Fall has arrived, with all of the pumpkin spice-flavoured items, cozy sweaters, and signature changing colours that make us eager to leave summer (and its intense heat) behind. While Northern Nevada tends to steal all the fall colour thunder, with beautiful destinations like the Ruby Mountains (AKA the Swiss Alps of Nevada) and Lake Tahoe putting on the kind of spectacular displays you’d expect from high-altitude climates, it’s worth noting that there are plenty of leap-peeping opportunities in Southern and Central Nevada, too. High-altitude mountains and wilderness areas abound, as do naturally occurring springs that produce genuine desert oases filled with wetlands and lush vegetation. And these areas are full of trees, grasses, and flowering bushes that put on quite the technicolour display from late summer through late fall, all within just a few hours’ drive from Las Vegas. Here’s where to find them.
Travel time from Las Vegas: 45 minutes
Mount Charleston, a wilderness area located within the Spring Mountains about 40 miles north of Las Vegas, is known as a “sky island” because of its high elevation and relative isolation from the drastically different lowland desert that surrounds it. That high elevation means that at any time of the year it’s about 20 degrees cooler on Mount Charleston than in Las Vegas, making it a welcome escape from the scorching summers. That also means that the climate is drastically different up there: instead of cacti and palm trees you get evergreens and aspen groves.
The most popular and scenic areas of Mount Charleston are located at the end of the roads that lead up to Kyle Canyon (to the south) and Lee Canyon (to the north), as well as Deer Creek Road, which links them. These areas are all high elevation, about 7,500 to 8,600 feet at the most popular trailheads, campsites, and picnic areas (though if you really want high elevation and cold, thin mountain air, the summit of Charleston Peak is just shy of 12,000 feet). There are four true seasons on Mount Charleston-it even snows enough that there’s a ski resort in Lee Canyon, and fall is really something special.
On the Kyle Canyon side, you’ll see streaks of golden yellow and vibrant orange against the dark green of the pine-covered slopes, and the display of colours that the quaking aspens along the South Loop Trail put on is spectacular-especially now that the baby aspens have gained quite a bit of height since a 2013 wildfire burned the entire area. Hike the three-mile Cathedral Rock trail (easily the most popular of all Mount Charleston hikes) through groves of aspens and enjoy the view from the summit where you’ll see more glowing groves from high above.
Also, stop and take a listen: in the fall, when the leaves are dry and about to drop, the leaves on these aspens “quake” with the slightest breeze and make a tinkling sound like windchimes. You can also skip Cathedral Rock and keep hiking along the South Loop trail towards Griffith Peak, where the dramatic slopes are covered in tinkling aspens in a blaze of hues ranging from golden to scarlet.
Over on the Lee Canyon side, smaller groves of aspens can be found around the ski resort. Park at the Upper Bristlecone Trailhead and head left (southwest) on the trail; it only takes a few minutes of hiking uphill before you start to see the aspens. You can also take a scenic chair ride overlooking the aspen groves at the ski resort, offered seven days a week from 10 am to 6 pm.
And no matter which canyon you decide to visit, both involve long drives up the mountain lined with puffy yellow rabbitbrush, which starts its mustard-yellow bloom in early September. But if you want to see the fall colours on Mount Charleston, you need to hurry: Because of the high elevation, leaves start turning as early as late August and reach peak by late September and early October. It gets cold quickly up there, and it’s not uncommon for Mount Charleston to already be covered in snow before Halloween.
Travel time from Las Vegas: 4 hours 30 minutes
With sparkling blue-green alpine lakes surrounded by jagged, silvery-grey peaks and open fields where you’ll almost always see deer grazing in the golden hours, the Alpine Lakes Trail might sound like something straight out of a classic Disney movie. And, yeah, it is kind of magical! And equally haunting: this portion of Great Basin at the end of the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive starts at an elevation just shy of 10,000 feet, and the area is full of giant gnarled, twisted bristlecone pines that live for thousands of years in the harshest of climates.
But before you get to the lakes and the deer and the twisted Snow White pines and the dramatic peaks, you’ll pass through a grove of fiery aspens. In fact, once you pass the Upper Lehman Creek Campground you’ll start to see the blazing colours of the aspens along the 12-mile Scenic Drive. But take note: due to the high elevation, fall colours start very early in the season, around mid-September, and the Scenic Drive closes for the season once it starts to snow.
But even if you missed the colour display in the higher reaches of the park, the lower elevations have plenty to show off. At the much lower elevation of around 5,300 feet along Snake Creek Road, you can enjoy a beautiful display of colours in relative isolation: Snake Creek is about 13 miles of unpaved road that accesses Snake Creek Canyon and multiple primitive campgrounds surrounded by poplars, aspen groves, and limestone cliffs. Another option is the 5.5-mile Baker Creek Road, a well-maintained gravel road that provides access to the Grey Cliffs and Baker Creek Campgrounds as well as the trail to Johnson Lake.
The hike to Johnson Lake meanders through groves of tall, reedy aspens interspersed in sunny meadows and thicker groves of wind-bent aspens along steep slopes, all ablaze with colour in the fall. Since this is at a much lower elevation, you can catch the colours here well into October. And be sure to try some of the nuts from the Pinyon Pines, which are also ready for picking in the fall.
Travel time from Las Vegas: 4 hours
This whole area of Eastern Nevada (including Great Basin) has prominent aspen groves, but arguably one of the best places to see them in all their fall glory is at Cave Lake State Park, just 20 minutes outside of the fast-growing small town of Ely.
Cave Lake is a 32-acre reservoir surrounded by pine-covered slopes. While shoreline access is currently closed due to construction, you can still enjoy the extensive network of hiking and mountain biking paths that run through the park and all throughout Ely, wandering through forests of glowing gold aspens. You can also still enjoy the view of the lake from the Cave Lake Overlook Loop trail and the Lakeview Campground, where you’ll catch shocks of brilliant gold from the stands of aspen along the shore, as well as amber-hued marsh grass and the puffy yellow flowers of the fall-blooming rabbitbrush.
You can also take in the fall colours throughout the greater Ely area along the Schell Creek Range by driving along the 38-mile Success Loop Scenic Drive, which is full of scenic views and travels right past Cave Lake. A portion of the road is well-graded gravel, but stick it out: it’s along this section where aspens line the quiet road for an explosion of gold, bronze, and scarlet. Catch the colours here late September and early October.
Travel time from Las Vegas: 2 hours 20 minutes (to Caliente)
This area of Southeastern Nevada is home to the largest collection of Nevada State Parks, a dense cluster of state treasures all within easy driving distance of each other. Two of those parks offer unique settings to enjoy some fall colours and are located on either side of the 21-mile Rainbow Canyon Scenic Drive, which follows the mainline of the Union Pacific Railroad (stop by the Spanish Mission-style railroad depot built in 1905 before leaving Caliente).
Starting in the historic city of Caliente at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon, drive south to your first stop: Kershaw-Ryan State Park. Kershaw-Ryan is a verdant oasis, thanks to the flow of water from natural springs and weeping rocks in the surrounding canyon walls up to 700 feet tall. The manicured vegetation includes white oaks, willows, cottonwoods, locust trees, fruit trees, wild grapevines, and Virginia red creepers, which create a display of vibrant emerald green, cheerful pale yellow, glowing gold, glints of tawny and bronze, and streaks of deep blood red in the fall.
From Kershaw-Ryan you’ll continue driving south, passing by colourful red rock, limestone, and towering walls of basalt, as well as dense groves of cottonwood trees that line the full length of the Meadow Valley Wash in shades of bright yellow, orange, and gold in the fall.
On the other end of the Scenic Drive is the ghost town of Elgin, home to the Elgin Schoolhouse State Historic Park. This one-room schoolhouse was the place where several generations of children were taught over 40 years in this former railroad town. If you’re lucky you might catch a spot of colour here, too.
The best time to catch fall colours in Rainbow Canyon is mid-October to mid-November.
Travel time from Las Vegas: 1 hour 30 minutes
Although it’s a lesser-known area located on the eastern edge of Death Valley right on the California border, Ash Meadows is an internationally recognized wetland of huge significance, with nearly 30 species of plants and animals that don’t exist anywhere else in the world. The Devils Hole is located in this part of the Amargosa Valley, home to an ancient, endangered species of pupfish, which have been isolated in this location for 10,000-20,000 years. The Devils Hole cavern is over 500 feet deep and remains largely a mystery: the bottom has never been mapped.
Another natural oasis in the desert are the hot springs of Ash Meadows that feed the lush wetlands, but take note: this is a wildlife refuge and these hot springs are not for bathing. Still, visitors can enjoy the crystal-clear turquoise waters of the springs and the glowing gold and orange of the ash trees for which this area was named, starting in mid-October and running into early November, which is also the perfect time of year to visit Death Valley when the temperatures have cooled off significantly.
Travel time from Las Vegas: 1 hour 20 minutes
Yet another lesser-known desert oasis less than 90 minutes from the city, Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge is an essential stopover for migratory birds, with lush, spring-fed wetlands that include lakes, marshes, and wet meadows, as well as tall cottonwood and poplar trees along the shorelines that glow golden and orange in the fall. Tall marsh grasses also turn gold and amber, and if you happen to catch it in the right light, the whole place looks ablaze in a glowing red. Catch the colours late October and early November.
Travel time from Las Vegas: 25-minute drive from Downtown
Floyd Lamb Park is located at Tule Springs, a wellspring in the desert with several small lakes and lush vegetation, teeming with waterfowl as well as brilliant, jewel-toned peacocks known to strut around the parking lot and throughout the park.
This 680-acre city park is home to the Las Vegas State Tree Nursery, which produces more than 100,000 plants from 100 species annually, as well as Tule Springs Ranch, which is on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.
This park features stands of oak and cottonwood trees that grow along the shores of the four lakes, which turn deep, vibrant shades of yellow and orange in the fall. Because this is Las Vegas (where the elevation is low and the temperatures are high), these colours come late in the season, usually late October and early November.
Travel time from Las Vegas: 20 minutes
Red Rock Canyon, the world-famous climbing destination known for its otherworldly sandstone formations and towering walls, is maybe not the first place you would think that would have fall colours, but there are indeed some trees in Red Rock that do change colour with the seasons. Ash trees and oaks turn deep shades of gold and orange, and while these aren’t dense groves of fiery foliage, the occasional blaze of gold against the rust-coloured backdrop of Red Rock will still catch your breath and have you grabbing for your phone.
There are a few areas within Red Rock where you can catch some brilliant colours hidden by the imposing canyon walls, but Pine Creek and Oak Creek canyons will offer the most payoff for your hiking efforts. And there will most certainly be some effort-the approach to both canyons through open desert is just the start. Seeing the good stuff in these canyons requires some technical scrambling and boulder-hopping of varying difficulty without an obvious trail to follow (and it can get really technical, and really gnarly, really quickly if you’re not careful-just remember what goes up must come down).
The Calico Basin on the other side of Red Rock also offers some errant splashes of fall colours amid the dramatic red Aztec sandstone. If you plan to go leaf-peeping in Red Rock, you’ll have your best chances mid-to-late October, possibly into early November.
Downtown Las Vegas
Distance from Las Vegas: None! You’re already here!
If you play your cards right, you can enjoy fall colours in and around Las Vegas from late August all the way into December. This may come as a huge shock to some, but the City of Las Vegas actually has a sizable urban forest, much bigger than you might think. If you tour some of the older neighbourhoods downtown, you’ll find an impressive canopy of mature trees-a variety of ash trees, bottle trees, cottonwoods, magnolia, palo verde, fig, and pomegranate, in addition to the many kinds of palm trees. Some have leaves that change colours noticeably in the fall, while others are a little more subtle or just drop their leaves without the display.
The city has been making a lot of efforts to increase the tree canopy over the last several years, with plans to plant 60,000 trees over the next 30 years to combat the “heat island” effect (a phenomenon experienced in urban environments with a lot of concrete and asphalt), as well as beautification projects that have seen trees added to the streetscapes of downtown.
Which brings us to DTLV in December, where Chinese Pistache trees have been planted along Main Street and Las Vegas Boulevard that turn a beautiful ruby red in the fall. Their bold streaks of colour pop against the concrete-laden urban surroundings and give us desert-dwellers a nice fall fix late into the season. Chinese Pistache is known as a late colour-bloomer to begin with, and in Las Vegas, where the heat is intense all through September and “fall” gets a much later start, these trees don’t don their fall fashion until it’s very nearly winter.
Nicole Rupersburg is a freelance writer covering food, travel, arts, culture, and what-have-you. She winters in Las Vegas and summers in Detroit, as does anybody who’s anybody. Her favourite activities include drinking beer and quoting Fight Club.
You can’t be all things to all people. Yet a new Italian restaurant strikes an intriguing balance between authenticity and inventive touches while helping to shape the identity of a new community in the booming Southwest Valley of Las Vegas.
Basilico Ristorante Italiano is now open at Evora, a master-planned apartment development still under construction that won’t be finished for at least five years. The 160-seat restaurant follows the vision of chef Francesco Di Caudo, a Sicily native who draws on his heritage and experience throughout Italy to build a compelling menu based on traditional techniques and modern ingenuity.
“I come from a country where farm-to-table is nothing new,” says Di Caudio, while emphasizing the importance of ingredient sourcing and simple, straightforward flavor combinations.
Just look at the appetizers. Americans are used to eggplant parmesan that’s breaded and fried without restraint. Di Caudo sticks to a traditional Sicilian recipe with the vegetable sliced thin, sizzled in a pan, and layered with tomato and basil. No mozzarella. On the other hand, the Smoked Cigar is destined to be a signature showstopper. Duck, foie gras, and porcini mushrooms are packed inside a thin, cracker-like shell, presented in a box, and dipped into a glass ashtray. The “ash” in the centre is a black sesame and truffle mix. Don’t be shy about double dipping.
The risotto is bound to be another conversation piece. The recipe uses Carnaroli rice, a starchy grain from North Italy that produces a creamy texture, balancing the saltiness of a parmesan broth with a sweet splash of chestnut honey. The real surprise is the inclusion of Lavazza espresso, manipulated to crackle in your mouth like Pop Rocks candy.
All pastas are made in-house, from a parsnip cavatelli to a lamb and thyme tortellini in a broth filtered from braised prosciutto. Some dishes have a subtle Asian influence, including a hamachi crudo with pomelo (similar to yuzu), Hokkaido scallops with oxtail, and a planned octopus braised in dashi. The flavours come to life inside a sharp, contemporary dining room with deep red chairs and stone, wood, and marble touches. The wine collection is dominated by Italian labels, with a few California and Oregon picks thrown in to round out the list. Bottles are on display near the front entrance and inside illuminated square shelves. “It looks like a fancy restaurant, but when you sit down, I want you to have fun,” adds Di Caudio.
The bar is the heart of the restaurant, ready to serve up to 16 people inside and dozens more via accordion-style windows that open wide to a covered patio. The outdoor space, temperature-controlled with overhead fans and heaters, effectively extends Evora’s open-air plaza with dramatic water and fire features. It’s a natural spot for tastings and special events with a covered stage for live music. Evora is rolling out in four phases, with the first 342 apartments ready by fall. There could be as many as 1,400 when it’s all said and done. Rent begins at around $1,800 for studios and one-bedroom units and goes up to $4,000 for two-story top-floor residences with a loft and Strip views. The community will include swimming pools, pickleball courts, a putting green, a dog park, firepits, EV charging stations, and pavilions equipped with audio and video features.
“Basilico matches the demographic for our apartments,” says Danny Sorge of Digital Desert Development, the company behind the community. “The term ‘youthful sophistication’ has been thrown around about the restaurant and Evora as a whole. It brings something new to the area.”
The development follows a deliberate strategy to have the commercial tenants in place before the first residents move in, occupying a stand-alone building that strikes a commanding presence on the corner of Patrick Lane and Buffalo Drive. Lemon Tree Cafe & Market is already open as a European-style grocery store with plenty of room to sit down with a sandwich and glass of wine. Keep your eyes peeled for Taps & Barrels (a self-service beer hall), Tachi Ramen, and EVOQ hair salon in the months ahead, with more businesses to come. The timing couldn’t be better. The Southwest Valley is on fire right now, with the Durango hotel and casino and UnCommons mixed-use development taking shape as new attractions in 2023. The Bend, a long-promised shopping and dining district, has been in a holding pattern for years but holds promise in an area where everything is getting bigger and better.
Meanwhile, the team behind Evora is staking a claim with Di Caudio running the kitchen at Basilico. The chef’s recent collaboration with Chef Oscar Amador helped Anima by EDO score a recent James Beard Award nomination and reputation as one of the best new restaurants in Las Vegas. Di Caudio first came to Las Vegas to work at Zeffirino at the Grand Canal Shoppes-a gig he expected to last about six months before returning home. Instead, he stuck around and continued to build his reputation at culinary destinations like Sinatra at the Wynn and Ferraro’s off the Strip.
Ultimately, Basilico will be a restaurant to keep an eye on as it develops under Di Caudio’s guidance. The menu will shift and evolve based on the chef’s preferences and the availability of seasonal ingredients. Di Caudio is also planning a smaller menu and social hour for the bar area and a reasonably priced tasting menu with around 10 dishes served family style.
Rob Kachelriess has been writing about Las Vegas in Thrillist for more than nine years. In addition, his work has appeared in Travel + Leisure, Leafly, Supercall, Modern Luxury, and Luxury Estates International’s seasonal publication. Follow him on Twitter @rkachelriess.