Travel

Former National Parks and Monuments You Can Still (And Should) Visit

No fancy title? No problem.

Matt Mawson/Moment/Getty Images
Matt Mawson/Moment/Getty Images
Matt Mawson/Moment/Getty Images

The National Parks Service currently operates a whopping 423 units, but, confusingly, only 63 of those sites have gone through the rigorous process to become a national park. It could have been a lot more. 

Whether due to low visitation, lack of funding, or inaccessibility, some national park units are abandoned by the NPS, often before they have a chance to really strut their stuff. Some are transferred to the state park systems. Others, as in the strange case of Fossil Cycad National Monument, are stripped of their worth by human scavengers and relegated to cows for grazing. One-the dilapidated fort and former Civil War prison Castle Pinckney-even floats in the Charleston harbor, longing for the day it can see visitors again. 

But others are still vital landscapes. Just because they don’t have the fancy designation of national park doesn’t mean they’re not worth your time. In fact, they may even be worthier. 331 million people visit national parks every year. These guys are considerably less crowded, and sometimes virtually empty. In their cases, especially now, the demotion from national park or monument is a benefit for those who prefer to explore without Disneyland-esque crowds.

Peter Unger/Stone/Getty Images
Peter Unger/Stone/Getty Images
Peter Unger/Stone/Getty Images

Papago Saguaro National Monument

Arizona 
Years in the NPS: 1914-1930
Phoenix-adjacent Papago Saguaro had a lot going for it when it was designated as a national monument in 1914: stunning sandstone buttes as high as 1,700 feet, archeological sites scrawled with petroglyphs, and an extremely fun-to-say name. The saguaro cacti-dotted desert territory is also home to the iconic “Hole in the Rock,” which was used by prehistoric Native Americans to monitor the solar cycle and today looks out over the Phoenix skyline. 

Then humans folly reared its head: petroglyphs were swiped and saguaros were removed for the vandals’ personal landscaping projects. Funding was woefully inadequate, which led to egregious neglect. By 1930, Arizona was fed up and asked for the land back, and Papago Saguaro became the first national monument to be “abolished” by Congressional act. It’s now part of Papago Park, a state-run recreation complex that’s home to a desert botanical garden and the Phoenix Zoo.

Michael Deemer/Shutterstock
Michael Deemer/Shutterstock
Michael Deemer/Shutterstock

Mackinac National Park 

Michigan
Years in the NPS: 1875-1895
Situated on an island where Lakes Huron and Michigan converge to separate the state’s upper and lower peninsulas, Mackinac was America’s second national park, right after Yellowstone. Bordered by Fort Mackinac, visitors came to take in geologic wonders like the majestic water-adjacent Arch Rock and the 75-foot high limestone stack known as Sugar Loaf. Originally, the War Department ran the park, with federal troops acting as park rangers. But after the fort was decommissioned, the park was transferred to the State of Michigan, which designated it as the first state park. 

Today, Mackinac Island is one of Michigan’s most popular tourist destinations, complete with inns, bars, restaurants, and the crown-jewel Grand Hotel. A visit is lovely, especially if you arrive early in the day by boat or ferry: no motorized vehicles are allowed, replaced instead with bikes and horse-drawn carriages, so if you beat the crowds (good luck), it could be your own private getaway. And for the sweet-tooth, Mackinac is particularly known for its fudge, with no less than 14 shops downtown.

Photo courtesy of North Dakota Tourism
Photo courtesy of North Dakota Tourism
Photo courtesy of North Dakota Tourism

Sullys Hill National Park

North Dakota
Years in the NPS: 1904-1931
Sullys Hill was one of five national parks added to the system by Theodore Roosevelt, but it’s a bit of a mystery why, unless it was just his inexplicably intense love for North Dakota. Sure, the 780 acres were dense with wildlife-wood ducks, geese, mallards and more-but the property was tiny, remote, and seldom visited. In 1931 it was passed on to the National Wildlife Refuge System and designated as a big-game preserve and breeding ground for wildlife with the reintroduction of bison, elk, and white-tailed deer.

The name was always a point of contention: Alfred Sully was an Army general in the 1800s who made his name by massacring hundreds of indigenous Americans. In 2019 the park-now at 1,674 acres-was renamed through an act of Congress to its traditional Dakota name of White Horse Hill, a draw for 70,000 wildlife enthusiasts annually. 

Alla Gill/Shutterstock
Alla Gill/Shutterstock
Alla Gill/Shutterstock

Wheeler National Monument 

Colorado 
Years in the NPS: 1933-1950
President Roosevelt proclaimed southern Colorado’s otherworldly outcroppings a national monument in 1908, and it quickly became a tourist attraction: though it was just 40 feet shy of 12,000 feet in the La Garita Wilderness, it was no big deal for a horse and buggy to take two days to get there. Then came the speedy automobiles-and with them, roads-but the high altitude and eroded volcanic tuff proved too precarious an area to construct proper access, and motorists chose instead to visit places they could actually motor. 

When the NPS was reorganized in 1933, Wheeler was enveloped, but there was no plan or money to develop the monument and was thus neglected. In 1950 Congress abolished the Wheeler National Monument and returned the property to the U.S. Forest Service, which now manages it as Wheeler Geologic Area, part of the Rio Grande National Forest, a draw for the 4×4 set and those who don’t mind grueling 14-mile round-trip hikes.

Ronnie Chua/Shutterstock
Ronnie Chua/Shutterstock
Ronnie Chua/Shutterstock

Lewis and Clark Cavern National Monument

Montana
Years in the NPS: 1908-1937
The famed explorers never actually set foot in this wonderland of limestone stalactites and stalagmites: it’s so named because it overlooks the trail that the Corps of Discovery followed along the Jefferson River. In 1908, Taft declared it the 15th national monument, but at 1,300 feet above the river it was a beast to get to-about a 45 minute climb to an unlit cave, with no rangers to serve as guides.

The cave was made safer throughout the 1930s but by then it was too late: the lack of adequate funding made it difficult to properly staff and maintain, and visitors slowed down to a trickle. In 1935 Montana governor Frank Cooney requested that the federal government turn the cave over to Montana for development as their first state park, today encompassing 3,000 acres. Guided tours of the caverns are offered, and though there’s no 45-minute climb, visitors will still need to hop up about 600 steps.

Shoshone Cavern National Monument

Wyoming
Years in the NPS: 1909-1954
With a remote entrance at an elevation of 6,300 feet-about 2,200 feet above the road- Shoshone Cavern was accidentally discovered by a hunting guide Ned Frost and his dog, thanks to an elusive bobcat who ducked into its darkness. After its existence became known the exploration team included no less than Buffalo Bill (Cody, not that other one), and the cavern became Wyoming’s second monument. 

During its time in the NPS it received few visitors, thanks in great part to the steep climb to the entrance and was eventually deemed too expensive to develop. The site was then bequeathed to the city of Cody in 1951 to manage, deleted from the National Parks System in 1954, and later renamed Spirit Mountain Caverns. Today it’s designated by a rusted brown sign and a metal gate across the opening. Experienced spelunkers can still enter with a key, obtained through the Bureau of Land Management for $20.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTwitterPinterestYouTubeTikTok, and Snapchat!

Vanita Salisbury is Thrillist’s Senior Travel Writer. She’s writing a movie about former national parks just for Nicolas Cage.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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