Travel

America's Original Mystery Monolith Towers Above the West

The country's first national monument is steeped in the uncertain.

Lillah Grinnell / EyeEm / getty images
Lillah Grinnell / EyeEm / getty images
Lillah Grinnell / EyeEm / getty images

There is nowhere on Earth like it: An 867-foot plume of cooled magma frozen in time, standing sentinel in Wyoming’s ranch country. From afar, its symmetrical rows of 10-foot-wide columns appear as if a giant bear clawed up its sides, like some sort of celestial scratching post. Simply looking at it requires an admission of bewilderment.

Devils Tower is the nation’s first national monument, designated with the flick of a pen by Teddy Roosevelt in 1906. Of course, its human history goes back thousands of years before that: This is sacred ground to some two-dozen Northern Plains tribes, including the Lakota, Shoshone, and Arapahoe. How it got here, we’re not exactly sure. What’s its future? Well, that’s not entirely concrete, either.

Laura Hedien / moment / getty images
Laura Hedien / moment / getty images
Laura Hedien / moment / getty images

50+ million years ago during the Laramide orogeny-a mountain-building event-parts of the U.S. were being pushed skyward, from California all the way to the Black Hills. Devils Tower is part of that wild tectonic story, a magma plume that boiled its way through sedimentary rock one or two miles down, but never made it to the surface on its own.  

So far, that geologic origin story isn’t all that special. 

“It’s kind of a small fry for some cooled magma bodies,” explains Dr. Erik Klemetti, associate professor at Denison University. “Think about all the granite in the Sierra Nevada in California,” like Yosemite’s Half Dome, which underwent a similar process of uplift and erosion. 

But even though Devils Tower isn’t super-sized, it’s still in a class of its own: The tower’s columns are the largest examples of columnar jointing on Earth.

Diana Robinson Photography / moment / getty images
Diana Robinson Photography / moment / getty images
Diana Robinson Photography / moment / getty images

For columnar jointing to occur in the first place, conditions have to be just right. That means “slow, gradual, monotonous cooling like you would get in a magma body that is miles beneath the land surface,” explains Klemetti. “The crust is hundreds of degrees cooler, but because rock is such a good insulator, it can take tens of thousands of years to cool fully.” 

As to the columns’ unparalleled size-those at California’s Devils Postpile National Monument, for example, average two feet to the tower’s 10-those exact details remain unknown.

To the outside eye, the tower’s columns look perfectly carved by the gods. But get closer and you’ll notice a more complicated story. 

“It’s not as uniform as it may look,” writes Nick Myers, the monument’s chief of interpretation. “Individually, the columns are similar in size, but overall the tower itself is very diverse-especially the top.” The individual columns, he points out, can be five-, six-, or even seven-sided. 
 
But beyond those basics, we don’t precisely know the tower’s origins-some even say it’s the neck of an extinct volcano.
 
“We have a very, very good idea as to what happened here,” adds Myers, “but we may never know definitively.”

Kathryn Froilan / moment / getty images
Kathryn Froilan / moment / getty images
Kathryn Froilan / moment / getty images

Local Indigenous tribes, of course, have their own explanations. The oral history of the Crow weaves a far more sudden tale: Two girls were being pursued by a gigantic, hungry bear. In answer to their desperate prayers, the Great Spirit shot the ground underneath them up into the sky and the girls out of reach. The bear climbed the tower in pursuit-scratching out the columns-but couldn’t make it to the top. 
 
The sacred narratives of the Cheyenne, Lakota, and Kiowa are similar, and sun dances, sweat lodges, and prayer offerings are regular occurrences on the site to this day. If you see prayer cloths or other religious artifacts at the park, do not disturb them. They are not yours.
 
Which brings up a necessary point: This is sacred Indigenous land, commonly referred to as Bear Lodge. Chief Arvol Looking Horse, a spiritual leader of the Lakota, spearheaded a 2014 request to the U.S. Board on Geographic Names to get the tower renamed as such. 
 
“The [current] name is offensive,” the proposal states, “because it equates cultural and faith traditions practiced at this site to ‘devil worship,’ in essence equating Indigenous people to ‘devils.'”Unlike South Dakota’s Black Elk Peak or Alaska’s Denali, the request hasn’t progressed too far yet-but it did spur on Sen. Mike Enzi (WY) and Rep. Liz Cheney (WY-At Large) to introduce legislation protecting the name in early 2019. Per USBGN policies, any proposed name change won’t be considered until at least 90 days after the beginning of the next session of Congress, or January 3, 2021. 
 
That said, the NPS works “very closely with all affiliated and associated tribes at Devils Tower,” according to Myers, and space for Indigenous tradition is a constant conversation. Since 1995, there’s been a voluntary ban on climbing the tower-there are 100+ routes-during the month of June, when Indigenous ceremonies are most numerous. Many routes also close in April to protect nesting prairie and peregrine falcons.
 
Regardless of how this igneous giant came to be, what it’s called, or if and when you should climb it, a few things remain clear: Respect this sacred site, its mysteries, its traditions, its flora and fauna-and look out for gigantic bears.

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Jacqueline Kehoe is a writer, photographer, and geology geek. See her work on Instagram at @j.kehoe.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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