Travel

Burlington is a World-Class Beer City. Here's Where to Get Your Fill.

The best breweries and bars for a taste of Vermont beer.

Zero Gravity Craft Brewery
Zero Gravity Craft Brewery
Zero Gravity Craft Brewery

Editor’s note: We know COVID-19 is impacting travel plans right now. For a little inspiration, we’ll continue to share stories from our favorite places around the world. Be sure to check travel restrictions and protocols before you head out.Writing about beer in Vermont is like writing about cheese in France or snowboarding in Whistler. It’s a global lodestar for brewers and drinkers, a beer culture unique enough to be recognized as a categorical distinction-“Vermont beer”-that’s both created and defined by the Green Mountain State. 

Vermont’s 68 craft breweries vary drastically in scale and size, with brewers operating from centuries-old barns, refurbished industrial warehouses or a relative’s garage alike. Its brewers-ranging from world-coveted game-changers like Hill Farmstead and The Alchemist to tiny local operations punching above their weight-make an astonishing 22 gallons of beer per adult resident of legal drinking age. This is a state with an actual 1876 court case titled The State of Vermont vs. One Keg of Lager Beer, and the keg of lager won. And because much of the beer made here stays here, to truly understand Vermont beer, it’s best to go to the source.

Every piece of the state has its own tally of international superstars and hidden gems, but as the biggest city in a small state that survives on the local, Burlington is a beer lover’s ultimate playground. When it’s safe to travel, here are the best places to buy beer, sip beer, and celebrate the brewers that make Vermont beer so spectacular. 

Foam Brewers
Foam Brewers
Foam Brewers

Foam Brewers

Foam co-founder Todd Haire is one of the great master brewers in the US. After 13 years ushering in the rise of craft beer as the head brewer at Magic Hat Brewery, Haire opened his own operation on the Lake Champlain waterfront in 2016. Foam was quickly named one of the 10 best new breweries in the world, and the team continues to work with local malters and hop growers to make some of the best beers in the country. Featured taps could include a perfect pilsner; an effervescent sour infused with local berries; a single-barrel wet-hop brew with fresh buds from a local hop farm; and a few double IPA can releases with a cult following.
 

Farmhouse Tap & Grill 

This is where you might find yourself after a hardy winter hike with a scroll-length beer list filled with hyper-local brews and international darlings alike. Maybe you’ll have a glass of Hill Farmstead’s newest keg or a silky stout from Four Quarters Brewery-or maybe you’ll just get lost in the beauty of a beer lover’s goldmine. Luckily, the bartenders are used to it, and here to help. Alongside the main dining room, where regulars settle into leather booths and high-top tables, the restaurant also houses a seasonal beer garden and a subterranean speakeasy with fireplaces, cozy seating, and the full menu.
 

Manhattan Pizza

Seeking a locally beloved dive with karaoke night, cheap pizza and some of the most coveted cans and kegs in the country? Find Manhattan Pizza, where you can get a can of Heady Topper, a draft of Hill Farmstead, a few slices of pepperoni pizza, and a live serenade of “Stand By Me” all in one place. The pub’s onsite dining and drinking is temporarily closed during COVID, but you can still get all the takeout cans, growlers, batched cocktails, and pizza you fancy to take home.

Zero Gravity Craft Brewery
Zero Gravity Craft Brewery
Zero Gravity Craft Brewery

Zero Gravity Brewery

Zero Gravity founder Paul Sayler and head brewer Destiny Saxon have been pillars of the Vermont beer world since opening doors in 2004. They set the example for how to scale a brewery in size without sacrificing creativity and quality. The Pine Street brewery and tap room is anchored by a large, square, wraparound bar that opens up to an adjacent room with retro-style couches and a handcrafted shuffleboard table. In the warmer months, the patio is open for seasonal brews like Strawberry Moon, a gently sour ale with fresh strawberries, and an order of dirty fries from The Great Northern next door. 
 

Queen City Brewery

Of the 16 taps at Queen City, many of head brewer Lilian MacNamara’s beers pay homage to the easy-drinking, lower ABV pub styles favored in the brewing cultures of countries like Germany and Ireland. It’s a place to have a glass or two without feeling heady on high-octane pours and to admire old black-and-white photos of Burlington and the inexplicable teal pick-up truck parked above the bar. The Queen City Dunkel-with subtle hints of cocoa and dark olives, like the classic German-style dark lager it’s named for-is one good place to start as you appreciate the steel fermentation tanks humming away in the background.

Switchback Brewing Company
Switchback Brewing Company
Switchback Brewing Company

Switchback Brewing Co.

For almost two decades, Switchback has been a leader in the tightly knit Vermont craft-beer world, and a point of origin for a handful of now-successful brewery owners who gained experience onsite. Beers are unfiltered and naturally carbonated, and the brewery has been 100% employee-owned since 2017. The taproom has the feeling of an all-day locals’ hangout, with floor-to-ceiling windows, wooden paneling, and flights of beer tucked into Vermont-shaped serving trays.
 

Mule Bar

If you’re looking for where brewers drink off-hours, seek out Mule Bar in Winooski, Burlington’s small-city neighbor with a growing tally of bars and restaurants. Inside Mule Bar, you’ll find a lengthy list of drafts and bottles featuring some of the world’s most sought-after brews, with burgers, BBQ chicken sandwiches, and poutine (made with local cheese curds-it’s Vermont) to wash it down. There are picnic tables outside in the summer, and a tiny indoor bar facing the always-changing chalkboard beer menu. Though the space is temporarily closed, the COVID takeout menu currently offers almost four dozen beers to-go.

Four Quarters Brewing
Four Quarters Brewing
Four Quarters Brewing

Four Quarters Brewing

Beers from this 10-barrel microbrewery and taproom are hard to find even in-state, so there’s no better place than the point of origin to sample Four Quarters’ nuanced, crystal-clear takes on sours, stouts, and hoppy ales. The phases of the moon embossed on the brewery’s logo, say Four Quarters’ founders, are meant to indicate the sun, Earth, wind, and rain encoded into each ingredient in its path to one’s pint glass-a brewer’s awe of the natural world distilled into glowing pours like Spectra, a frothy double IPA with the piney, apricot-laced taste of Simcoe and El Dorado hops.
 

Juniper at Hotel Vermont 

Matt Canning’s position as the beer concierge at Hotel Vermont was a long time coming. His father was the co-founder of what is now the internationally famous Vermont Brewer’s Festival-the poster for the first festival in 1989, curled and faded under glass on Canning’s bedroom wall, lists his childhood home phone number for ticket orders. Juniper, the sleek and relaxing restaurant beside the plush hotel lobby, is an oasis for beer exploring guided by Canning’s input.

Simple Roots Brewing
Simple Roots Brewing
Simple Roots Brewing

Simple Roots Brewing

Kara Pawlusiak and Dan Ukolowicz started this nanobrewery in their garage in 2014. They’ve since expanded to a brewery and taproom in walking distance from that garage, half-hidden near a Hannaford Supermarket shopping complex and the sprawling waterfront greenspace of Leddy Park. Here, the small yet mighty goal is to do simple better-whether you’re sipping a sunny Czech-style pilsner, a pristine kolsch or a perfectly balanced IPA.
 

Beverage Warehouse

Owner Jen Swiatek runs this unassumingly named destination for beer and wine shopping in Winooski, and it has been a quiet cornerstone of Vermont’s beer community since opening doors in 1977.  From the outside, “the Bevvie” looks like your average highway-abutting liquor market. On the inside, it opens up into a beer-lover’s Narnia, with cans and bottles lined library-like in a meandering maze of local and international brews. Previous staff positions have included a “Manager of Imagination Realization,” and there are few more knowledgeable (or more stocked) spots in the country when it comes to Vermont beer, brewers, and craft trends. 

NOTE: Vermont is a beer destination both because of the beautiful and fertile land and because much of the beer brewed here stays here. Vermont beer is a lasting emblem of something that makes both locals and travelers come together, even if doing so now requires masks, social distancing, and mutual respect for safety. In the years of pandemic, many breweries are offering wider distribution, expanding the kinds of cans and growlers available for takeaway, and bulking up their roster of logoed sweatshirts, snapbacks, and glassware. If there was ever a time to show love for Vermont beer from a distance, it has never been easier.Sign up here for our daily Thrillist email, get Next Flight Out for more travel coverage, and subscribe here for our YouTube channel to get your fix of the best in food/drink/fun.

Beyond working in restaurants, on working farms, and as the lead recipe developer of a national food magazine, Julia Clancy writes about people and place through the lens of food and drink. She was the restaurant critic at Boston Magazine, and currently writes freelance for publications like the Washington Post, the San Francisco Chronicle, Food 52 and Craft Beer, among others.  She splits her time between Boston, Los Angeles and her lodestar for beer: Vermont. Follow her on Instagram.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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