Travel

The Southern California Desert Is One Massive, Trippy Outdoor Gallery

Old Hollywood meets modern surreality in the epicenter of desert cool.

Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs
Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs
Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs

Editor’s note: We know COVID-19 is impacting travel plans right now. For a little inspiration, we’ll continue to share stories from our favorite places around the world. Be sure to check travel restrictions and protocols before you head out.Palm Springs has long been the epicenter of California desert cool, a magnet for people seeking something a little different and a lot weirder. The greater Palm Springs area was a playground for Old Hollywood royalty, who populated the iconic mid-century modern homes that dot the trippy landscape amid palm trees, lush fountains, and windmills. Its unique wilderness has long drawn people seeking escapes both luxurious and psychedelic. 

For California free spirits, the compass has always pointed to the desert, most recently thanks to the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival, perhaps the best-known music festival in the world.  

This year, the festival was put on pause. But the art that serves as the lifeblood of the region cannot, and will not, be canceled. Greater Palm Springs-the nine-city diaspora that includes Palm Desert, Indio, Coachella, and Indian Wells-remains on the brink of a major resurgence, with art and culture at the forefront of it all. 

“Out here you can experiment. Out here you’ve got space. You’ve got light. You’ve got so much beauty and inspiration,” says Steven Biller, artist and editor-in-chief at Palm Springs Life Magazine. “It’s a very contemplative place. The light does some magical things out here and that’s why artists love it.”

Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs
Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs
Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs

Look beyond the behemoth festival and over-the-top pool parties and a deeper history reveals itself. Most of Palm Springs actually sits on The Agua Caliente Indian Reservation that forms a checkerboard pattern alternating between city-owned and tribal land. The complex, intertwined relationship is an integral piece of the Greater Palm Springs evolution, which is reflected in a lot of the art you’ll find in the city and beyond, from murals reflecting local history to gallery displays and sculptures hidden in public places and expanses alike.  

“It’s a special place to explore,” says artist and local native Sofia Enriquez. “You can find an art scene in just about any city in the valley.” 

Inspiration continues to spark incredible things in the Southern California desert, which could be considered one huge, socially distant outdoor canvas. Even better, most of it is free. Here are the best ways to immerse yourself right now.

Desert X
Desert X
Desert X

Explore Desert X’s 40-mile outdoor gallery

Before the Coachella crowds descend, a biennial contemporary art exhibit called Desert X takes over the desert between February and April. The unconventional exhibit invites international artists to transform unlikely locations-an empty lot, a natural preserve, an abandoned storefront-into vibrant installations exploring the lesser-known parts of the valley. 

The free exhibit relies heavily on the outdoors, making it a fortuitous cultural experience during a pandemic. 

“There are many layers of histories in the Coachella Valley, and the artists are in this perfect position of bringing up all these matters-issues of justice, diversity, environmental awareness,” says Jenny Gil, executive director of Desert X. 

While the list of participating artists is generally not revealed until a few weeks before the opening, we are told this year’s third biennial exhibit is the most diverse to date, with 10-12 installations spread across 40 miles in the Valley. 

“You don’t have to be an art person to encounter these things and find meaning with them,” says Biller, who is also a Desert X board member.

Sofia Enriquez
Sofia Enriquez
Sofia Enriquez

Discover the stories of the Coachella Walls

Inspired by the Wynwood Walls in Miami, the Coachella Walls originally launched in 2014 with five murals in downtown Coachella’s Historic Pueblo Viejo District. The project was the brainchild of Armando Lerma and Carlos Ramirez (also known as the Date Farmers), who brought together artists from around the world to create works commemorating the forgotten farm community deeply embedded into the fabric of the city. 

The project has since expanded to 14 murals within a 10-block radius in an effort to revitalize the neighborhood and draw foot traffic to a rural town that tourists and Coachella concertgoers often overlook en route to the big event in neighboring Indio. 

Murals like El Mac’s Anonymous Farm Worker are an ode to the immigrant workers from Coachella who work tirelessly to supply our produce and crops in often harsh working conditions. Several others-such as Lucha Sin Fin by Mata Ruda-pay visual tribute to Latina women and the struggles they have endured. 

“Some of [the murals] are kind of tough in subject matter, but as a whole, the project is colorful, it’s vibrant, it’s triumphant, and it creates a place that kind of envelops you,” says Biller.

Natural Retreats c/o Homes & Villas by Marriott International
Natural Retreats c/o Homes & Villas by Marriott International
Natural Retreats c/o Homes & Villas by Marriott International

Immerse yourself in Palm Springs’ architecture and public art

Modern public art is everywhere in Palm Springs, from artist David Černý’s unsettling Babies installation to Instagrammer-baiting angel wings, stunning murals, sculptures, and even 40 art benches curated by The Palm Springs Public Arts Commission. But in Palm Springs, even the buildings themselves are indebted to the arts.

The mid-20th century modern architecture in Palm Springs is practically a trademark. Take a leisurely drive or bike ride through any of the residential streets and you’ll be gushing over the perfectly manicured homes and villas once owned by mega-celebrities like Dean Martin, Marilyn Monroe, and even Frank Sinatra. Other notable homes include the iconic desert ranch home with a striking pink door and a 1954 remodeled home called Mostero House

You can map out your own DIY tour, but you’ll be missing out on all the fascinating stories behind the walls. You’re better off booking a guided (COVID-safe) architectural tour with one of the many local operators like PS Architecture Tours or Palm Springs Mod Squad to find out why Palm Springs has been dubbed “The Playground of the Stars.”

There is perhaps no better time to explore the meeting point of art, architecture, and culture than during February’s Modernism Week. The weeklong annual festival that celebrates Palm Springs architecture, fashion, and design across more than 350 events. The art extravaganza includes home tours, films, lectures, and tours of galleries and gardens.  In 2021, Modernism Week will be a virtual program that will be streamed. Tickets and information can be found here.

Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs
Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs
Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs

Walk through the sprawling Sunnylands Gardens

Located just east of Palm Springs in Rancho Mirage, Sunnylands comprises both the 200-acre historic estate which was once home to philanthropists Walter and Leonore Annenberg, and the Center & Gardens. The estate was intended to be a place of privacy for influential world leaders that sought respite. Among the high-profile guests are former presidents Nixon and Obama and Queen Elizabeth.

Take a stroll outside along the 1.25-mile path and listen to a free, self-guided audio tour through the Sunnylands gardens, which was inspired by the impressionist and non-impressionist paintings that the Annenbergs once had inside the home. Other available tours include a Landscape Tour, which is a 45-minute shuttle ride, an Estate Bird Walk, or a Historic Walk. More information on the tours can be found here.

Before COVID, visitors could book a ticket to tour the interior of the home and browse the exhibit at the Center. Today, only the 15-acre sculpture gardens are currently open to visitors. A virtual tour of the current exhibit InMotion: Agam at Sunnylands is available here.

Photo by Lance Gerber
Photo by Lance Gerber
Photo by Lance Gerber

Play Where’s Waldo with sculptures throughout the desert

Sculptures are seen everywhere in the Greater Palm Springs area, dotting the landscape like funky cacti. Among the most iconic is the bronze sculpture at the Palm Desert Civic Center Park by Curt Mattson: named Messenger of the Puul, it honors the Cahuilla Indians in its depiction of a shaman receiving a message from an owl.  

Palm Desert’s El Paseo median has also been used as a showcase for sculptures. Explore the outdoor strip by car or foot and look for whimsical sculptures like What the Nose Knows-a giant-sized schnoz with glasses- by Ron Simmer or take a self-guided tour of the sculpture garden at the Melissa Morgan Fine Art gallery.

Other sculptures are remnants of past Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival installations that have been preserved and sprinkled throughout the area, including Mismo, a large-scale paisley installation by Enriquez that stood out prominently during Coachella in 2019. The jaw-dropping Etherea sculpture by Italian sculptor Edoardo Tresoldi, meanwhile, creates an optical illusion from the wire mesh material it’s made of can be found at the corner of Cesar Chavez and Sixth Street in Coachella.

Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs
Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs
Courtesy of Greater Palm Springs

Find abstract art and “the last free place in America”

From Coachella, head south toward Bombay Beach, a small washed up town that lies along the Salton Sea and is actually 223 feet below sea level. You’ll find abstract pieces like the interactive Lodestar by Randy Polumbo, a 50-foot military jet made with fabricated elements such as blown glass, crystal, mirror, and structural steel which appears to be taking a nosedive. The Bombay Beach Biennale is an art movement that uses the existing abandoned structures into an artist’s canvas. 

Further south, you’ll reach a seemingly deserted town with no signs called Slab City, also known as” the last free place in America.” The unofficial entrance to the remote town is Leonard Knight’s 50-foot colorful Salvation Mountain, a hillside structure that has been a popular spectacle for tourists. Keep driving and you’ll eventually come to East Jesus, a sculpture garden in the middle of nowhere constructed out of junk. 

“It’s actually registered with the California Association of Museums,” says Biller. Artists and creatives often visit the habitable community and add to the collection. “It’s a fun experience. Between downtown Coachella, Bombay Beach, and Salvation Mountain and East Jesus that’s a full day art experience.”Sign up here for our daily Thrillist email, get Next Flight Out for more travel coverage, and subscribe here for our YouTube channel to get your fix of the best in food/drink/fun.

Leila Najafi is a freelance travel writer in LA. Follow her adventures near and far on Instagram @LeilasList.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

Get the latest from Thrillist Australia delivered straight to your inbox, subscribe here.

Related

Our Best Stories, Delivered Daily
The best decision you'll make all day.