-Nehisi Coates, Virginia Wolfe, Haruki Murakami, Ernest Hemingway, Alan Ginsberg, Emily Dickenson, James Baldwin, and many, many others.

The library also acts as a nonprofit to support artists of all walks, providing a workshop and performance space with regular events. There are short film screenings, story competitions, author readings, live music shows, and even the occasional outdoor dinner. The path leading to the bookstore (lined with a smattering of art) brings you past a stage that has hosted the likes of the Red Hot Chili Peppers, the Flaming Lips, Philip Glass, Sharon Van Etten, Yo La Tengo, the Pixies, and Patti Smith.

Photo by Nick Hilden
Photo by Nick Hilden
Photo by Nick Hilden

Passing through a tall wooden fence, the first thing you’ll likely notice is a mailbox bearing the name “Emile White.” He was one of Miller’s best friends and neighbors-as is detailed in Miller’s delightful book Big Sur and the Oranges of Hieronymus Bosch (which, by the way, is a fantastic audiobook to listen to during the drive into town). White went on to preserve the house after the writer’s deathToday the house is covered with colorful chalk scrawlings, and visitors are invited to add to the ever-evolving mural.Though the library makes for a gorgeous day trip out of San Francisco, the town of Big Sur tempts visitors to stay the night in one of its rustic accommodations. Glen Oaks has hip, vintage-style cabins and rooms where you can feel transported to a plot from another era. Or indulge in adult versions of a Peter-Pan-like fort in the elegant treehouses at The Post Ranch Inn. If you want to go all-bohemian, Alila Ventana really leans into la vie boheme with a clothing-optional pool.

Photo by Nick Hilden
Photo by Nick Hilden
Photo by Nick Hilden

For another kind of escape from reality, there are also several quality campgrounds, arguably the standout being Fernwood, which offers camping, glamping, cabins, a bar and grill, and occasionally live music from some pretty big-name acts.

As part of your literary pilgrimage you should probably eat at Nepenthe, an old haunt of Miller’s that offers California fare and some high-altitude views. Though you could also go for pub food at the Big Sur Taphouse or a solid sandwich at the Big Sur Deli, which also has a general store with local syrup, hot sauce, and jerky.

Manuela Durson/Shutterstock
Manuela Durson/Shutterstock
Manuela Durson/Shutterstock

But there’s one more literary reference waiting in these oceanside peaks. Nearby Salinas was the hometown of author John Steinbeck. There you can visit his grave at the Garden of Memories Memorial Park. In Salinas, you’ll also find the National Steinbeck Center, which provides a deep dive into the great author’s books and films.

Further south in Monterey is Cannery Row, which was the setting for several of Steinbeck’s greatest works. While the Cannery Row of his day was a somewhat sordid, down-and-out place, today its streets are lined with a series of shops and restaurants, some of which extend onto a stilted dock jetting out into the sea.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTwitterPinterestYouTubeTikTok, and Snapchat.

Nick Hilden is a travel, fitness, arts, and fiction writer whose work has appeared in the Los Angeles Times, Men’s Health, the Daily Beast, Vice, Greatist, and more. You can follow his weird adventures via Instagram or Twitter.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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