Travel

Big Sky Is Montana's Ultimate All-Season Mountain Escape

But it's especially magical in the winter.

Photo by Jon Resnick, courtesy of Big Sky Resort
Photo by Jon Resnick, courtesy of Big Sky Resort
Photo by Jon Resnick, courtesy of Big Sky Resort

What is it about mountains that capture our imagination? For me, it goes beyond aesthetic appeal. They exist as punctuation; emphatic reminders of the awesome forces that shape our earth over eons. A single snapshot millions of years in the making. They wink at me, knowingly, from the horizon’s edge.

How they call to you is a surprisingly personal affair. But when you’re in Western Montana, it’s a conversation you won’t be able to ignore. And if you’re in Big Sky, you won’t want it to end.

So far as aptly-named towns go, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a rival (Boring, Oregon maybe?). The landscape of Big Sky remains relentlessly on-brand. Turn west off of US-191 and a wide alpine basin unfurls before you. The “Meadow” is a verdant valley bookended by sloping ridges on opposing sides. Your sights, however, will be drawn directly ahead to the triangulated mass of Lone Peak dominating the encroaching panorama. This is one of those dictionary-illustration-type deals of what you’d find when seeking a definition for “mountain.”

Lone Mountain Ranch
Lone Mountain Ranch
Lone Mountain Ranch

You’ll soon discover that most things in this resort town of less than 2,400 residents are pretty straightforward, allowing the experiences themselves. The golf course is called Big Sky Golf Course. It was designed by golfing legend Arnold Palmer and sits at an average elevation of 6,500 feet-which means you’re afforded not just stunning views but a performance-enhancing boost to your long game.

Just up the road is Lone Mountain Ranch. As advertised, it’s… a ranch overlooking Lone Mountain. It’s also one of the most undeniably authentic adventure lodges in the country, featuring a slew of standalone cabins, some of which are holdovers from the original homesteaders that settled this region at the turn of the 20th Century.

Rustic, western-themed exteriors belie the modern trappings of luxury that exist within: heated bathroom floors, high thread-count linens, a smartphone-activated concierge service. Nestled alongside North Fork Creek, the destination draws fly-fishers and mountain-bikers in the spring and summer, giving way to sleigh-riding and nordic skiing once the snow falls.

“Big Sky appeals to so many different types of travelers,” notes Paul Makarechian , owner of Lone Mountain Ranch. “It’s a place for families, a place for the adventurous, and a place for nostalgic romantics hoping to reconnect with western traditions of a bygone era.”

Photo by Patrick Conroy, courtesy of Big Sky Resort
Photo by Patrick Conroy, courtesy of Big Sky Resort
Photo by Patrick Conroy, courtesy of Big Sky Resort

It’s also, of course, a great place for skiers. Big Sky and its sister resort, Moonlight Basin, can be accessed by a single lift ticket. Combined they form one of the largest terrain-5,750 acres-in all of North American wintersport. Between the high season from beginning of December through the middle of April, the mountains can record as much as 300 inches of snowfall. Yet they remain relatively untrodden compared to their more crowded counterparts in Colorado and California-strict COVID precautions are in place, but social distance has always been a given, and a draw, here.

“Even on busy days you’ll never wait more than 10 minutes in a lift line and the price is way more reasonable than Vail,” according to Matt Morley, a professional pilot who went to college in nearby Bozeman. Home to the region’s largest airport, it’s the gateway for most visitors to Big Sky Country. “Just the drive to get there-winding your way down Gallatin Canyon for an hour, spotting bighorn sheep licking salt off the side of the road. It’s a spectacular scenic journey you won’t soon forget.”

And because it takes a little added effort to get here, it tends to attract a more intrepid set of travelers. Namely, the sort that is eager to escape crowds.

“For the outdoor enthusiast seeking adventure on a daily basis and a slower pace of life there is no place better than Big Sky,” says Mike Donaldson, owner of Gallatin River Guides. Since 1984, his company has been connecting tourists with some of the best fly-fishing on the planet. So renowned is the region for its wild trout rivers, in fact, that it even served as backdrop for a Brad Pitt movie on the very subject.

Rob Crandall/Shutterstock
Rob Crandall/Shutterstock
Rob Crandall/Shutterstock

Big Sky remains no stranger to high-profile personalities thanks to an elite private development known as the Yellowstone Club. But despite having the likes of Bill Gates, Ben Affleck, and Tom Brady milling about, this town is remarkably low-key and refreshingly unassuming.

“We have a phenomenal community of folks that enjoy living here and tend to care about each other,” adds Donaldson. “Big Sky is a great place to slow down and enjoy life with family and friends. It is a small town with great weather and beautiful views in every direction. It is a no brainer in my opinion.”

And it’s a surprisingly reliable destination for good food, too-spanning a range of styles and price points. At the base of the slope, riders enjoy an innovative arrangement of frankfurters at Yeti Dogs. Scissorbills Saloon is another local standby, offering accessible apres-ski, including oversized nachos and Philly cheesesteaks to pair alongside local microbrews.

Horn and Cantle
Horn and Cantle
Horn and Cantle

On the higher-end the Montana Dinner Yurt is a candlelit BYOB affair reached only by snowcat or sled. It showcases a chef-inspired, protein-driven menu over three hearty courses. Back down at the Lone Mountain Ranch, Horn & Cantle goes the way of elevated gastropub, plating bison short ribs and pickle-brined fried chicken against barrel-aged cocktails and an international assortment of wines.

Makarechian also recommends arriving with a thirst for history, one which you can slake at the neighboring Crail Ranch Homestead Museum. “Embrace the spirit of the Old West, and you’ll find ample respect for the courageous pioneers who settled this part of the world.”

Over a hundred years later, it awaits discovery by a whole new generation of nomads. Though some are happy to let them take their time in the pursuit. “Please don’t tell people about how awesome it is,” begs Morley. “Keep it a secret!”

Brad Japhe is a freelance journalist with a wicked case of the get-up-and-gos. He enjoys his whisky neat and his IPA hazy. He’s usually found at the junction of food, booze, and travel. Follow him @Journeys_with_Japhe.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

Get the latest from Thrillist Australia delivered straight to your inbox, subscribe here.

Related

Our Best Stories, Delivered Daily
The best decision you'll make all day.