Travel

5 Must-Visit Beach Towns on Mexico's Most Laid-Back Coast

Park your umbrella or plan a road trip because beach hopping > bar hopping.

LMspencer/Shutterstock
LMspencer/Shutterstock
LMspencer/Shutterstock

Note: The US State Department has issued a Level 3 travel advisory to reconsider travel to Mexico. For more information about travel restrictions to Mexico, click here. For now, use this guide as inspiration to satisfy your wanderlust safely from home.Between its almost mythically mooned-over mezcal and mole, its paradisal playas and lush green mountain ranges, its affordable price tag and the year-round tropical weather, there are a good number of reasons to head to Mexico’s Oaxacan coast. 

The biggest allure? Way. Fewer. People-especially when compared to other popular beach destinations like Tulum or Puerto Vallarta

Along this stretch of Pacific coastline you’ll find a string of beautiful, unpretentious beach towns offering rest and relaxation of the highest caliber-towns where your view of the ocean isn’t spoiled by high-rises, and the culture is far more genuine than anything you’d find at a Señor Frog’s in Cancun. 

But while Mexico is open to American tourists right now, these low-key surfer hangouts are currently undergoing waves of COVID-related closures. You can still daydream and plan your road trip along the stunning Oaxaca coast for some sunny day in the (hopefully near) future.

 UNSPLASH / EMOTIVEPHOTOGRAPHY
UNSPLASH / EMOTIVEPHOTOGRAPHY
UNSPLASH / EMOTIVEPHOTOGRAPHY

Puerto Escondido

The Oaxacan coast’s largest and most well-known town is still blissfully low-key.

Kick things off in Puerto Escondido (that’s where the airport is, for one thing). This pint-sized town perfectly encapsulates what’s so great about the Oaxacan coast. While it’s well-touristed and moderately developed, it still feels pleasantly authentic. It’s why PE made our list of 20 places we’re dreaming about this year.

After decades of flying under the radar, this fishing port has become something of a global surfing mecca. Playa Zicatela‘s Pipeline boasts some truly bodacious waves, and that’s where you’ll find the most experienced boarders. Swimmers and surfers who are still getting their feet wet should head to Playa Carrizalillo, a beautiful horseshoe cove rimmed by lush greenery and a few bars, or to La Punta, a bohemian neighborhood at the far end of Zicatela where the surf is protected by the curved beach point. Plenty of surf schools offer lessons on a daily basis.

Zicatela, La Punta, and the neighborhood above Carrizalillo called the Rinconada are packed with bars, cafes, and restaurants of every variety, from dingey beach dives to more refined seafood spots. Beach-goers looking to party won’t be disappointed, either-bands and DJs keep things lively well into morning.

Where to eat: Head to the large market, Mercado Zicatela, and on its beach-side you’ll find a string of tasty restaurants offering traditional Mexican dishes. For dinner, splurge at Espadin, owned by chef Patricio Sandoval of Chicago’s Mercadito. Or head to Costa Hermosa where the food is tasty, the view is beautiful, and the seafood platter is supremely satisfying.

Must-do: If you’re visiting between the months of August and December, you’re practically obligated to check out Laguna de Manialtepec, a lagoon that’s lit up at night by bioluminescent plankton. Take a guided boat tour, or simply bathe, literally, in the electric-blue glow of the tiny ocean critters.

If you’re looking to take home some Oaxacan handcrafts, head over to Mercado Benito Juarez where you can find a slew of leather goods, handmade clothing, richly-patterned blankets, and other mementos. And be sure to grab a bag of Oaxacan coffee beans from one of the roasters nearby.

Rent a car so you can cruise the rest of the coast: Los Tres Reyes is by far the most reputable provider. There are also a few scooter and motorbike rental services scattered around, which are great options if you’re traveling light. 

Flickr/Fabio
Flickr/Fabio
Flickr/Fabio

Bahías de Huatulco

Mexico’s newest resort community is also its most approachable.

Known simply as Huatulco to the locals, this former fishing village saw a boom in development starting in the ’80s-but don’t let the word “boom” throw you. Buildup has been modest in scale, the town never feels overcrowded even during peak season, and it’s maintained a laid-back charm that’s rare for a resort community. 

Huatulco has a series of seven turquoise blue bays that are calm, clear, and excellent for swimming. They also host a splendid array of marine life, so snorkeling is the thing to do here. The small, leafy center of town, La Crucecita, is anchored by a tranquil public plaza and packed with plenty of restaurant options, from no-frills Mexican diners to buttery French bistros.

Where to eat: Everyone in Huatulco knows Terra-Cotta, not only because it’s air conditioned and therefore in high demand, but also because its wide-ranging menu of Mexican and international dishes is rock-solid. Down the street, Giordana’s Delizie Italiane is a surprisingly authentic trattoria serving 100%-from-scratch pastas.

Must-do: Snorkeling is affordable and highly encouraged. Head to the harbor at Santa Cruz, where you can rent gear for 130 pesos for the day; then hire a lancha (motor boat) to take you to the coral reefs located in La Entrega, San Augustin, and Cacaluta. And be sure to check out the Hagia Sofia Eco Park for a guided tour of the jungle where you’ll encounter over 300 species of butterflies along with a range of other wildlife. Then hit the trees for some ziplining.

ROLANDS VARSBERGS/UNSPLASH
ROLANDS VARSBERGS/UNSPLASH
ROLANDS VARSBERGS/UNSPLASH

Traveling may be on pause, but that doesn’t mean your dreaming and planning has to be. With The Marriott Bonvoy Boundless™ Card, earn 6X Points at 7,000+ hotels participating in Marriott Bonvoy™ and 2X Points on all other purchases, including future flights. For the journey ahead, carry a card that’s here for you now.

Rachel88 / shutterstock
Rachel88 / shutterstock
Rachel88 / shutterstock

Mazunte

Oaxaca’s hippie hub boasts tranquil waves, green juice, and bongo circles for all.

Mazunte has become something of an international playground for harem pants-wearing, essential oils-scented alternative types. The water is the main attraction: gentle aquamarine waves that are among the most swimmable in the area.

You’ll find a number of entrepreneurs staking beach umbrellas into the sand for you. Rent one for the entire day for just 100 pesos (about $5 USD). As you lounge and swim, other enterprising souls will roam the beach: a machete-armed man trimming fresh coconuts to drink, señoras balancing tamale- and taco dorado-laden baskets on their heads, groups of teenagers from the local bakery hawking a variety of sweet and savory pastries. The farthest you’ll need to roam from your towel is a few meters to the back of the beach, where little bar-huts dispense shots of mezcal, or provide you with a Styrofoam cooler full of ice and bottled beer that you can sip under the shade of your umbrella.

Where to eat: For a non-sandy meal, stray to the town for thin-crust pizzas and a decent selection of imported beers at La EmpanadaIf you’re in the mood for a more romantic setting, look no further than Azulmar, where you can enjoy seafood with a beachside view of the sunset.

Must-do: Climb up to take in the dramatic sunset from Punta Cometa, a rocky outcrop that delivers the region’s absolute best view of the horizon. And if you’re looking to experience some wildlife, participate in a turtle release via the National Mexican Turtle Center at the nearby Laguna Ventanilla. While you’re there you’ll have the chance to spot crocodiles and a variety of other animals. 

Lorraine Mojica / unsplash
Lorraine Mojica / unsplash
Lorraine Mojica / unsplash

Zipolite

A sort of “Mazunte-lite,” this town offers many of its neighbor’s charms with a more grown-up vibe.

As laid-back as Mazunte is-and yeah, it’s pretty laid-back-the sheer volume of young, tattooed pleasure-seekers can sometimes be a not-entirely-welcome distraction from your beach read. For those seeking the same beautiful coastline, tasty food, and lazy afternoon micheladas, but with fewer waterfront bongo circles and a slightly older crowd, neighboring Zipolite is the perfect choice.

Tiny Zipolite enjoys an outsized reputation as a nudist paradise: In point of fact, the only remaining nude areas are clustered at the extreme west and east ends of the mile-long beach. In between, there’s just sun, soft white sand, and the roaring of the ocean. The waves here are choppier than in Mazunte, and the area is not safe for swimming, though bodyboarders and surfers can still do their thing.

Where to eat: Just steps from the beach, the neat, orderly town of Zipolite consists of just a few gridded streets, but there are still plenty of brightly painted shops and restaurants to peruse. The best seafood eatery in the area is Piedra de Fuegoan open-air, family-friendly joint that specializes in grilled catch-of-the-day. Ask for it “a la talla,” butterflied and crusted with a crimson-red, subtly spicy chili paste. For a gorgeous setting check out El Alquimista, which also has tasty vegan and vegetarian offerings. It doubles as a popular boho-style hotel with yoga classes and a spa.

Must-do: In the mornings, usually at 8am, motor boats depart from the beach on guided tours to spot whales, dolphins, and sea turtles. Trips usually last 2.5 hours and cost 200 pesos. Arrange a reservation with your hotel, or just scout around for the guides on the beach.

Sergio Ramos Sánchez / EyeEm / getty images
Sergio Ramos Sánchez / EyeEm / getty images
Sergio Ramos Sánchez / EyeEm / getty images

Chacahua

This rustic, lesser-known town features an expansive coastal national park.

For beachgoers seeking more than just sun and sand, Chacahua is an ideal getaway. While it’s right on the coast and has its fair share of beautiful beaches, the main attraction is the expansive Parque Nacional Lagunas de Chacahua, where turtles, crocodiles, and shore birds frolic. The area is a must-visit for nature lovers, especially those who want to disconnect; there’s still very little WiFi or internet here.

Accommodations in the area tend toward the very rustic and affordable, with few frills. Other than the wildlife, there’s not much to do besides lie on the beach, sip a cerveza, and enjoy the calm tranquility of an as-yet-undiscovered gem.

Where to eat: At Restaurante Siete Mares, octogenarian owner and cook Doña Meche plates soulful seafood such as shrimp in a fiery al diablo chili sauce, crispy red snapper in garlic sauce, and seasonal ceviches. Note that availability of food offerings in Chacahua-which are limited to begin with-tend to open and close somewhat randomly based upon how busy business happens to be, so if you’re worried about going hungry it may be advisable to pack along some food from neighboring Mazunte. Otherwise, the thatched beachfront palapas offer fresh, thirst-slaking coconuts and a variety of antojitos like tacos dorados and tlayudas.

Must-do: Explore the lush lakes and mangrove forests of the national park. Speak with your accommodations about hiring a local guide, who will pilot a boat through the five major lagoons and chat with you about all the incredible flora and fauna you see along the way.Sign up here for our daily Thrillist email, and get your fix of the best in food/drink/fun.

Lauren Rothman is a Brooklyn-based food and drinks writer. Check out her collection of food snapshots — and cat pics — on Instagram @laurenoliviarothman.

Nick Hilden is a travel, fitness, arts, and fiction writer whose work has appeared in the Los Angeles Times, Men’s Health, Vice, Greatist, and more. You can follow his weird adventures via Instagram or Twitter.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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