Travel

Why I Traded My NYC Apartment for Sky-High Adventures in Ecuador

I had beef with a mountain.

Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander; DESIGN BY GRACE HAN FOR THRILLIST
Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander; DESIGN BY GRACE HAN FOR THRILLIST
Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander; DESIGN BY GRACE HAN FOR THRILLIST

Like so many when the pandemic hit, Adam Aleksander found himself unable to continue working in his chosen profession. But the experiential events designer had options: stay cooped up in his Manhattan apartment, or use this forced time off to check a few things off his bucket list-like conquering the Ecuadorian peak of Chimborazo. He had a score to settle: A year earlier, the stratovolcano had conquered him. 

Since last March, Aleksander has spent months at a time travelling through sparsely-populated locales: the Adirondacks, the forests of North Carolina, the national parks of Utah. And now the avid climber and mountaineer is back in the colonial mountain town of  Cuenca, Ecuador, (population 277,000) where for the past three months he’s been tackling mountains and taking Spanish and salsa dancing lessons. He hopes this new trend of slow travel continues post-pandemic, at least for him. And he has his sights set on Colombia next. As told to Vanita Salisbury.

It’s very expensive to be unemployed in New York. So I’ve been seeking alternatives, and finding new places to live and thrive. It’s been a forced sabbatical, but also it’s been a very healthy time where I’m able to get a lot of inspiration and fulfil some goals.

Cuenca is an expat city in the Andes. It’s a World Heritage Site-you’re walking down cobblestone streets and tiled sidewalks with historic churches everywhere. The people are very kind. They’re also far more serious about mask wearing and hand sanitizing than the United States.

I have three hobbies while I’m here. One of my big goals is to learn Spanish, so I’m studying three to four times a week. A private Spanish professor-a college professor-is ten dollars an hour. I’ve also been taking salsa dance classes and recently graduated to partner classes. I tell them, you guys are born with salsa in the body; I’m born knowing how to dance to Grateful Dead and Phish.

Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander
Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander
Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander

And there’s climbing. One year ago, almost to the day, I attempted Chimborazo, the highest peak in Ecuador, and failed. I didn’t have the fitness, or enough acclimatization. I was sold a climb without the company asking me these essential questions. I’d never failed at a physical activity before. It really got under my skin, festering like a wound.

This time I’ve been training since July, when I moved to the mountains of North Carolina. Training for a mountain is a combination of aerobic and anaerobic exercises: trail runs three to four times a week, strength endurance two times a week. Listening to Big Freedia made workouts much more fun.

Leading up to Chimborazo this time, I did several climbs gradually increasing elevation: 16,000 feet at Rumiñuai; 17,500 at Iliniza Norte; 19,500 for Cotopaxi; and finally, 20,500 feet at Chimborazo. I had a 63-year-old guide who has seen pretty much everything.
We started at night for Cotopaxi, and it’s the most beautiful climb. And you don’t realize that until you get to the top and the sun starts coming up. Coming down, you notice all these beautiful ice caverns.

And the horses. Cotopaxi is a large national park on a plateau that sits about 12,000 feet up, with llamas and thousands of wild horses. The llamas would be feeding and drinking from the lake, and the baby horses and their parents would be roaming around these huge plateaus. They would come up to me looking for carrots. But I had no carrots, and I realized it was a pay to play.

Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander
Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander
Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander

At Chimborazo, I had a lot of nervous energy because I was scared. I’d had only three hours of restless sleep, because you’re sleeping at 16,000 feet on a gravelly camp, and you have to wake up at like 11 p.m. I rallied: I made strong coffee, I ate some food, I made some mate de coca-tea made from cocaine leaves. It’s a common natural remedy for altitude sickness.

Chimborazo is a challenging mountain because there’s no place to stop. Most mountains have large rocks to hide behind and have a snack, or you go through these flat grottos where ice caves are surrounding you, but Chimborazo is just a very large, steep face with no place to sit down. You have to take your ice axe and carve a seat. And you have to be very careful. At any point in time, you could just fall through into some sort of crevasse.

After a while my insulated Camelbak froze, and the wind was cutting through my three pairs of gloves. At around five a.m., we reached the second-to-last summit. It was getting to peak coldness-about 15 degrees without the wind chill, zero degrees with-when a raging storm blew in.

Even though the highest summit was only like a two or three-hundred feet difference, it would have taken an hour to get there. As I was taking photos my guide looked at me and said, this storm is too bad, we need to turn around. And I was like good, I’m too tired anyway.

I think at a certain point you realize, it’s not about this goal of getting to the big summit, this macho goal to conquer things. You start climbing and you’re like oh, it’s about the enjoyment of the climb.

And I love the camaraderie. When you’re climbing or travelling, you see the same people in the same path. There were some Russian climbers from New York who were so fun to talk to. They were really into their boombox. Back at camp, they were DJing and dancing, very Russian-style.

Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander
Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander
Photo courtesy of Adam Aleksander

After the exertion of Chimborazo, I had to have a moment. It was like, I was working towards this goal for so many months-what’s next?

I took a trip to Baños, in the country. It’s a traveler’s town. You can do a dune buggy tour, you can go paragliding, you can do an Amazon tour. But they also have these wonderful volcanic hot springs. The water is legitimately sulfuric. It was brown, it smelled weird, and it was so hot. And you’re just soaking with everyone, including indigenous women and their mustachioed husbands. They have all these grandbabies around and I’m just hanging out with them.

After soaking in the hot baths you dip into cold plunge pools, and alternate. It was all about the back and forth contrast. I stayed in Baños for two nights and it was just pure joy. It was enough to revive anybody.

Get the latest from Thrillist Australia delivered straight to your inbox, subscribe here.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

Get the latest from Thrillist Australia delivered straight to your inbox, subscribe here.

Related

Our Best Stories, Delivered Daily
The best decision you'll make all day.