Travel

Once Upon a Time, This Arizona Pool Was a Hotspot For Hollywood Royalty

Welcome to Marilyn Monroe's favorite sunbathing spot.

Photo courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore
Photo courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore
Photo courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore

For a brief spell in Hollywood’s golden age, the hottest desert pool parties weren’t in Palm Springs, or even in California. Movie stars, sports icons, musicians, and politicians were dipping their toes in the Catalina Pool at the Arizona Biltmore

The crystal, palm-lined waters of the luxe resort’s pool have been enjoyed by presidents and Rat Packers alike. Marilyn Monroe-an expert on the subject-declared it her favorite spot to sunbathe. But the story of the hotel and its illustrious pool isn’t just a random piece of celebrity history: It’s essential to the history of Arizona’s now-thriving tourism industry.

Photo courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore
Photo courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore
Photo courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore

Opened in February 1929, the Biltmore was the passion project of the McArthur brothers, early champions of Phoenix’s untapped tourism potential. Having previously whisked visitors from cold-climate states for proto-glamping experiences aboard their tricked-out Wonder Bus tours, the hotel was the next logical step in establishing the cacti-laden land as a glam destination. 

Designed by Albert Chase McArthur-an architect inspired by former mentor Frank Lloyd Wright, who consulted-the hotel swung its doors open in grand fashion, with a three-day soiree catering to high-society revelers. But not long after the opulent opening-dubbed “the party of the decade” by press in Arizona and beyond-the stock market crashed and the brothers were forced to sell the hotel in 1930 to chewing-gum magnate William Wrigley Jr.According to former Arizona Biltmore historian Becky Blaine, among the first orders of business when the Wrigleys took over was the creation of the stunning Catalina Pool, named after the California island on which they resided. Ada Wrigley added flourishes to make it wholly unique, including canary yellow and navy blue art-deco mosaic tiles custom made by the Catalina Pottery and Tile Company. 

The Wrigleys used their influence to ensure the guest list was high-profile. Over four decades, staying at the hotel required an invitation, and the grounds were often crawling with famous baseball players. The Wrigleys-namesakes of Wrigley Field-owned the Chicago Cubs, and when athletes complained about the long commute to Catalina Island for training, the Biltmore became an ideal stopping point, with players hobnobbing around the hotel and splashing in the pool. (Blaine credits Wrigley with developing the first versions of spring training, still a tradition in Arizona).

Photo Courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore
Photo Courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore
Photo Courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore

Amid all the hotel’s ornate flourishes, the cabana-lined Catalina Pool was the place to be in Arizona, and played host to all types of events-including fashion shows and diving competitions-that brought out a star-studded crowd. Irving Berlin penned some of the holiday tune “White Christmas” while lounging poolside. Actor Clark Gable was photographed alongside Mr. Wrigley on the golf course. Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr., and Liza Minneli reportedly put on an impromptu show in the lobby. Every president since Herbert Hoover through George W. Bush has been a guest of the hotel. 

And while the resort has never found any documented history of Marilyn (or any of her aliases), actually staying at the Biltmore, Blaine said it’s likely that the Hollywood starlet was kind of a “pool crasher,” sneaking away from Downtown Phoenix’s Westward Ho after filming movies in the ‘50s.

Photo courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore
Photo courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore
Photo courtesy of the Arizona Biltmore

Today, more than 90 years since the Biltmore swung open its doors, the hotel remains a cornerstone of Phoenix’s now-thriving tourism industry and the gold standard of high-end luxury in the area. And much like its other notable features-towering sculptures, a massive Frank Lloyd Wright Ballroom, a Prohibition-era hidden speakeasy, and lush gardens-the pool remains immaculate, a sparkling lagoon with a backdrop of desert mountains. 

Only today, you needn’t be be a high-roller on a guest list, or a pool-crashing legend of the silver screen, to enjoy what we have on good authority to be some pretty spectacular sunbathing.

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 Lauren Topor Reichert is a Phoenix-based photographer and writer. Follow her travels around Arizona, and beyond, on Instagram.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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