Travel

Hang Out in Florida's Most LGBTQIA+ Friendly Small Town

Take a weekend gaycation in Wilton Manors.

YES Market Media/Shutterstock
YES Market Media/Shutterstock
YES Market Media/Shutterstock

If you were asked to point to South Florida’s premier gayborhood on a map, where would your finger land? Key West? South Beach? Though they’re both technically island cities with a longstanding reputation for inclusiveness, there’s only one “Island City” in our book: Wilton Manors. While this picturesque pocket of Greater Fort Lauderdale is completely encircled by water-hence its official nickname-the surrounding canals don’t double as a moat-like barrier to protect its denizens from the outside world. Nope, not in Wilton Manors. This one of the most welcoming, open-minded communities in the country-and it’s been like that for decades. Wilton Manors was the first municipality in the state to elect an all-LGBTQIA+ city commission. There are also more same-sex couples that reside here than anywhere else in the United States (besides Provincetown, Massachusetts). But this year, as Wilton Manors celebrates 75 years of being a safe space for all identities, creeds, and cultures, it’s apparent that out-and-proud Floridians and their allies are still facing an uphill climb in securing equal rights. So, cruise up the coast-during Pride Month or any other time of the year-and you’ll discover why this wee island community is unlike any other in Florida or the rest of the US.

Wilton Manors Stonewall Pride Parade & Street Festival
Wilton Manors Stonewall Pride Parade & Street Festival
Wilton Manors Stonewall Pride Parade & Street Festival

Partake in one of Florida’s largest pride celebrations

Every June since 1999, Wilton Manors’ Stonewall Pride Parade & Street Festival has taken over The Drive to commemorate the pivotal Stonewall riots while celebrating inclusivity and LGBTQIA+ heritage. The festivities draw crowds upward of 40,000 revellers to the vibrant street fair and Twilight Parade which thrums with live music and entertainment. This year’s event boasted six stages and a whopping 16 bars along the route. (If South Floridians know how to do anything, they sure know how to throw an epic party.) With the state’s LGBTQIA+ community shrouded in uncertainty from political leaders, the positive impact of the Stonewall Pride Parade on Wilton Manors is much more than an economic boon. Don’t forget to check out the events calendar from the non-profit Pride Center at Equality Park, which hosts a slew of year-round activities, from creative symposiums to a beloved Saturday flea market flourishing with over 50 vendors.

Immerse yourself in the outdoors

With 15 parks certified by the National Wildlife Federation and thirteen miles of waterways teeming with wildlife, outdoor pursuits abound in Island City-on both the land and on the water. For the latter, rent a see-through “Crystal Clear” kayak or paddleboard from OTWaves Kayaks & More and cruise along the Middle River. Put your upper body strength to the test by circumnavigating the entirety of Wilton Manors along the seven-mile loop. Back in the 1890s, the area was settled by explorer William C. Collier, who planted an orange grove and traded with the local Seminole tribe. In his honour, they named the waterway “Colohatchee,” which lives on as the Colohatchee Park. Hit up the elevated boardwalk, which winds through a seven-acre swath of protected mangrove-a prime spot for birding. Alternatively, head to the Richardson Historic Park and Nature Preserve, which offers guided nature tours along its riverside trail and observation pier. The park is also home to an old-world Manor House and the Carriage House, the oldest structure in Wilton Manors originally built by its founder, E. J. Willingham.

Stonewall National Museum & Archives
Stonewall National Museum & Archives
Stonewall National Museum & Archives

Tour two of the world’s premier LGBTQIA+ museums

Just outside of Wilton Manors are two of the world’s foremost museums dedicated to queer history: The World AIDS Museum-the first-ever institution dedicated to the history of the HIV/AIDS epidemic-aims to mitigate the persisting stigma associated with the virus by sharing first-person accounts and ongoing educational programming to foster dialogue among the community. The museum’s 55-ton AIDS Memorial Quilt, constructed of more than 48,000 tribute panels to those who have passed, is so massive that it is rarely displayed in its entirety. In 2020, The Stonewall National Museum & Archives became the largest LGBTQIA+ museum in the United States when it relocated from Wilton Manors to the same building as the original The Stonewall library in Fort Lauderdale, today holding more than 28,000 materials related to the 1969 Stonewall riots in New York City.

Tulio's Tacos and Tequila Bar
Tulio’s Tacos and Tequila Bar
Tulio’s Tacos and Tequila Bar

Stroll Wilton Manors’ rainbow-flagged main drag

With more than 40 independent LGBTQIA+ businesses, Wilton Drive (“The Drive”) is a hub of queer entrepreneurship. The bulk of them is concentrated at The Shoppes at Wilton Manors, a canary yellow retail plaza packed with popular eateries like Tee Jay Thai Sushi, coffee joints like Java Boys, and trendy eyewear shops like Chic Optique. Further along The Drive are some of Wilton Manors’ most cherished culinary hotspots. Snag a table on the lush patio of perennial favourite Rosie’s Bar and Grill to enjoy a boozy brunch, or head to Tulio’s for epic tacos and tequila. For stellar European comfort food, there’s Le Patio (dubbed “The Tiniest Cutest Restaurant in South Florida” thanks to its pocket-sized footprint) and ethos Greek Bistro for authentic Mediterranean. To those with a sweet tooth: Don’t miss To The Moon Marketplace, a candy emporium stocked with over 13,000 (!) sweet treats-chocolates, gummies, and everything in between-from more than 60 countries. You’ll even find novelty confections like old-school penny candies that date back to 1806.

Rediscover your creative side

Artistry transcends disciplines in Wilton Manors, which has become a buzzing hive of creativity. Scope out the crop of boutique galleries along The Drive and in its periphery, like Gallery XO, which specializes in homoerotic art, and the nonprofit Art Gallery 21 at the Island City Cultural Center. Or visit local studios run by independent creatives like painter and sculptor Claudia Castillo and mixed-media artist Trey Opp, a.k.a. Topp Artist (both of whom can commission custom pieces). Craving a more hands-on experience? Book a ceramics workshop at Sculpture by Sylvie and manifest your clay masterpiece. Aesthetes will also encounter a slew of eclectic showrooms like blu Egg Interiors and Island City Traders to inspire their own home design projects.

Chill out in a breezy, bohemian urban oasis

Shaded under rows of Rainbow Eucalyptus trees in between mural-covered walls, The Yard-though you’ll still catch locals calling it by its former name, Eucalyptus Gardens-is a veritable sanctuary set away from the bustle of The Drive. With a farmers market, vintage boutiques, plant nurseries, and nearly a dozen eateries, this open-air shopping centre is the definition of a hidden gem. Tuck into The Alchemist Coffee to sip some of the best espresso drinks in Broward County, Voo La Voo Cafe for unpretentious French fare, or La Mexicana for top-notch tacos and heady margaritas served up with live music. If you’re on the hunt for some souvenirs, Lola’s Bazaar Art and Music (open only on the weekends) is a treasure trove of unique finds from handcrafted jewellery to vinyl records.

The Cabanas Guesthouse & Spa
The Cabanas Guesthouse & Spa
The Cabanas Guesthouse & Spa

Stay at a locally-owned (and queer-friendly) guesthouse

Wilton Manors is a brilliant choice for a day trip. But should you choose to spend the night, just know that big-named resorts and hotel chains are nowhere to be found (you’ll have to stay “off” the island for those). And hey-that’s all part of the charm. Instead, rest your head at one of the low-key guest houses that dot the island. The majority tends to cater to gay travellers, like the clothing-optional Cabanas Guesthouse & Spa and male-exclusive Ed Lugo Resort. Ritzier patrons will be delighted with the swanky digs at Casa Hermès, a former mansion kitted out with mod Italian furniture, while family travellers should opt for the Island Sands Inn. Look to Airbnb for a solid array of accommodations walkable to The Drive-that’s where you want to stay.

Island City Stage
Island City Stage
Island City Stage

Catch a show at an award-winning local theatre

Island City Stage was founded in 2012 by members of Greater Fort Lauderdale’s LGBTQIA+ community, and in the years since has garnered an exalted reputation as one of South Florida’s most acclaimed professional theatres. This small but mighty theatre company has capably tackled world premieres from up-and-coming talent and beloved classics written by celebrated playwrights such as Tennessee Williams. And while Island City Stage’s characterful productions overwhelmingly focus on aspects of the queer experience, any spectator can relate to common thread themes of love and loss, relationships, and individuality.

Hamburger Mary's Fort Lauderdale / Wilton Manors
Hamburger Mary’s Fort Lauderdale / Wilton Manors
Hamburger Mary’s Fort Lauderdale / Wilton Manors

Party all night with the boys

Little Wilton Manors goes big when it comes to nightlife. (Again, South Florida.) Naturally, the queer bars are where you can dive into all the action is-and boy, are there allll types of bars here. Without leaving The Drive, you can watch the game at Gym Sportsbar, sip a sophisticated cocktail on the patio at Drynk, or catch a raucous drag show at Hamburger Mary’s. Oh, and remember The Shoppes we mentioned earlier? That strip mall where you can grab a coffee, gorge on sashimi, and even get your eyes checked in one go? It shouldn’t surprise you that two of Island City’s hottest bars sit in the same plaza. At 25 years old, Georgie’s Alibi Monkey Bar is one of the oldest in South Florida. The legendary nightclub has four sections, including a full-service restaurant, so scarf down one of the award-winning burgers before hitting the dancefloor. Migrate to Hunters across the parking lot for even more nocturnal debauchery.

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Paul Jebara (@pawljebara) is a travel writer, content specialist, and polyglot based in New York City.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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