Travel

I Was So Blown Away By This South American Country, I Actually Moved There

After seeing Colombia's most beautiful sights , you might too.

andresr/E+/Shutterstock
andresr/E+/Shutterstock
andresr/E+/Shutterstock

Note: We know COVID-19 is impacting travel plans right now. For a little inspiration, we’ll continue to share stories from our favorite places around the world so you can keep daydreaming about your next adventure.Prior to my first visit in 2011, my perception of Colombia hadn’t been great. I’d heard horror stories about cartels, kidnappings, and civil war. It wasn’t a place I had contemplated visiting until I made some great Colombian friends at work in London. When my friend Johanna finished her studies, she insisted that I come visit her in Colombia. So I booked my ticket and a few months later I was off.

Touching down in Bogotá, I marveled at the contrast between the sprawling concrete metropolis and the deep-green mountains surrounding it. “The views from the mountains must be awesome,” I thought. I wasn’t wrong. Bogotá, a city built “2,600 meters closer to the stars,” has the most spectacular urban sunsets I’ve ever seen, and there’s no better place to see them than from the top of Mount Monserrate.

Johanna’s family descends from the indigenous Wayuu tribe, so she wanted to take me to their native land in the northeastern department of La Guajira. Cabo de la Vela is undeveloped, isolated, and has a dramatic landscape of sea, desert, shrubs, and cactuses stretching as far as the eye can see. It is one of the most special places I’ve ever visited. After a knuckle-whitening jeep ride through the desert with jubilant vallenato music blasting from the stereo, we arrived in the sacred land of the Wayuu. Cabo de la Vela, Johanna told me, is the Wayuu people’s “gateway to the afterlife.” I’m not religious, but it felt like Heaven to me.

Eventually, love and friendship drew me back to Colombia again and again until I finally moved there in 2013. Now that I’ve traveled more extensively throughout the country, I realize they weren’t exaggerating when a campaign claimed “Colombia is magical realism.” Here are some of the country’s most magical sights.

A. Blanke/shutterstock
A. Blanke/shutterstock
A. Blanke/shutterstock

Mount Monserrate at sunset, Bogotá

Bogotá isn’t exactly the definition of a beautiful city. Unregulated urban growth and high levels of pollution make for a lot of grey and and often hazy views across the city. However, when it comes to having its picture taken-as with people-Bogotá has a “good side” and a “bad side.” The secret to capturing its good side is to snap it from atop Mount Monserrate at sunset through nightfall. As yellows and oranges turn to purples and indigos, punctuated by charcoal smudges of cloud, you’ll experience one of the most beautiful sunset cityscapes you’ve ever seen.

VW Pics/Universal Images Group/Getty Images
VW Pics/Universal Images Group/Getty Images
VW Pics/Universal Images Group/Getty Images

Hummingbird Observatory, Cundinamarca

Colombia is the second most biodiverse country in the world after Brazil, and is home to more than species of bird 1,900 bird. At the Hummingbird Observatory, about an hour from Bogotá, 18 different species of hummingbird have been recorded. The observatory is, in fact, a local woman’s back garden. When she moved to the area and started to spot these enigmatic birds, she began planting flowers and hanging feeders to attract more. Getting up close to these birds with magical names such as the Amethyst-throated Sunangel and the Great Sapphirewing was such an incredible experience. Get there by taking a bus to La Calera and then a taxi, hire a private car or book a tour.

Javier Crespo/shutterstock
Javier Crespo/shutterstock
Javier Crespo/shutterstock

Chingaza National Park, Cundinamarca

If you want a challenging but rewarding hike-and can handle the altitude, which is more than 10,000ft at the lowest point-I highly recommend Chingaza National Park. The rare páramo ecosystem of the park only exists in five countries in the world — defined as existing between the upper treeline and before the snow border, 3200 to 5000 metres above sea level — and its high altitude and intermittent cloud cover can make the landscape seem pretty surreal. Plants, animals and humans alike need to be made of tough stuff to survive in this harsh environment. On my trip to Chingaza, we chose one of the tougher hiking routes, which made me doubt my level of fitness at times. However, in spite of the dense, sticky mud and thin air, it was all worth it when we reached the summit. The panoramic views over the lagoon in the middle of this otherworldly landscape, scattered with spikey, odd-looking frailejon plants, was like nothing I’d seen before.

Jesse Kraft/EyeEm/Getty Images
Jesse Kraft/EyeEm/Getty Images
Jesse Kraft/EyeEm/Getty Images

Cartagena, Colombia

This UNESCO World Heritage Site greets visitors with a spectrum of bright colors, with bougainvillea hanging from the balconies of pastel-colored colonial buildings. When I’m in Cartagena, I love to stroll through the streets, explore the markets and boutiques, and drool over the gorgeous handmade Wayuu mochila bags being sold on the sidewalk. The street vendors are expecting a negotiation, so remember to bargain! My favorite way to end the day is with a cold drink at Café del Mar on top of the city wall. There’s no beating those explosive sunset views.

Karol Kozlowski/robertharding/Getty images
Karol Kozlowski/robertharding/Getty images
Karol Kozlowski/robertharding/Getty images

Tayrona National Park, Santa Marta

Located on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, Tayrona National Park is a stunner all but demanding to top your bucket list. Miles and miles of powdery sand fringed by lush jungle, palm trees, and giant boulders await. The sea here is generally calm, but be advised that swimming is only allowed on certain beaches, including Cabo San Juan, Tayrona’s busiest beach. La Piscina beach, meanwhile, is the best for snorkeling. If like me you don’t want to fight for towel space, walk along to Castilletes beach. You may just have the beach to yourself -the only downside is you won’t be able to swim. Away from the shore, there are excellent opportunities for jungle hiking and wildlife watching (iguanas, monkeys and very shy jaguars), with several well-marked hiking trails.

Jess Kraft/shutterstock
Jess Kraft/shutterstock
Jess Kraft/shutterstock

Cabo de la Vela, La Guajira

Cabo de la Vela is the sacred land of Colombia’s indigenous Wayuu tribe, and has an unbelievably chill atmosphere. It’s pretty hard to get to, so you’ll want to spend at least a night there, either in a hammock or a very basic beach hut. Climb the majestic Pilon de Azucar hill for sweeping views across the landscape before spending a day on the stunning beach at Playa del Pilon. The windy conditions here take the edge off the dry heat, also making it perhaps the best place in the world for kite-surfing. Sign up for a beginner’s session or an entire course if you want to sail the skies-there are several schools to choose from.

Harri Jarvelainen Photography/Moment Open/Getty Images
Harri Jarvelainen Photography/Moment Open/Getty Images
Harri Jarvelainen Photography/Moment Open/Getty Images

Crab Cay, Providencia

The gorgeous Caribbean island of Providencia is a 20-minute small plane ride away from its more famous neighbor, San Andres Island. With a population of just 5,000 people, Providencia has a chilled out and authentic vibe. You can hire a moped and do a full circuit of the island in half an hour, then take a motorboat or kayak across the water to Crab Cay. There isn’t much to do there except swim in the crystalline waters around the dock before climbing up to the highest point on the island to admire the views, but what else do you really need? You’ll soon find out why they call this part of the Caribbean “the sea of seven colors.”

Exequiel Schvartz/shutterstock
Exequiel Schvartz/shutterstock
Exequiel Schvartz/shutterstock

Cocora Valley, Quindio

Ever wondered where the phrase “walking among giants” originated? I believe it came from Colombia’s Cocora Valley. If there’s an image I won’t forget in a hurry, it’s that of hundreds of giant wax palm trees dotted across the fields and ravines of the Cocora Valley. The valley is a half-hour jeep ride from the pretty town of Salento, then another half-hour hike from the entrance down to the main valley. If you’re feeling adventurous, I recommend leaving early for a challenging but rewarding six-hour hike of the valley.

Diego Robayo/EyeEm/Getty Images
Diego Robayo/EyeEm/Getty Images
Diego Robayo/EyeEm/Getty Images

Guatapé, Antioquia

This sweeping colonial town is just a two-hour bus ride away from Medellin‘s north bus terminal. Get off just before the town at “La Piedra del Peñol,” a huge monolith rising more than 700 feet from the ground. Those who climb the 740 steps to the top are rewarded with spectacular 360-degree views of the beautiful lake filled with tiny islands. If you have time, hire a kayak and explore the lake and its islands. Otherwise, take a passing bus into town, where you’ll be greeted with bright blocks of color and red-tiled rooftops-and so many photo opportunities. The village is decorated with dozens of pretty murals and symbols reflecting the local occupations, wildlife, and countryside. Be sure to get a photo on the multi-colored steps of the “Plazoleta de los Zócalos.”

Jesse Kraft/EyeEm/Getty Images
Jesse Kraft/EyeEm/Getty Images
Jesse Kraft/EyeEm/Getty Images

Los Llanos Orientales, Casanare

The vast tropical wetlands and plains of Casanare in eastern Colombia are the ideal place for a wildlife safari. As tourism is still a relatively new concept here, the local wildlife is pretty chill around humans and therefore easy to spot. Expect to see exotic animals such as the capybara (the largest rodent in the world), howler monkeys, giant anteaters, caiman, and even anacondas. There are fabulous opportunities for hiking through the flooded forests (don’t forget your boots!), canoeing in the lagoons, jeep safaris, and horseback riding across the grasslands. As if you needed one more reason to visit: Los Llanos have some of the most dramatic sunrises and sunsets in Colombia.

sunsinger/shutterstock
sunsinger/shutterstock
sunsinger/shutterstock

Caño Cristales, Meta

This “river of five colors” in the Serranía de La Macarena National Park is like something out of Colombian Gabriel García Márquez‘s novels. The aquatic plants that grow in the river give it a vibrant red color from June to November, and the colors are brightest in August and September. You can swim in the river, but you won’t be allowed to use sunblock or bug spray, so be sure to cover up. The area is pretty remote and nearly impossible to access by land, so your best option is to book through a tour company.

Antonio Salinas L./moment/getty images
Antonio Salinas L./moment/getty images
Antonio Salinas L./moment/getty images

Las Lajas church, Pasto

If you’re backpacking through Colombia and heading for Ecuador, a stop at Las Lajas church is a must. Las Lajas is famous for its size, its unusual neo-gothic architecture, and its positioning across the expanse of a canyon. The church was built to commemorate a sighting of the Virgin Mary on the rock face during a storm in the 18th century. What makes it so unique is that it has been built into the side of the ravine-the back wall of the church is actually the rock face itself. For the best views and photo opportunities, take a ride in one of the cable cars.

EyesWideOpen/Getty Images News
EyesWideOpen/Getty Images News
EyesWideOpen/Getty Images News

Whale-watching on the Pacific Coast

If you’re looking to get far from civilization, this is the place to be. From July through early October, humpback whales congregate in the waters off Colombia’s Pacific coast to breed, with the best whale-watching opportunities to be found around Nuqui, Bahia Solano, and Bahia Malaga. Accommodation in these areas is normally comfortable but basic. Expect open-air dorms and showers, no hot water and only sporadic WiFi access, if any. There are some good eco-hostels overlooking the beautiful El Almejal beach near Bahia Solano, and they can also help you book a whale-watching tour.Sign up here for our daily Thrillist email, get Next Flight Out for more travel coverage, and subscribe here for our YouTube channel to get your fix of the best in food/drink/fun.

Naomi Dalton is a freelance writer currently living between Spain, England, and Colombia. When she’s not writing or blogging at How to Bogotá, she’s usually out exploring, photographing street art, or eating tapas.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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