Travel

Cleveland’s Occult Museum Spills the Tea Leaves on Occult History

Take a photo tour of the Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick, where crystal balls, black mirrors, and glowing robes honor the father of modern witchcraft.

Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick

“When you think of witches, you think of nebulous forms,” says Steven Intermill, director of the Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick in Cleveland, Ohio. “But you come here, you see things that were used by actual witches, and it sparks in your head, ‘These are people, too.'”

Founded by Raymond Buckland, the man famous for bringing witchcraft to the US in the ‘60s, Cleveland’s premier witchcraft museum is a single-story sanctuary, its walls and display cases cluttered with a hodgepodge of occult-related objects and ephemera. Inside, visitors can peruse everything from tasseomancy teacups and crystal balls to archival records of the Salem witch trials and the eponymous founder’s own sacred possessions.

Buckland was the first person in the United States to openly admit to practicing Wicca, the pagan, earth-centered religion whose followers are referred to as “witches.” He’s also credited with forming America’s first-ever coven, headquartering the like-minded group in Islip, Long Island.

As Intermill explains, the Wiccan leader began his career as a copywriter, but soon “felt there was something spiritual in nature that was lacking.” This led him to the work of Dr. Gerald Gardner, the so-called Father of Witchcraft, who ran a museum of magic on the Isle of Man.

Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick

Buckland and his wife, Rosemary-whose coven names were Robat and Rowan, respectively-made a pilgrimage to the self-governing British Crown Dependency, where the storied Wiccan subsequently took the couple under his wing. Upon returning to the States, Buckland followed in his mentor’s footsteps by deciding to exhibit his own collection of relics via an appointment-only operation in his Long Island basement.

While working a day job for British Airways, the globetrotting Buckland was able to amass artifacts from all over the world. Soon, his little museum was later the subject of a 1972 documentary, Occult: X Factor Or FRAUD, and newspapers like The New York Times began to take notice. The Metropolitan Museum of Art even requested to feature some of Buckland’s Outsider art pieces in a prominent exhibit.

The Buckland Museum was the first of its kind in the US to take an anthropological approach to showcasing the supernatural. At first, the museum was a traveling show, moving between New Hampshire, Virginia, and New Orleans, where it was ultimately placed under the care of Wiccan priestess Velvet Rieth, who was instrumental in preserving Buckland’s pride and joy. As Rieth’s health began to deteriorate in 2015, Intermill’s partner at the museum, Toni Rotonda, retrieved the items and brought them to the Temple of Sacrifice, a coven Buckland founded in Columbus, Ohio.

Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick

Intermill, who grew up poring over books about UFOs and Bigfoot, had always been drawn to the occult. “I was working at another tourist destination here in Cleveland, and one day I was thinking to myself, I like witchcraft more,” Intermill says.”I emailed Ray [Buckland],he put me in touch with Toni, we teamed up, and the rest is history.”

Buckland, who passed away in 2017, authored The Complete Book of Witchcraft, a comprehensive and well-respected guide to initiating covens. “He was very generous,” Intermill says of the founder. “He was generous with his time. He was generous with his things. He was generous with his heart.”

Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick

Today, Intermill leads small group tours through the museum’s magical aisles, telling the story of Buckland, his relationship with Dr. Gardner, and the museum’s development. Because the collection is simply too large, Intermill rotates display items into specific exhibits. Currently on view is a show exploring the tradition of reading tea leaves, featuring objects on loan from the Museum of Tasseomancy in Hamilton, Ontario.

Intermill notes that the museum welcomes visitors from all walks of life, perhaps the most famous being Lil Bub, the feline Instagram superstar born with a perpetually stuck-out tongue. “Everybody’s cool, everybody’s open-minded,” he says. “They tend to be people that have a creative spark to them-there’s kind of a deflector field in front of the museum that keeps the jerks away.”

The museum director was kind enough to share a few of his favorite standouts from the permanent collection with Thrillist, along with detailed explanations in his own words. (But, of course, in order to truly experience the mystical powers emanating from this wonderland, you’ve really gotta make your way out to Cleveland and see for yourself.)

Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick

Buckland’s illuminated robe

“The first thing visitors see when they walk in is our founder Ray Buckland’s illuminated ritual robe in a place of authority. He made it himself, it’s very impressive. He was very interested in the idea of making one’s own tool. And it’s purple, of course-a sign of spirit.”
 

Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick

Sybil Leek’s crystal ball

“Leeks was an extraordinarily famous fortune-teller, astrologer, and witch back in the 1960s-a real popularizer of the occult in America. And she was friends with our founder, Ray. This piece is luminescent-when you walk in, it’s already glowing.”

Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick

Original manuscript of Buckland’s Complete Book of Witchcraft

“One of my favorite pieces to share is the original handwritten manuscript of Buckland’s Complete Book of Witchcraft-quite legendary in the cult scene. A lot of people, their eyes light up, and they say, ‘Is that Bucky’s big blue book of witchcraft?’

It’s often people’s starter book on the craft, because it essentially contains the seeds for the popularization of witchcraft in the 1980s. It’s surprising-everything on the page [here] is in the book. It shows Ray’s focus, how he knew exactly what he wanted to express.”

Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick

Antique mandrake root

“Lots of people know mandrakes from pop culture-Harry Potter, Pan’s Labyrinth-and they’re often surprised to see it’s the real deal. There are a lot of legends about the mandrake-most famously, that they scream when you pull them out of the ground. This is about 200 years old and carved to look like a woman carrying children, so it’s what we refer to as a fertility totem.”

Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick

Gerald Gardner’s personal items

“We have some personal items that belonged to the great Witch Father Dr. Gerald Gardner, the founder of the modern witchcraft movement. They were gifted to Ray by Monique Wilson: his pipe, his wallets, and his attache case. Wilson was one of Gardner’s top witches back in the day, and initiated Ray to the craft. It’s really cool.”

Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick
Photo courtesy of Buckland Museum of Witchcraft & Magick

Black mirrors

“We have a variety of scrying mirrors on display, the black mirrors people stare into to see fortunes, future and past-you know, ‘Mirror, mirror on the wall.’ We also have Ray’s personal one. People love staring into it for long periods of time.”Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Jessica Sulima is a staff writer on the Travel team at Thrillist. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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