Travel

Gorgeous Small Towns in Italy to Avoid the Crowds

All roads lead away from Rome.

Michael Fischer/500px Prime/Getty Images
Michael Fischer/500px Prime/Getty Images
Michael Fischer/500px Prime/Getty Images

It may not be your first thought, but Italy is actually an excellent destination to escape crowds-if you know where to look. The country has thousands of rural villages spread across the peninsula, many of them looking like gorgeous ruins or castles perched atop hills, where time seems to pass more slowly and peacefully.

After having been one of the hardest-hit countries by Covid-19, Italy is now one of the most vaccinated countries in Europe. Incoming tourists must show proof of vaccination and a negative antigen test taken 48 hours before your flight in order to get a green pass to enter the country. And once you’re there, a stay in the gorgeous countryside-often easily accessible from Rome-helps avoid the masses.

Whether you’re hoping to go to Europe at some point this year or just want to start shaping up some dream plans, Italy’s under-the-radar villages have a lot going for them over the usual cities and popular destinations. In these bucolic villages, you can zipline from one town peak to the next town over, forage for mushrooms, hike through pagan sacrifice sites, or hear ghost stories about the many who’ve passed through these lands. You can also find regional delicacies made by locals such as handmade pasta, pungent sheep cheeses, and cured prosciutto.

Here are the best small towns in Italy, where some of the biggest crowds you’ll come across are flocks of sheep.

Vittorio Fortunato/EyeEm/Getty Images
Vittorio Fortunato/EyeEm/Getty Images
Vittorio Fortunato/EyeEm/Getty Images

Castel di Tora

Dating back to medieval times, Castel di Tora is perched on a hilltop overlooking lake Tora in the Latium region, close to Rome. A small bridge leads to the ancient town, where a bunch of ragged stone dwellings climb up a precipice to an old tower, their balconies jutting out over the lake. The road to Castel di Tora cuts through deep forests, so don’t be shocked if the biggest crowds you encounter are made of cows and sheep. The village has winding, narrow cobblestone alleys that lead to a little piazza, where you can sit at a bar and soak in the sunshine while sipping an aperitivo. Fresh fish is served at taverns with open patios facing the lake. Take advantage of that lake by fishing for giant, 2-meter-long trouts, going for a swim, or lounging on a boat along the shores.

Shutterstock/Antonio Arico
Shutterstock/Antonio Arico
Shutterstock/Antonio Arico

Staiti

As the smallest village in Calabria, the town of Staiti is located inside the hilly Aspromonte national park and was once inhabited by outlaws. Founded by ancient Greek-Byzantine sailors and monks, locals still speak a Greek-sounding dialect and street names look very different from the rest of Italy. The village is an open-air museum: narrow alleys lead to the ruins of a temple dedicated to sea gods, Byzantine rock chapels, and human-shaped stone bas-reliefs on walls and buildings. The old architecture is juxtaposed to modern street art, and phrases of poems are written on painted house doors. Staiti’s wonderful trekking trails, leading to ghost hamlets and abandoned fortresses, lure hikers from across the world. While there, don’t forget to taste the delicious homemade maccheroni pasta with goat sauce ragù.

Shutterstock/leoks
Shutterstock/leoks
Shutterstock/leoks

Roccascalegna

Located in Abruzzo, the town of Roccascalegna is definitely off the beaten track-here you’ll mainly be rubbing shoulders with cats, hens, and shepherd dogs. The village bakery is a must-stop for giant biscuits and pane porchettato, which are pork roast sandwiches. The top highlight in Roccascalegna, though, is the overhanging fortress, dubbed the “Castle in Sky.” Italy may have thousands of fortresses, but this one will have you questioning the law of gravity: suspended over a chasm, it resembles a spacecraft ready to take off. Prepare to flex some muscles going up the crooked mountain trail, all the way to the upper turret, which offers a stunning panorama of the snowy Apennine hills. Get goose bumps on a guided tour where you’ll hear about the past tortures inflicted in the underground dungeons and the ghost story of a headless warrior said to haunt the fortress.

Shutterstock/Fabio Boccuzzi
Shutterstock/Fabio Boccuzzi
Shutterstock/Fabio Boccuzzi

Pietrapertosa

Pietrapertosa is in Italy’s deep south, but has northern-looking alpine scenery. The village sits between the huge pointed crags of the Lucanian Dolomites mountain range in Basilicata. Shards of weird-shaped rocks jut out from street corners, behind houses, and along roads. The town builders drilled all the way through the peak, including through a massive boulder that you go through in order to enter the town. Many residences are carved directly into the mountain, creating a natural wind shield for the inhabitants. There’s also an ancient Arab district from medieval times with dark sandstone cottages, and each summer a festival features Arab food and dancing. If you want an adrenaline rush, you could admire the aerial view via Angel Flight, where you’re strapped into a metal harness attached to a steel cable running from Pietrapertosa’s highest peak to that of the nearby village of Castelmezzano.

Shutterstock/Giambattista Lazazzera
Shutterstock/Giambattista Lazazzera
Shutterstock/Giambattista Lazazzera

Sepino

If you’re an Indiana-Jones-style, explore-an-ancient-world kind of freak, this one’s for you. Dubbed “Little Pompeii,” Sepino is located on the ragged mountains of Molise, Italy’s most remote region, and has ancient ruins that rival those of Rome. The village was founded by the fiery Samnite tribes, who were wiped-out by ancient Romans. Inside a 12-hectares walled city, colorful dwellings sit on the ashes of the burnt Samnite settlement, including 30 towers, four monumental doors, a basilica, and numerous fountains, markets, artisan shops, and thermal baths. Statues of imprisoned warriors greet visitors at the entrance. Indulge in yummy cold cuts, such as ventricina salami stuffed with chili peppers and torcinelli sausages filled with sheep liver.

Shutterstock/Claudio Giovanni Colombo
Shutterstock/Claudio Giovanni Colombo
Shutterstock/Claudio Giovanni Colombo

Faleria

Perched on a tufted hilltop rising out of a green canyon near the city of Viterbo, Faleria has a dreamy, time-stands-still vibe. Located within a natural park carved out by a pristine river, lush vegetation creeps over the dwellings. The hamlet, founded by the primitive Falisci tribes-who also had to eventually bend their knee to Imperial Rome-is a labyrinth of moss-covered cobbled alleys leading to tunnels and wall openings overlooking the chasm. Locals live in grotto dwellings with panoramic balconies. Faleria is divided in two parts: the inhabited area and the spooky abandoned ghost district, just behind the majestic fortress, which is the top attraction. Trekking routes departing from the village wind through a wilderness where pagan sacrifices were once performed.

Shutterstock/mdlart
Shutterstock/mdlart
Shutterstock/mdlart

Calvi dell’Umbria

Forget the usual, overcrowded Perugia and Todi. This village is one of Umbria’s best-kept secrets, sitting on a hill crest where untainted nature rules. One single, narrow road cuts through brilliant green-and-brown meadows, chestnut forests, and tiny abandoned hamlets, connecting Calvi to an ancient Roman road called Via Flaminia, dotted with archeological wonders along the way. There’s almost a mystical vibe to the setting here, with farms, orchards, honey-making cottages, and solitary stone chapels dotting the olive grove landscape. The village comes to life during summer when food fairs lure gourmands of handmade pasta. Take your time visiting farms where shepherds sell seasoned, pungent pecorino sheep cheese, fresh ricotta, and yogurt. And you can finally add some foraging skills to your repertoire by participating in a porcini mushroom hunt, where the treasures are deliciously edible.

Shutterstock/Giambattista Lazazzera
Shutterstock/Giambattista Lazazzera
Shutterstock/Giambattista Lazazzera

Bassiano

Foodies with a craving for Italian prosciutto can’t miss Bassiano. This village is famous for its succulent dry-cured ham, which has a strong, seasoned flavor and is one of Italy’s most tasty and expensive. Located on the Lepini hills between Naples and Rome, Bassiano overlooks a valley dotted with lush gardens, kiwi plantations, and grazing buffalo (mozzarella is another must-try food here, by the way). Shaped like a spiral, the town has medieval architecture with lookout towers, fortified walls, and stone turret houses, where peasant families once lived alongside their animals. Moss grows over many doorsteps. A labyrinth of arched passageways and stone steps connect the different levels of the village. From any belvedere lookout room atop the houses, the view stretches to the Tyrrhenian coast’s Pontine islands.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTwitterPinterestYouTubeTikTok, and Snapchat.

Silvia Marchetti is a contributor for Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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