Travel

The Best Places on Earth to (Ethically) Visit Rad Wild Animals

Animal and wildlife tourism can be incredibly sketchy. Here's where to go to do it right.

4FR/E+/Getty Images
4FR/E+/Getty Images
4FR/E+/Getty Images

Animal and wildlife tourism is one of those industries with a dark underbelly people don’t want to think about. They just want to hug a sloth, which is totally understandable. And it’s often impossible to tell from the outside whether you’re giving your tourism dollars to a place that’s helping the animal in question or hurting them. (Unless you’re just wading through bioluminescent plankton, in which case, wade on.)

To cut through some of the confusion, here are some of the most breathtaking animal-lover destinations around the globe that you can safely stan-places where you can visit your fave animal without worry, and ideally, contribute to its conservation. Sloths for all.

Oriol Querol/Shutterstock.com
Oriol Querol/Shutterstock.com
Oriol Querol/Shutterstock.com

Where to see elephants: Chiang Mai, Thailand

You are going to see so many offers to ride and play with elephants in Thailand, and we regret to inform you that that shit is Problematic™. But instead of giving money to facilities and organizations where elephants are abused, you can help undo some of that damage at Elephant Nature Reserve, an extraordinary rehabilitation centre that rescues abused elephants from tourist traps and logging camps. No, you don’t ride the elephants (not trying to ruin your day right now so you if you want to see for yourself what goes into “training” an elephant to be ridden, just Google “elephant phajaan videos”). But you do feed them and bathe and play with them, all without having to feel awful about it.
When to go: February or November, when the weather is crisp and cool and you can catch some local festivals.
Cost: Starting at $80 for adults, $40 for children ages 2 to 11; includes transportation and lunch.

andreaizzotti/Shutterstock.com
andreaizzotti/Shutterstock.com
andreaizzotti/Shutterstock.com

Where to see grey whales: Baja California, Mexico

You know you’ve always wanted to pet a whale, and in Baja California you can safely do so. Friendly and inquisitive, grey whales will swim right up to your boat and invite you to splash them and scratch their heads. This doesn’t hurt them or mess with their migration routes in any way, so it’s one of the few times you have the green light to pet an animal in the wild. The three main lagoons in Baja where grey whales hang out are Scammon’s Lagoon, Magdalena Bay, and San Ignacio Lagoon, the latter of which is the most popular for whale-watching and -petting tours.
When to go: Springtime, when grey whales stop here to mate and give birth (gestation lasts about a year) on their way to the Arctic.
Cost: From around $55 for basic day trips that don’t include food up through the $3,000-range for weeklong, all-inclusive packages by aeroplane and boat.

shareyourexperiences/gettyimages
shareyourexperiences/gettyimages
shareyourexperiences/gettyimages

Where to see humpback whales: Hawaii

Male humpback whales are the ones that make that famous whale song, and Hawaii (Maui is probably your best bet here) is among the world’s optimal places to see and hear them. Humpbacks are another sociable species, so if you take a boat trip odds are decent they’ll come right up close to check you out. If you’re on the fence about booking a trip, listening to this might help.

In 2016 humpback whales were removed from the endangered species list for the first time in more than 50 years. But scientists are uncertain whether this is a good thing for the whales, and whether the data that led to them getting bumped was really representing the full picture. You can donate to the Hawaii Wildlife Fund to support ongoing humpback conservation work.
When to go: February is peak season, but you can find them migrating through Hawaiian waters from November to May.
Cost: Starting around $50 for a snorkelling day trip or dinner cruise.

jacknevitt/Shutterstock.com
jacknevitt/Shutterstock.com
jacknevitt/Shutterstock.com

Where to see wild horses: Assateague Island, Virginia

Local legend posits that the feral wild horses of Assateague Island are survivors of a shipwreck, made to fend for themselves in a dramatic tale of conquering odds. While there’s no evidence to back that up, their actual lives are just as cinematic: The horses roam free, the salty wind whipping through their manes, braving the elements on a barrier island almost barren of food.

On a single day every year since 1925, they do a “Pony Swim,” an annual roundup where they swim (!) from the horse-populated island of Assateague to the human-populated neighbour island of Chincoteague, accompanied by Saltwater Cowboys (again, !). On Pony Swim days you can line up on shore for a thrilling view, and to see the horses any other day you can either drive onto the island (but don’t get too close, or try to feed them), or rent a kayak or take a boat tour to spot them along the shoreline, maybe along with some dolphins.
When to go: July for the Chincoteague Pony Swim. If you’re not into crowds-the event can draw tens of thousands of visitors-try going sometime between April and October.
Cost: National Park entrance fees start at $5; day trips by boat are generally around $45.

Nacho Such/Shutterstock.com
Nacho Such/Shutterstock.com
Nacho Such/Shutterstock.com

Where to see sloths: Monteverde Cloud Forest, Costa Rica

Sloths are stupefyingly cute and adorably slow, and, fun fact,  come in either two-toed or three-toed varieties. But lately some questionable details have surfaced about a few of the more popular sloth sanctuaries. Consider hiring a guide and searching for them in their natural environment instead. Costa Rica, inarguably the sloth-tourism capital of the world, features loads of places where you can hunt (figuratively speaking) for both two- and three-toed sloths. But among the most extraordinary is the Monteverde Cloud Forest; take a night tour in addition to your daytime hike to improve your sloth-seeing odds.
When to go: Immediately (or whenever’s convenient; sloth-visibility is about the same year-round).
Cost: Starting around $25.

Thierry Falise/Gettyimages
Thierry Falise/Gettyimages
Thierry Falise/Gettyimages

Where to see gorillas: Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of the Congo

There’s no better place in the world to see critically endangered mountain gorillas than the park that was founded to protect them. The park rangers today literally give their lives to keep the remaining gorillas safe from poachers, just as they did through the Congolese civil war. So when you go on a gorilla trek with them, you can be confident that every precaution has been taken so you won’t harm the gorillas or their environment-even in non-Covid times you’re required to wear a surgical mask, since gorillas’ immune systems aren’t set up to handle whatever diseases your human body might be packing (no offence). Kids have to be at least 15 to go on a gorilla trek, though there are no age restrictions on the other themed treks the park offers (chimpanzee, volcano, and mountain climbing).
When to go: December through February if you’re going to the northern part of the park; April through October for the southern part. December is the most popular time, so book far in advance if that’s when you plan to take those vacation days.
Cost: $400 for non-Congolese adults

 Martin Harvey/The Image Bank/Getty Images
Martin Harvey/The Image Bank/Getty Images
Martin Harvey/The Image Bank/Getty Images

Where to see endangered giraffes: Nairobi, Kenya

Kenya is a land of safaris, but you don’t need to shell out the big bucks to have an encounter with the world’s tallest mammal. Nairobi is home to Giraffe Centre, an environmental conservation sanctuary for endangered Rothschild giraffes, of which only 2,100 are left in Africa. The gentle giants spend their days roaming in their own personal acreage and, when they feel like it, wandering over to your tower, where you can feed them pellets (put one in your mouth and get a purple-tongued “kiss”). Next, stroll their Nature Trail, where you can spot dik-diks (adorable) and warthogs (watch out).

You can also spend the night at Giraffe Manor, an elegant boutique hotel across from the reserve, which you’ve probably oohed and aahed on Instagram. The big guys often come around at breakfast and poke their heads through the dining room windows for some attention (and hopefully snacks). It’s a bucket-list experience that doesn’t come cheap, but your money helps support the sanctuary.
When to go: Whenever you want, really, but the driest and coolest months are July and August.
Cost: $14 for the Giraffe Center, starting at $875/night for Giraffe Manor.

 Art Wolfe/Stone/Getty Images
Art Wolfe/Stone/Getty Images
Art Wolfe/Stone/Getty Images

Where to see polar bears: Churchill, Manitoba, Canada

Every year a lumbering army of polar bears make the trek to the remote Canadian town of Churchill for feeding season. The town is even nicknamed the Polar Bear Capital of the World, with a whole tourism industry built around the spectacle. Operators will take you out into the tundra on a massive school bus-sized 4×4 (all the better to keep out of reach of curious furry friends). For an even more up-close-and personal look, book a stay with Churchill Wild, a set of family-owned and operated lodges and the first to pioneer walking tours in polar bear country. The town of Churchill is also a spectacular viewing location for the Northern Lights, visible 300 days of the year, and to see chirping beluga whales in the summer.
When to go: October to November for polar bears; July to September for belugas
Cost: Tundra tours begin at $400, with multi-day Churchill Wild Tours beginning at $10,000

 Davide Chiaramonte/EyeEm/Getty Images
Davide Chiaramonte/EyeEm/Getty Images
Davide Chiaramonte/EyeEm/Getty Images

Where to see kangaroos: Kangaroo Island 

It’s right there in the name: Australia’s Kangaroo Island lets you get up close and personal with the pugilistic indigenous marsupials. But it’s also pretty famous for Tammar wallabies, koalas, pelicans, penguins, whale watching, the only wild population of platypus in South Australia, and seals (for that, go to Seal Bay-they don’t get too creative with the names, it seems).

Known as the Australian Galapagos, over one third of this land is protected in national and conservation parks. Which means an itinerary could include a nocturnal tour of koalas (they’re usually snoozing during the day), spotting raptors in the air, avoiding kangaroo kicks in a sanctuary, and communing with lazy seals and curious wallabies at Flinders Chase National Park. (The latter is also home to the impressive Admirals Arch and the insta-famous Cape du Couedic Road). Note: the park was severely damaged during the wildfires in 2020, but has re-opened for self-driving. Camping is not yet allowed.
When to go: March through May, but each season offers different wildlife spotting opportunities.
Cost: From $11 entry to Flinders Chase National Park. Plus, whatever your car rental costs. Nocturnal tours, $47.

Kastalia Medrano is a New York-based journalist and avid traveller. Follow her @kastaliamedrano.
Vanita Salisbury is Thrillist’s Senior Travel Writer. 

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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