Travel

The Hottest Tour in Las Vegas Has One Catch-You Have to Leave Your Cell Phone at Home

The legacy of the Atomic Age is alive and well in the Nevada Desert.

Flickr/Nevada National Security Site
Flickr/Nevada National Security Site

Flickr/Nevada National Security Site

A tour of the Nevada National Security Site doesn’t begin with a champagne toast. It gets underway with a sip of water and a warning to drink at least one full bottle during the day-long excursion. It’s hot out there in the desert, especially when exploring the rugged and vast landscape that the US Department of Energy used to test more than a thousand nuclear weapons during the Cold War.

Yet it’s only 65 miles northwest of Las Vegas. In a town that includes an Adele residency and Formula 1 grandstands, visits to the Nevada National Security Site (NNSS) are among the hottest tickets around, offered to the general public just once a month.

Tours for the first half of 2024 (January 22, February 5, March 11, April 8, May 6, and June 3) are up for grabs when an online registration link goes live Monday, August 28, at 10 am Pacific Time. The good news is that they’re free. (The US military is more about spending money than accepting it.) The bad news is that they get snatched up almost instantly. If you miss out, those with memberships at the Atomic Museum get a crack at less competitive VIP tours three times a year, so consider signing up.

The museum is actually where the tour begins, ushering about 50 participants aboard a single bus for the drive out of town. No cell phones or cameras are allowed. Everyone is required to wear long pants and closed-toe shoes. This isn’t the Grand Canyon. Yes, you’re a tourist, but also an official guest of the US government. You’ll wear a badge the entire time, taking it off only when taking part in one of four group photo moments.

After passing a security check at the main gate, the bus enters Mercury. Call it a town, village, or military base. It’s basically a combination of all three and the largest sign of civilization on the site, yet still extremely small and quiet. The “hot spots” are the post office and a cafeteria attached to a steakhouse (officially a “designated shelter-in-place area”). It’s more of a special event space than a real restaurant, although the displayed prices for New York Strips under $25 are a nice change of pace from Vegas. Dinner isn’t included on the tour, but there’s a choice of subs, chips, and cookies for lunch at a glorified conference room dubbed the “Bistro.”

Most of your day is spent on the bus, covering up to 250 miles from beginning to end. It’s never boring with a historic point-of-interest perpetually on the horizon to capture your attention. Otherwise, you may spot antelopes, burros, coyotes, or wild horses. After all, it was their land long before the military moved in.

Photo courtesy of the Las Vegas News Bureau
Photo courtesy of the Las Vegas News Bureau
Photo courtesy of the Las Vegas News Bureau

Formerly known as the Nevada Test Site, the 1,350-square-mile space saw 1,054 nuclear weapons tests between 1951 and 1992 on seized land across the Marshall Islands, Kiribati, Northern Paiute, and Western Shoshone lands in Nevada. A hundred of them were “atmospheric,” which means they erupted above ground with mushroom clouds visible from Las Vegas. The phenomenon ushered in the Atomic Age with viewing parties at hotels like the Fremont, Binion’s, and Desert Inn. Tests often occurred right before dawn, prompting spectators to party all night in anticipation with “atomic cocktails.” Mushroom clouds became synonymous with Sin City culture, appearing on billboards, postcards, and even on the cover of Las Vegas High School’s 1953 yearbook. (Go Wildcats!) A Copa Girl from the Sands was famously photographed in an outfit that resembled an atomic blast, but contrary to popular myth, there was never a Miss Atomic Bomb beauty pageant.

The era is documented throughout the Nevada National Security Site with ghost town qualities in various pockets. Frenchman Flat, a dry lake bed where the site’s first nuclear weapons detonation took place, is especially poignant. The bus pulls over near remnants of a concrete bridge, built just to see how such a structure could withstand the blast. (Answer: Not well. Most of the top was blown off.) Various bunkers and “hotel rooms” were also built to gauge the power of the explosions. An assortment of nuts and bolts, tossed around by the wind and scattered throughout the dirt are relics of a different time.

A pair of two-story homes–one brick, one wood–are more ominous than any haunted house, leftover from a town constructed with the sole purpose of seeing how it would respond to nuclear might. They were fully built, furnished, and stocked with groceries to match the style of the mid-1950s, complete with dummies dressed in JCPenny clothing. It’s amazing how well these two houses resisted the 29-kiloton blast from a little more than 7,000 feet away. (Other structures weren’t as lucky.) The tour pulls over by the wood home, which had its paint scorched off. The stone chimney shifted, too, but it’s still standing. Ground Zero is now a staged disaster site (with a plane and railroad wreckage) to train first responders in an environment with still-detectable traces of low-level radioactivity.

Flickr/Nevada National Security Site
Flickr/Nevada National Security Site
Flickr/Nevada National Security Site

In case you’re wondering, tourists don’t have to worry about this stuff. According to staff, the levels of radioactivity would merely add up to two chest X-rays if you hung out in contaminated areas for an entire year without leaving.

For many visitors, the Sedan Crater is the main event of the tour. Created by an underground blast that displaced more than 12 million tons of earth, it’s the largest human-made crater in the United States, stretching 1,280 feet wide and 320 feet deep. It was part of the Plowshare Program, which aimed to show that nuclear detonations could be used for construction, mining, and other purposes that had nothing to do with war. By this point, you’ve gotten used to seeing rows of smaller craters scattered throughout the site, but the Sedan Crater is unusually impressive.

Other glimpses into the past include rickety wooden benches used by officials to view detonations, an abandoned drill yard with equipment untouched since 1992, and Icecap–the site of an unfinished underground nuclear test, still surrounded by a 152-foot tower that could disassemble into six pieces for reuse in additional tests. It’s now preserved in place and enhanced as a museum of sorts, making it one of the few stops on the tour that actively embraces its role as an attraction. Others simply occupy their moment in history, subject to the whims of neglect and the burden of outlasting an original purpose.

Photo courtesy of the Atomic Museum
Photo courtesy of the Atomic Museum
Photo courtesy of the Atomic Museum

The Nevada National Security Site remains active today, playing a vital role in the security and management of the nuclear weapons stockpile and testing more conventional firepower at BEEF (Big Explosives Experimental Facility). At various points, the tour guide may point out an abandoned test aircraft alongside a mountain or an old subway car used to research the effects of a backpack explosive. These guys are up to all sorts of stuff. Then again, you’re just a mountain range away from the always-mysterious AREA 51, and the highway leading to the site passes by Creech Air Force Base, where drones routinely take flight. What you’re allowed to see only scratches the surface of what’s happening in the Nevada desert.

The Atomic Museum (formerly the National Atomic Testing Museum) is far less secretive and a worthy companion piece to any tour at the Nevada National Security Site. Exhibits go in-depth on fascinating topics about the site itself, from a partnership with NASA that experimented with nuclear-powered rocket engines to a rare moment of Glasnost-era diplomacy when Soviet officials visited Nevada to see what the operation was all about. There’s even a 4D theater that recreates a nuclear weapons test, complete with wind, light, and the rumble of a shockwave. It’s the closest thing to reliving what it was like at the old Nevada Test Site during the Atomic Age, a time of uncertainty when the balance between global politics and scientific ingenuity was nearly as delicate as splitting an atom.Want more Thrillist? Follow us on InstagramTikTokTwitterFacebookPinterest, and YouTube.

Rob Kachelriess is a full-time freelance writer who covers travel, dining, entertainment, and other fun stuff for Thrillist. He’s based in Las Vegas but enjoys exploring destinations throughout the world, especially in the Southwest United States. Otherwise, he’s happy to hang out at home with his wife Mary and their family of doggies. Follow him on Twitter @rkachelriess.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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