Travel

This Tourist Trap Is Transforming Into the Coolest Place to Visit on California’s Central Coast

The Danish-inspired tourist town of Solvang in Santa Barbara Wine Country has a new guard of great restaurants, bars, and things to do.

Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist

The best tourist traps pull the wool over your eyes, allowing you to sink into the experience and forget you’re a mark. At a decent tourist trap, you may never lose the awareness that you’re a rube, but you stop caring. And bad tourist traps plain suck, offering little and taking a lot, usually in the form of time, patience, and money. Over the eight decades that it has existed as such, Solvang Danish Town, a whole city built from tourist trap material, has slid slowly from the former categories into the latter-until now. This mostly dilapidated tourist town is suddenly cool again and one of the best places to visit in Santa Barbara wine country for food, drinks, and fun.

It may be hard to believe when you walk around the city, but the four creaky windmills, thatched roofs, and jaunty contrast-color balconies of Solvang are not Old World relics. They were built in the post-war era, often as facades over the top of existing structures. There was at one time a sizeable Danish community there, but they primarily built in California ranch styles; the town’s design was a kitschy affectation from the jump. There is some silly charm in it, especially if you’re the type who loves the New Orleans-themed parts of Disneyland or the aesthetic stylings of beat-up mini golf courses. But it has been a long time since anyone would call it trendy; the Danish royal family hasn’t even visited since 2011.

Slowly, though, while most people were rubbing their noses on the glass case in front of old kringles and posing with giant red clogs, new things started to open. A wave is building, changing the tenor of things in town and giving the area a sorely needed refresh. Now you can finish browsing the year-round Christmas store and head down the block for a Michelin Bib Gourmand-quality meal; let your family linger at the Hans Christen Andersen Museum while you step away for some craft beer; take the whole gang wine tasting at a fantastic local winery with a tasting room right in town; and so much more. Here are all of the best things to do in the revitalized Solvang.

Travel time:

2 hours 30 minutes from LA

Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist

If you don’t do anything else: Feed huge birds at Ostrich Land

This will sound wild considering the lede, but if you’re looking for something fun and a little off-beat to do, Ostrich Land is one tourist trap that’s actually worth it. Yes, the dozens of ostriches and emus are pretty gross, and yes, it smells pretty bad. Yes, it’s absolutely a tourist trap, and no, you never forget that fact. But there are so many large birds, and they’re so weird looking and huge and used to being fed by gawping humans-when else will you get this damn close to one? We all get to be rubes and marks every once in a while.

Fill your days:

Things to do outdoors in Solvang

Before you get down to the main business of the Santa Ynez Valley-food and wine-take a moment to enjoy one of the most beautiful places in California, Nojoqui Falls Park. The gorgeous oak woodland park spans 85 acres, with plenty of picnic tables and places to toss a blanket. The park’s central attraction, though, is the easy hike up to the falls. It’s a quick mile-long trail that hops back and forth across a lovely creek before it runs into the 80-foot waterfall, a mossy cascade of clear water down jagged rock.

Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist

Eat, drink, and sleep: 

Where to eat in Solvang

Any discussion of Solvang’s new guard has to start with Peasants Feast. The married couple ownership duo of chef Michael Cherney and general manager Sarah Cherney opened their dream restaurant at perhaps the worst possible time in recent history, April 1, 2020. But against all odds, they succeeded, and a visit to Peasants Feast immediately clarifies how they did-the food is spectacular, and the place is charming as hell. The daytime menu is devoted to sandwiches, with a few tacos, salads, appetizers, and a rotating specials board using fresh ingredients. They lean on interesting riffs on classics like Pastrami Smoked Salmon or Solvang Hot Chicken, and if you happen to catch a sandwich or taco made with local fish, don’t skip it.

Earlier this year, they introduced a dinner menu, which more than lives up to the lofty standard set by their lunch menu. Dishes are more composed and refined, but the energy remains California casual, friendly, and approachable. The menu shifts all the time, but early highlights include mainstays like a Pork Chop Schnitzel and an unorthodox and delicious Sunflower Seed Risotto.

But Peasant’s Feast isn’t the only excellent restaurant in town. Another pandemic opening has been pushing the scene forward: the modern Central Coast-style steakhouse Coast Range. Anything from their excellent grill is worth a try, and all of the steakhouse classics are well-executed, but don’t overlook their more adventurous and often rotating sides and appetizers. The Fritto Misto comes with Thai Chili Sauce and Furikake Aioli, the Creamed Corn comes with Jalapeño and Cotija, and the Ahi Tuna Crudo gets a hit of habanero mixed in with Yuzu Kosho. The attached Vaquero Bar is a treat, too, with a cocktail list divided into sections of takes on classics like Negronis, Mules, Martinis, Sours, and more.

Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist
Photo by Ben Mesirow for Thrillist

Where to drink in Solvang

If you want to enjoy Coast Range’s food in an even more casual setting, Draughtsmen Aleworks is just next door and has a special bar menu from the neighboring restaurant. You can get some stellar bar food, like a giant Housemade Pretzel, a Pastrami Burger, or a Brat Dog with housemade sauerkraut to go with Draughtsmen’s very solid beer. The brews run the stylistic gamut from a Rice Lager to an Imperial Russian Stout, but they lean on the lighter side of the alcohol by volume spectrum, hanging under 6% for the most part. It’s a lovely perspective on beer, a finer touch well suited to a long evening hanging out and playing games on their stylish and expansive patio.Of course, if you’re in the Santa Ynez Valley, it’s probably for the wine, which has long been the region’s major draw. There are a handful of tasting rooms right in town, but they got a particularly great new option last summer in Alma Rosa. The winery’s estate is a few miles west, in the Santa Rita Hills on the other side of the 101 freeway, on mostly north-facing slopes with a cool ocean breeze. The wines are elegant expressions, primarily focused on the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that grow so well in Santa Barbara Wine Country, with some other Rhone varietals and some rosé and sparkling wines, too. The tasting room is a refreshing break from the Old World architecture in the rest of town, modern with lots of glass and several fire pits in a pleasant courtyard space. And it doesn’t hurt that the excellent Via Gelateria is right next door.

Morning drinkers have choices too-Good Seed Coffee Boutique opened a few years ago with an outstanding espresso drink program featuring their own beans. They also have a selection of organic baked goods and a particularly excellent selection of long-fermented heritage-grain sourdough bread, which they serve as toast or as whole loaves available for pre-order. It sounds a little bit like hipster mad libs, but it’s more than worth the eye roll.

Photo by David Tsay, courtesy of The Landsby
Photo by David Tsay, courtesy of The Landsby
Photo by David Tsay, courtesy of The Landsby

Where to stay in Solvang

The town is rife with condos, many of which are available for rent through your app of choice, and the area is also awash with adequate hotels and motels, most of which carry the standard Danish facade over totally average and mostly acceptable interiors.

But in its class, The Landsby is a rare standout. They’ve taken the Scandinavian thought but pushed it toward minimalist modern design, with blonde wood and white walls, dark accents, and a big outdoor courtyard. Mad & Vin, their in-house restaurant, is better than decent, and the lobby bar stays open until 11 pm on weekends-one of the later last calls in the sleepy town. And if that’s still not enough, the for-purchase bottle of wine they cleverly stock in the mini bar is solid and generally reasonably priced.

And more hotel renovations are underway-in the next couple of years, the lodging options could look very different.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Ben Mesirow is a Staff Writer at Thrillist.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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